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The right hand side of the axle requires a 17 or 19mm Allen key to remove it properly. That side of the axle slides thru the fork and the shoulder spaces the wheel. It is retained by the 2 pinch bolts on each fork leg. If you don't have the big Allen key, do this-
Remove the axle nut on the brake side. Remove the 2 bolts that hold the brake caliper on and swing it out of the way.Loosen the pinch bolts. The axle should slide out now-if it's corroded, you may need a hammer and a drift to drive it out. Be careful not to damage the threads.Note the spacer on the brake rotor side.When putting it back together, clean and lightly grease the axle. Also grease the inside of the lip seals for the bearings. Reinstall the wheel, with the hex end of the axle flush with the fork leg. Tighten the pinch bolts on that side only, and torque the axle nut to about 40NM. Loosen the pinch bolts,and compress your forks down a couple of times. This insures your fork legs are parallel and the wheel is centered. Tighten the pinch bolts, reinstall the caliper and you're good to go!
Proper proceedure would include a 17 or 19mm allen socket for the end of the axle, but normally you can get the axle nut loose by leaving the 2 pinch bolts tight in that end of the axle. So, in order-
1-remove axle nut. 2-remove 2 bolts holding the brake caliper to the fork and tie it back out of the way.3 loosen the pinch bolts at the bottom of both fork tubes, this will allow the axle to slide out. There will be a spacer on the rotor side of the wheel for the bearing, remember this when you reinstall.
Installation-1-clean and lightly grease the axle and inside the bearing seals. 2-install spacer on rotor side of the wheel. 3-reinstall wheel onto the forks,tighten axle nut,leave the pinch bolts loose. 4-with the pinch bolts loose, compress the forks down-this insures that they are parallel to each other. If they forks aren't parallel, they will wear the bushings and fork seals prematurely. 5-tighten the pinch bolts to about 15NM. 6-torque axle nut to 40NM. 7-reinstall caliper.
If it is the original tire than you might have to spread the forks a little bit. If it is not the original front tire than the axle might be to long for that bike. In any case you are on the right track be careful when trying to spread the forks as to not spread to much and also don't get hurt in process. Good Luck...
You need prop the bike up on front and rear stands. The fron stand needs to be the type that holds the bike up by the headtube. Remove brake calipers, front wheel, fender. Then loosen the upper and lower triple clamps. Loosen the clip ons. But before loosening the lower triple, loosen the fork tube top caps.
Drop out the legs. take off the top caps, pour out the oild, and compress the spring. I'd use a fork compressor, race tech makes a nice one. Loosen the top cap from the damping rod. Remove the top cap then pump out the rest of the oil from the damper.
Next, remove the outer dust seal. Remove circlip. Then you need to just extend the fork several times quickly to "bang" out the oil seal and bushings.
The outer bushings, if they look good, need to be gently pryed off using a thin flat head screw driver in the **** of the bushing. Same with the inner bushing. Now the oil seal, metal washer and circlip all come out together. Remember the order.
Lube up the new seals with fresh oil. put back on the fork lowers in the same order they were taken off. Replace bushings at the same time if there's any brass showing. I usually do it any way since the seals seem to go at the same rate as the bushings for me.
Once back together, seat the seals. There's a tool for this, but I usually **** the old oil seal so I can get it on the lower fork tube between the new oil seal and new dust seal. and I quickly compress (bang) the fork a few times until the groove on the upper leg is showing so the circlip will lock back on. Probably not recommended but I haven't ruined a dust seal in about 20 years now.
Fill fork with proper oil viscosity and volume (don't remember how much or weight for zx7s). cycle the damper about 20 times to make sure they're full of oil too. insert spring, re-compress, lock on top cap to damping rod. screw on top cap. reassemble fork on bike. Remember to torque the top cap with the top triple clamp loose otherwise the caps can bind.
Stock fork seals will work but if I were you, I woudl take it to someone who has the correct tools take your fork seals out without gouging the fork leg. If your seals are leaking then chances are you're also low in fluid. Your fluid level is what decides how hard or soft your front end is (In addition to fork spring rate).
If you can't get anywhere to get one, you will be able to loosen it with a hammer and punch or chisel. Just drive it counter clock wise, and loosen it.
Yes you have to remove the axle bolt. Both forks can slide out individually. Make sure you have removed the front wheel, brake calipers and the front fender. There is a brace too that needs to be removed or loosened. And make sure the triple tree is loosened too so they can slide. When you install the new ones make sure they go back in the same spot as the old ones or it can make your bike ride unsafe.
Loosen off the axle nut (B) until it is only lightly tightened. Wind out the chain adjuster bolts (C)
evenly on both sides until you reach the desired tension. You will see
the top of the chain rise as you wind out the adjuster bolts.on pic below
Once you reach the correct tension, make sure both sides are evenly
spaced (using the marker grooves on the adjuster blocks). Squeeze the
chain against the swingarm with your hand to hold everything in place
and tighten up the axle nut.Tighten up the chain adjuster lock nuts. Now you're ready to ride!
Tighten up the chain adjuster lock nuts and thats it buddy measure the chain on the swing anr amr it should be 45mm slack on the swing and arm where the chain slider is
front axle installation: looking at the front of the bike:
slide the wheel into position and insert the axle from the left. with axle now through the right hand fork, install nut and tighten the left fork pinch bolts to secure the axle for tightening the nut. tighten the nut to 29.5 ftlbs. and loosen the left pinch bolts. now tighten the right pinch bolts and compress the front suspension while the left (from front) is still loose. now allow suspension to rest naturally and tighten all 4 pinch bolts to 11 ftlbs. your done.......the axle is tighten against the rotor side and the other fork is then tighten in it's natural position so as not to cause premature seal and bushing failure and increasing stiction.
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