I was putting frame sliders on to my cbr r600 89 fk over tightened the bolt then heard a crack, and coolant started pouring out of the drain plug on the cylinder block, is this going to be a pain? thanks lee

Instructions

1. • 1 Place a rear stand under the motorcycle's swing arm to support it.
     
   • 2 Remove the right side fairing panel from the motorcycle, using a 5 mm Allen wrench to unscrew the fairing's bolts. Pull the fairing slightly away from the motorcycle. Reach behind the fairing and unplug the right front turn signal. Set the fairing aside.
     
   • 3 Shift the motorcycle into neutral and start the motor. Let it warm up for three minutes, then stop the motor.
     
   • 4 Place an oil pan beneath the drain plug on the bottom of the motor, centered between the exhaust pipes. Unscrew the filler cap from the clutch cover on the right side of the motorcycle.
     
   • 5 Unscrew the drain plug, using a 17 mm socket and a socket wrench, and drain the motor's oil into the oil pan. Clean the drain plug with a shop towel and reinsert it into the motor. Use a torque wrench to tighten the drain plug to 22 foot-pounds.
     
   • 6 Use an oil filter cap wrench to unscrew the oil filter from the right side of the motor.
     
   • 7 Spread an even coat of 10W40 motor oil over the new oil filter's O-ring. Screw the oil filter onto the motor by hand. Use a torque wrench to tighten the oil filter to 20 foot-pounds.
     
   • 8 Place a funnel into the clutch cover's filler. Pour up to 3.3 quarts of 10W40 motor oil into the motor. Remove the funnel and screw the filler cap into place.
     
   • 9 Reinstall the right side fairing panel, using a 5 mm Allen wrench to insert the fairing's bolts.
     
   • 10 Lower the motorcycle from the rear stand and rest it on its kickstand.
     

Instructions

1. • 1 Lift the CBR onto its center stand. Unlock the seat latch with the ignition key and remove the seat. Remove the clip screws from the top portion of both seat rail covers, positioned below the fuel tank and the seat, using a Phillips screwdriver. Pull the seat rail covers away from the motorcycle's frame.
     
   • 2 Remove both bolts from the front of the fuel tank, using a socket wrench and a 10 mm socket. Lift the tank up and prop it open using the support rod on the motorcycle's frame. Reach under the tank and unplug the fuel pump's wiring connector and all three hoses from the bottom of the tank. Take note of hoses' locations before removing them for reinstallation purposes. Pull the hairpin clip out from the support rod's base. Unscrew the pivot bolt from the base of the fuel tank, using a 10 mm socket. Lift the fuel tank off of the motorcycle.
     
   • 
     
   • 3 Unscrew the air box's mounting bolt from the frame's right seat rail, using a 10 mm socket. Loosen the clamps securing the air box's flanges to the carburetors' inlets, using a Phillips screwdriver. Pull the air box towards the rear of the motorcycle to separate its flanges from the carburetors.
     
   • 4 Loosen the clamps securing the carburetors to the motor's intake manifolds, using a Phillips screwdriver. Pull the carburetors off of the motor and out through the left side of the motorcycle's frame. The carburetors will still be attached to the motorcycle by its throttle and choke cables. Loosen the choke and throttle cables' lock nuts, using a 10 mm wrench. Remove the cables.
     
   • 5 Hold the carburetors over a large container. Unscrew the drain screws on the side of each carburetor's float bowl, positioned at the very bottom of the carburetor, using a flat-head screwdriver. Allow the fuel trapped within the float bowl to drain completely, then tighten the drain screws.
     
   • 6 Flip the carburetor over, with the float bowls up, and place it on a clear work space. Unscrew the bolts from the float bowls, using a Phillips screwdriver, then pull the float bowls and their gaskets away from the carburetors.
     
   • 7 Unscrew the pilot jet from each carburetor, using a flat-head screwdriver. The pilot jet is placed to the left (with the carburetor facing you) of the main jet in the center of the carburetor. Screw a new pilot jet into place with a flat-head screwdriver.
     
   • 8 Reinstall the float bowls and their gaskets onto the carburetors. Tighten the float bowls' screws with a Phillips screwdriver. Reattach the throttle and clutch cables to the carburetors and tighten the cables' lock nuts with a 10 mm wrench. Slide the carburetors through the left side of the frame. Push the carburetors into the motor's intake manifolds. Tighten the intake manifolds' clamps with a Phillips screwdriver.
     
   • 9 Pull the air box against the carburetors and push the air box's flanges over the carburetors' inlets. Tighten the flanges' clamps with a Phillips screwdriver. Screw the air box's mounting bolt onto the frame's right seat rail, using a 10 mm socket.
     
