Question about 2002 Honda CR 250 R

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My front suspension is locked up, any suggestions? i loosened the axle and the hardness is all the way down on the forks and it still won't even budge

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Is it the forks or wheel? if forks spray with wd 40, if wheel probably bearing siezed

Posted on Jul 10, 2011

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98 W/Glide forks out of alignment how do I straighten them?


Hi, Max if your front forks are only twisted and not bent they can be realigned, start by jacking the bike up so the front wheel is off the ground; a half-inch or so will do it.
If the forks have been removed from the bike:
1. Set the fork height in the upper clamp, and then tighten the pinch bolts in 3 equal stages to the proper torque. If you're not convinced that the heights are equal, slip the axle into place. If it doesn't glide smoothly through the forks, one leg is higher than the other, so readjust them until the axle slides through them with little or no effort.
2. Install the front fender but don't tighten the bolts.
3. Install the front wheel and axle. If the axle threads into the fork, thread it in loosely, if it uses a nut, just snug the nut down by hand. Do not tighten the axle pinch bolts.
4. Spin the wheel as fast as you can and abruptly pull on the brake lever. Holding the brake lever on, tighten the front axle.
5. Lower the bike onto the ground, and, while holding the front brake, gently pump the forks a few times. You did remember to tighten those upper pinch bolts, didn't you?
6. Tighten the lower clamp's pinch bolts in 3 equal stages, followed by the axle pinch bolts to the proper torque.
7. Tighten and torque the fender bolts.
If you suspect the forks are tweaked but don't want to go through the procedure above there is an easier way.
A. Support the weight of the bike on the jack or center stand, and loosen the front axle.
B. Remove the lock nut, and then try to slide the axle out of the fork. If it comes away with little effort, the forks are in alignment. If the axle has to be pounded out, it's a safe bet the forks are slightly tweaked or rusted.
C. To correct a slight misalignment, loosen everything but the top clamp pinch bolts (you don't have to remove anything), and start at Step #3. Anytime the wheel is removed, perform steps #4 and #5: that'll center the wheel in the fork and provide better suspension and braking action.
If your forks are aligned but your handlebars are twisted start by loosening the handlebar clamp bolts, then in a criss-cross pattern tighten the bolts in 3 equal stages to the proper torque. You will see that tightening a specific corner pulls the handle bar in a specific direction you can loosen and tighten the bolts on one clamp to achieve proper eyeball alignment, it may take a few attempts to get the desired results.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below and for more specific information or questions at no charge please feel free to contact me at xlch@mail.com. Good luck and have a nice day.
Harley Davidson Manuals Mark Workshop
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Nov 01, 2016 | Harley Davidson FXDWG Dyna Wide Glide...

1 Answer

Replace front wheel


Hi Anonymous, start by jacking up the front end of the bike until the front wheel is about 6 inches off the ground. Have an assistant hold the handle bars and steady the bike during this procedure. Safely with wood block the frame and front wheel, let the jack down until all the weight is on the blocks. Remove calipers from fork leg brackets and let hang or use bungie cords to hold them out of the way, do not pull in brake lever while calipers are off. Remove axle nut and washers, loosen right fork slider axle cap nuts and with a long screw driver or drift take a mallet and bang out axle from left to right. Remove block under wheel then remove the wheel. Replace in reverse order, tighten slider cap nuts then axle nut to 50-55 ft lbs. Loosen slider cap nuts to allow right fork to find its center then retighten cap nuts to 15 ft lbs. of torque. Re-install calipers and torque bolts to 28-38 ft lbs. Jack up bike remove blocks, pump front brake lever and your good to go. Good luck

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e

Apr 22, 2014 | 2001 Harley Davidson FLHTCUI Electra Glide...

2 Answers

How do you take off the front tire on the cr 125


The right hand side of the axle requires a 17 or 19mm Allen key to remove it properly. That side of the axle slides thru the fork and the shoulder spaces the wheel. It is retained by the 2 pinch bolts on each fork leg. If you don't have the big Allen key, do this-
Remove the axle nut on the brake side. Remove the 2 bolts that hold the brake caliper on and swing it out of the way.Loosen the pinch bolts. The axle should slide out now-if it's corroded, you may need a hammer and a drift to drive it out. Be careful not to damage the threads.Note the spacer on the brake rotor side.When putting it back together, clean and lightly grease the axle. Also grease the inside of the lip seals for the bearings. Reinstall the wheel, with the hex end of the axle flush with the fork leg. Tighten the pinch bolts on that side only, and torque the axle nut to about 40NM. Loosen the pinch bolts,and compress your forks down a couple of times. This insures your fork legs are parallel and the wheel is centered. Tighten the pinch bolts, reinstall the caliper and you're good to go!

Jun 11, 2011 | 2002 Honda CR 125 R

1 Answer

Hey guys. Just wondering what the proper procedure for removing the front tire from my 2002 kx 125 would be? Dont want to break anything


Proper proceedure would include a 17 or 19mm allen socket for the end of the axle, but normally you can get the axle nut loose by leaving the 2 pinch bolts tight in that end of the axle. So, in order-
1-remove axle nut. 2-remove 2 bolts holding the brake caliper to the fork and tie it back out of the way.3 loosen the pinch bolts at the bottom of both fork tubes, this will allow the axle to slide out. There will be a spacer on the rotor side of the wheel for the bearing, remember this when you reinstall.
Installation-1-clean and lightly grease the axle and inside the bearing seals. 2-install spacer on rotor side of the wheel. 3-reinstall wheel onto the forks,tighten axle nut,leave the pinch bolts loose. 4-with the pinch bolts loose, compress the forks down-this insures that they are parallel to each other. If they forks aren't parallel, they will wear the bushings and fork seals prematurely. 5-tighten the pinch bolts to about 15NM. 6-torque axle nut to 40NM. 7-reinstall caliper.

