20 Most Recent Moen & One Handle Tub & Shower Faucet - Page 7 Questions & Answers

The faucet has a cartridge that is dirty or bad. Turn off water to the house and remove the cartridge. Take it to Lowes or Home Depot and get another replacement. follow the instructions in the package to the tee.

The old cartridge easily pulls out after you pull out on a clip on the top of the internal assembly. Just take the handle off, slip out the chrome sleeve and remove the clip. The cartridge will pull out with minimal force.

Then head to the store!

the trimout escutcheons should handle 1/2 inch with no issue, valve function will not be impaired.

its because that model usually when u pull for the shower is not properly connected. You will have to remove handle and coverplate, then shine flashlight down to see what is happening when pulling rod on tub spout for shower. Usually its broken or bent and just needs new one installed. It cost me 2 buck for new shower rod. Directions u can get free from Moen with free lifetime parts.

you need a new tub spout with pop-up diverter. you can get one at any hardware store with a good plumbing selection. use Teflon tape on the male threads. tighten snugly only. if you must use a pipe wrench to get it perfectly straight, wrap a rag around the spout so you don't mar the finish.

were there any thread protectors inside the hot and cold inlets? sometimes they put Styrofoam pieces inside to keep debris out of the inlets and outlets. inspect inside of valve body through inlet holes thoroughly

I believe this would be the cartridge behind the knob. Remove the knob and pull the cartridge out and do a little inspection. If you have hard water it is probably all fudged up. Change this part and your problem should be solved. Please rate! Thank you

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Try removing the handle, then the face plate. With a flashlight handy, check inside the wall around the valve to see if you see any leaks. Then, try the valve by pulling the stem (may need a plier to grab this). Keep checking inside the wall. Next, try the shower, and again watch in the hole you have. You may find that the connection(s) to the valve is/are leaking, particularly at the top of the valve where the shower pipe heads up the wall. Or, it may be that the shower head's arm is leaking somewhere above. If you only see water dripping down from above, try the flashlight with a small make-up mirror to see if you can see where it's coming from. Sometimes the pressure in the shower head builds up from the flow restrictor, or the head's spray holes may need cleaning out (try soaking the head in a solution of CLR [stands for Calcium, Lime, Rust] available at most home improvement/ hardware stores). Sometimes the shower arm (the bent 1/2" diameter pipe that the shower head mounts to) isn't fastened in tightly enough. A good trick to help here is to wrap the threads with teflon tape, then apply teflon paste also. Wrap the tape clockwise around the threads so that it doesn't unwrap when you screw the pipe back into the fitting in the wall. Also, make sure the threads in the fitting in the wall are cleaned out, and don't let any debris contaminate the new teflon paste as you slip it back through the hole in the wall. If you find that the pipe out of the top of the valve is leaking, I recommend you call the plumber. He/she can likely fix it without taking the wall apart.

This is a very simple fix. NOTE: This is for a Posi-temp model only!! First turn off the house water. Relieve the water pressure at a nearby sink. Then remove the handle from the faucet. Remove the black plastic piece, then the two white plastic pieces (these control how hot the water gets by controlling how far the handle turns), then the metal cover over the center piece of the valve. Once these are out of the way, there is a small metal clip that you can see that holds the cartridge in place sitting in a **** on the top of the center piece. Remove this carefully with a small straight edge screwdriver, taking care not to lose it. Then with a small pair of pliers, pulling on the center of the cartridge, pull straight out. Once the cartridge is completely out, turn it counter clock wise, 180 degrees and then reverse the process. The hot/cold will be in proper location now.
Now for an older style, simply take the handle off, turn the center portion of the cartridge 180 degrees counter clock wise and return the handle. Hot/cold will now be in their proper locations.
Good luck.

It sounds like the valve is a manufacture defect where the cartridge sits.Hope this helps.

Hi,
No trick but it does help to have the puller they make to remove the old cartridge...otherwise they are darn near impossible to remove...

heatman101

It sounds most likely to be a bad cartridge.