   • 10 Lay the fuel tank onto the motorcycle's frame. Insert the tank's pivot bolt through the hinge at the base of the tank. Screw the pivot bolt's nut into place, using a 10 mm socket. Lift the tank up and reattach the tank support rod to the motorcycle's frame. Insert the hairpin clip into the support rod's base. Prop the tank up on the support rod. Plug the wiring connector into the fuel pump and reconnect all three hoses onto the bottom of the tank. Screw both mounting bolts onto the front of the fuel tank, using a 10 mm socket.
     
   • 11 Mount the seat rail covers onto the motorcycle's frame. Insert and tighten the covers' clip screws, using a Phillips screwdriver. Lay the seat onto the seat rails, then press the rear of the seat down until the seat latch locks into place.
     

To remove the coolant reservoir on a 1998 Honda CBR1100XX Super Blackbird, locate and remove the fasteners securing it, then gently pull it away to access the connecting pipes for inspection.

Hello, Here are the steps for removing and reinstalling your water pump.
Removal

1. Disconnect the positive battery cable.
2. Put a drain pan under the radiator and drain the coolant. Drain the coolant out via the drain plug on the radiator.
3. When drained close the drain plug.
4. Put another drain pan under the timing belt cover.
5. Now you need to remove the timing belt cover.
6. Use a ratchet and remove all the bolts to the time belt cover.
7. Remove timing belt cover.
8. When you get the cover off remove the timing belt.
9. ***NOTE*** due to the time, labor and potential cost of replacing the water pump and the fact that the timing belt is right there it is recommend to put a new timing belt on during the installation process.
10. Remove the bolts that secure the coolant inlet pipe with a ratchet.
11. Remove the pipe and gasket.
12. Remove the belt and idler pulley attached to the water pump. Don't get and coolant or grease on it.
13. Now you need to remove the mounting bolts from the water pump with a ratchet.
14. Remove the pump.
15. Inspect the seating of the gasket real well.
16. Remove all the crud off it with a lint free rag, I repeat lint free rag.

Now to install the new water pump

1. Install the new water pump with the new gaskets provided. Never reuse the old gaskets.
2. Install mounting bolts and torque them at 14-18 foot pounds.
3. There is a bolt that will connect the alternator bracket to the water pump that needs to be torqued at 23-38 foot-pounds.
4. Reinstall the idler pulleys and tighten down with your ratchet.
5. Replace the gasket for the coolant intake pipe with the new gasket.
6. Now torque the remaining bolts to 14-18 foot pounds.
7. Slide the [hopefully new] timing belt back.
8. Reattach the timing covers.
9. Tighten them bolts with your ratchet.
10. Use a mix of 50% water and 50% antifreeze and fill up the radiator and overfill.
11. Squeeze the radiator hoses a few times to get the air out of the hoses.
12. Hook your battery back up.
13. Start the car and let it heat up to full running temperature, with the heat on and check for leaks.
14. Now top off the coolant level again.
15. Go for a short drive.
16. Reinspect for leak.
17. End of job.

Regards, Tony

Hi, you have to follow the instruction below to remove and replace the thermostat....
Removal

• Disconnect the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench. Always use a socket wrench or close-ended wrench on the battery connector so you don't ruin the head of the bolt.
• Drain antifreeze from the cooling system. The simplest way to do this is to have the vehicle on jack stands. Open the radiator cap to relieve pressure -- make sure the engine is cool before you do this. Use a bucket or pan to catch coolant under the radiator. Open the radiator drain on the bottom of the radiator with pliers or by hand. The 3.1L engine has an air bleed valve on the throttle body which you should open two turns.
• Remove the drain plugs located on the underside of the block just above the oil pan and let the coolant drain into your pan or bucket. Close all the drain plugs.
• Unbolt the the water outlet from the thermostat, if your Cutlass has a four-cylinder engine. All other models have the water outlet on the intake manifold. Remove the outlet and the thermostat. If your Cutlass has cruise control, remove the vacuum modulator bracket from the thermostat housing.

Installation

• Use the scraper tool to clean the surfaces where the thermostat and engine block meet. Apply a bead of RTV in the water outlet groove.
• Put your new thermostat in place on the housing. Make sure the side with the spring goes towards the engine. Tighten the thermostat bolts with the torque wrench to the specifications provided. Remember that tightening specifications for the mounting bolts vary between parts manufacturers. If your engine has an air bleed valve near the throttle body, close that too.
• Check that you have closed and tightened the radiator drain and the two drain plugs near the oil pan. Pour the coolant back into the radiator, adding extra coolant if necessary to fill to the base of the radiator neck. Fill the radiator overflow tank to the "FILL" mark with coolant.
• Leave the radiator cap off, start and idle the engine. The coolant level visible in the radiator should drop slightly. Fill it back up to the base of the radiator neck. Put the radiator cap back on and make sure the arrow on the cap points towards the overflow tank. With the engine still idling, squeeze the outlet hose with your hand. The outlet hose is the big one that connects to the top of the radiator. If you feel it getting hot, this tells you the thermostat has opened up and is functioning properly.
• Turn off the engine. Check for leaks on hose fittings and around the drains. Check that the hoses all appear sound and that none are leaking or cracked.