Jun 08, 2011 | kawasaki KX 125 Motorcycles

1 Answer

I am unable to fit the fork on the front wheel axle bar. It is too tight and won't fit. Do I need to force and open it a little bit?


If it is the original tire than you might have to spread the forks a little bit. If it is not the original front tire than the axle might be to long for that bike. In any case you are on the right track be careful when trying to spread the forks as to not spread to much and also don't get hurt in process. Good Luck...

May 28, 2011 | Mantis Ornata 20 Girls' BMX Bicycle

1 Answer

How do i change the oil seal of the front suspension of my kawasaki 1994 zxr 750?


You need prop the bike up on front and rear stands. The fron stand needs to be the type that holds the bike up by the headtube. Remove brake calipers, front wheel, fender. Then loosen the upper and lower triple clamps. Loosen the clip ons. But before loosening the lower triple, loosen the fork tube top caps.

Drop out the legs. take off the top caps, pour out the oild, and compress the spring. I'd use a fork compressor, race tech makes a nice one. Loosen the top cap from the damping rod. Remove the top cap then pump out the rest of the oil from the damper.

Next, remove the outer dust seal. Remove circlip. Then you need to just extend the fork several times quickly to "bang" out the oil seal and bushings.

The outer bushings, if they look good, need to be gently pryed off using a thin flat head screw driver in the **** of the bushing. Same with the inner bushing. Now the oil seal, metal washer and circlip all come out together. Remember the order.

Lube up the new seals with fresh oil. put back on the fork lowers in the same order they were taken off. Replace bushings at the same time if there's any brass showing. I usually do it any way since the seals seem to go at the same rate as the bushings for me.

Once back together, seat the seals. There's a tool for this, but I usually **** the old oil seal so I can get it on the lower fork tube between the new oil seal and new dust seal. and I quickly compress (bang) the fork a few times until the groove on the upper leg is showing so the circlip will lock back on. Probably not recommended but I haven't ruined a dust seal in about 20 years now.

Fill fork with proper oil viscosity and volume (don't remember how much or weight for zx7s). cycle the damper about 20 times to make sure they're full of oil too. insert spring, re-compress, lock on top cap to damping rod. screw on top cap. reassemble fork on bike. Remember to torque the top cap with the top triple clamp loose otherwise the caps can bind.

Mar 22, 2011 | 1994 kawasaki ZXR 750

1 Answer

I have a 2003 kx 85 , It has pro tech suspension , front fork seals are leaking , would stock fork seals fit this protech suspension? How hard would this be to do myself? Ive done lots of other work on...


Stock fork seals will work but if I were you, I woudl take it to someone who has the correct tools take your fork seals out without gouging the fork leg. If your seals are leaking then chances are you're also low in fluid. Your fluid level is what decides how hard or soft your front end is (In addition to fork spring rate).

Apr 09, 2010 | 2003 kawasaki KX 125

2 Answers

I have a 91 nissan 4x4 the front studs broke off and iwas trying to replce them but the axel nut is on bt i cant find a socket anywhere to get it off


If you can't get anywhere to get one, you will be able to loosen it with a hammer and punch or chisel. Just drive it counter clock wise, and loosen it.

Jan 06, 2010 | 1991 Nissan Pickup

4 Answers

How do i tighten the chain on 2002 yz250?


  • Loosen off the axle nut (B) until it is only lightly tightened. Wind out the chain adjuster bolts (C) evenly on both sides until you reach the desired tension. You will see the top of the chain rise as you wind out the adjuster bolts.on pic below

Once you reach the correct tension, make sure both sides are evenly spaced (using the marker grooves on the adjuster blocks). Squeeze the chain against the swingarm with your hand to hold everything in place and tighten up the axle nut.Tighten up the chain adjuster lock nuts. Now you're ready to ride!
  • Tighten up the chain adjuster lock nuts and thats it buddy measure the chain on the swing anr amr it should be 45mm slack on the swing and arm where the chain slider is 54159bf.jpg

Oct 03, 2009 | 2003 Yamaha YZ 250

1 Answer

530 exc spacing between front fork & spacer


front axle installation: looking at the front of the bike:

slide the wheel into position and insert the axle from the left. with axle now through the right hand fork, install nut and tighten the left fork pinch bolts to secure the axle for tightening the nut. tighten the nut to 29.5 ftlbs. and loosen the left pinch bolts. now tighten the right pinch bolts and compress the front suspension while the left (from front) is still loose. now allow suspension to rest naturally and tighten all 4 pinch bolts to 11 ftlbs.
your done.......the axle is tighten against the rotor side and the other fork is then tighten in it's natural position so as not to cause premature seal and bushing failure and increasing stiction.

Sep 27, 2009 | 2008 KTM 530 EXC-R

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