Hope this helps

Good for you taking on this project. The first thing I will start with, is if you are not comfortable soldering copper then I would stop and call in a plumber to install the shower. If you have soldered copper in the past and are comfortable doing so then please proceed. Give yourself 2 to 3 full days to complete the project. You will need: Plumbing permit, available from your local munucipality. It will need to be inspected after the work is completed. Solder, solder flux and propane torch Heavy suede work gloves Water Spray bottle Pipe wrench Safety Glasses Hacksaw Deburring tool for copper pipe Emery cloth Tape measure Screw driver or screw gun Mounting Screws Old blankets 5 gallon pail 1/2" Copper pipe and fittings To begin we will have to uninstall the old shower. I find it helps to take photographs of the existing system so that you can see how the new one should go back together in case you get stuck halfway through the project and cannot see how to finish it off correctly. If you can access the shower from the other side of the wall, great. If not you will need to remove the shower surround or tile on the end wall where the plumbing is. Be sure to protect the tub with an old comforter or something to keep the tub from getting scratched up during construction. Before removing the old shower be sure to locate the shut off valves and close them. Turn both hot and cold on in the shower to remove any water pressure in the lines. Disassemble all the trim pieces of the old shower including the tub spout, handles, diverter and shower head. Take measurements of the existing piping to assist you when it comes time to cut and assemble the new copper. Do not reuse any of the old fittings. They will be very difficult to solder and new ones are very cheap. You should have 2 copper risers coming out of the floor, one cold, one hot. Cut them approx 12" above the floor. Repeat the same process for the tub spout and the shower riser. With all 4 pipes cut you can now remove the brass manifold from the 2X4 blocking. Disassemble the shower flange pipe from the copper shower riser. You should now have just the cut copper risers coming out of the floor. Use the deburring tool to clean the sharp edges where you cut the risers. This will aid in soldering the new pipe in and avoid you cutting yourself on the sharp copper while you work. To be continued.

Now that everything is apart it is time to cut all the copper to proper size and mount the brass manifold on the blocking within the wall. Take a close look at the drawings on the instructions. The plastic piece that covers the brass manifold will need to be flush with the drywall so that when you install the escutcheon plate it is also flush with the drywall. Be sure to test fit all the plumbing before soldering to ensure. begin by soldering the fittings that will screw into the manifold. Once this is done begin reconnecting the plumbing system. Again I can't stress enough that if you are not comfortable or have experience soldering copper to bring in a licensed pro. Nothing worse than completing the job and finding its either not up to code or worse leaks and you have to back over the job. Good luck with your project and let me know if I can be of any further help. Sorry it took so long to finish this. I was out sick for about a week right after I completed the first part. Good luck.

Hi A leaky Moen faucet is likely due a faulty valve stem. The valve stem is located directly underneath the faucet handle and controls the mixing of hot and cold water for the user. To access the stem, first turn the water off at the supplies underneath the sink and bleed the line. Using an Allen wrench, loosen the mounting screw that holds the stem in place. On Moen faucets, this screw is either on the underside of the handle or beneath the plastic disk on the top side of the acrylic handle. Remove the handle and check the model number of the stem, which is printed on the top side of the stem. Purchase a replacement stem, which will come with a special valve wrench to assist in the removal of the stem. Use the wrench to pull the stem and insert the new part. Then, remount the handle and turn the water back on.
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Call plummer to have it replaced

Check for debris in shower head. Could be calcium or other mineral buildup. Has the water dept. done any recent repairs/upgrades to water meter or mains? Sometimes this can loosen buildup in pipes & send it through the valve itself thus lowering pressure or stopping completely.

need to adjust anti-scold when unit shipped is set for cold if u have install paperwork that has info on how to adjust if not remove handle and on valve stem will see blue and red plastic clips slid them forward and adjust till hot water is adjusted to liking