You will need 4 quarts of oil, an oil filter,a drain bolt washer, and an oil filter wrench. Pour in 3 plus quarts, whatever it takes to hit the high mark on the dipstick. Run the engine , to fill the dry filter. Recheck the oil level and top off to the high mark. You will use between 3.2 and 3.8 quarts depending on how much is left in the motor after you drain the old oil. You can reuse the aluminum crush washer if it is not out of shape (looks flat like a normal washer)but keep a spare on hand in case the bolt was overtightened on a previous oil change and the washer is contorted out of shape. Remember to only tighten the oil filter and drain bolt enough so they seal. Do not over tighten or you will have problems next oil change.Any oil that is JASO MA certified motorcycle oil. 10w-40 for cold climate. 20w-50 for warm climate/touring. Car oils use different additives. Do not use any oil that says Energy Conserving on the label . It will shorten the life of your wet clutch and transmission gears. If you use Synthetic oils, they will help your bike run cooler and shift easier.

1.) the drain valve is a bolt type device under the radiator..

2.) different flush has different methods usually buy the flush and follow the instructions.. usually
empty radiator by loosening valve underneath
tighten back valve when drained
pour in flush and top up with water
start car and allow to run for 15 minutes (with cap off)
cut off
let cool and then drain..

add coolant .. your done..

Park the Nissan Altima on a flat surface and set the parking brake. Next, open the hood and check the external temperature of the radiator. If the radiator is warm to the touch, wait for the radiator to cool before you continue.

Twist the radiator cap one turn to relieve any pressure. Step back from the radiator and allow a few seconds to pass, and then completely remove the radiator cap.

Place a bucket or tray with at least a 2-gallon capacity underneath the radiator and below the drain plug. The drain plug on a Nissan Altima is on the passenger side bottom of the radiator.

Loosen the drain plug and let the old coolant drain completely into the bucket. Take care while loosening the drain plug, because it's plastic and can be brittle. Pour the old coolant into a sealable container for proper disposal later and put the bucket back under the drain plug opening.

Close the drain plug and pour distilled water into the radiator until it's full. Then, open the drain plug and let the water flow into the bucket. Keep repeating this procedure until the water runs clear and debris free into the bucket. You will need at least 3 gallons of distilled water.

Make sure to tighten the drain plug and fill the radiator with fresh coolant. Refill the radiator to within an inch of it overflowing. Check the drain plug and hoses for any possible leaks.

Start the Nissan Altima and turn the heater to the high setting. Let it run for about 10 minutes and shut the engine off. Check the coolant level and refill, if necessary. Finally, put the radiator cap on and close the hood.

Not really!
The leaking (weep-hole) is purposely put in the water-pump to warn you that the water pump is defective.
You have to replace the water-pump together with new gasket.

1. Drain the coolant into a container by opening the radiator cap, and the drain-plug under it.
2. Remove the water-pump hose and the bolts .
3. Put in place the new water-pump with new gasket.
4. Reverse removal procedure for installation.
5. Start engine and check for leaks.

remove seat, turn fuel selector off, pull off fuel line to fuel filter, remove tank, you should see radiator cap now... turn loose not off, just incase still has pressure... now follow lower radiator hose and it will lead to the water pump and on the water pump there is a little screw on the bottom sticking out of the side...thats the drain for the system ...now place something to catch a lot of fluid and when you take the drain bolt out it'll start coming out but as soon as you take off the radiator cap it will pour out fast so be prepared. that bolt i think has a washer on it to, don't lose it...once drained, put drain bolt back firmly dont torque stand the bike up on a wheel stand and now slowly ever so slowly start to pour your coolant: coolaid, waterwetter, whatever, but not tap water. now jiggle the bike around once in awhile to get trapped air out of it it, may look full but you might have to get a stand or box about waist high set your tank on it and hook up the fuel...be careful dont let the tank fall, get someone to hold it for you...start the bike let it run for a minute shut down add more coolant, start it again run it and jiggle the bike watch to see if water bubbles are still coming out now rap the throttle up to about 4000rpm once or twice check the level again turn bike off let it set for a minute again, does the level stay now right up to the neck.... well then put on the cap and everything back on.. now when you have everything back on take for a short ride and then check your coolant reservoir, dont overfill it just up to the warm mark and you should now check the drain bolt for leaks...all done.
Can i get a very helpful reply....thanks