Hi, Anonymous before testing any electrical component in the Charging System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
1. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
2. To check the regulator unplug it from the stator. Take a test light and clip it to the negative terminal of the battery and then touch first one pin and then the other on the plug that goes to the regulator. If you get even the slightest amount of light from the test light the regulator is toast.
To do this with a meter: black lead to battery ground, red lead to each pin on the plug, start with the voltage scale higher than 12vdc and move voltage scale down in steps for each pin. Any voltage is a bad regulator.
3. On the other part of the disconnected regulator plug. Set the multimeter for Ohms x1 scale and measure for resistance across the pins of the stator. You should read something around 0.1 to 0.2 ohms for a 32 amp system.
4. Then check for continuity between each pin on the plug and frame/engine ground. The meter needle should not move (infinite resistance)(digitals will show infinite resistance) if the meter needle does move (indicating continuity)(digitals will show some resistance), recheck very carefully. If the meter still shows continuity to ground the stator is shorted (bad).
5. Set the meter to read A/C volts higher than 30 volts (the scale setting for voltage should always be higher than the highest voltage you expect or you may fry the meter). Start the bike, and measure from one pin to the other on the plug (DO NOT cross the multimeter probes! - touch them to each other). You should read roughly 16-20 vac per 1,000 rpm.
6. If the battery was good under load test, if the stator is NOT shorted to ground, and the stator is putting out A/C voltage, then the regulator is bad (most likely even if passed step 2)
For more information about your question and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. charging problem in 99 F4 CBR Forum Enthusiast forums for Honda CBR Owners How to diagnose no spark situation on motorcycle Honda CBR600F4I 2001 Service Manual https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-honda Honda CBR600F4i Owner Manual
Hi, Anonymous if you are experiencing excessive oil coming out of the crankcase breather or air filter please drain all engine oil and replace half of the same oil that comes out. Many riders are overfilling their oil system because they do not know how to properly read their oil site glass or dipstick. The following procedure works on nearly all 4 stroke engines but to be on the safe side you should refer to your owners manual. Use your center stand if you have one.
1. Bring the engine up to operating temperature or let idle for 5 minutes.
2. Turn off your engine and let it sit for 2 minutes, this will allow the oil from the top end to drain to the bottom.
3. Hold your bike straight up or on the center stand and wait 2 minutes for the oil in the bottom of the engine to be level in the sight glass or on the dipstick.
4. Your oil level should be between the top full mark and the bottom add oil mark.
5. Never overfill your oil system it will cause problems:
a. oil leaking out of exhaust pipes.
b. oil leaking out of breather pipe/hose.
c. oil carryover into the air cleaner.
6. Your oil site glass must "NEVER" be completely full or empty drain or add oil as necessary.
7. Your oil dipstick must "NEVER" be over the full mark and should never be below the add mark drain or add oil as needed.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. Kappa Motorbikes Honda CBR 600f oil change Honda CBR600F4I 2001 Service Manual https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-honda Honda CBR600F4i Owner Manual
I could be wrong but it sounds like your getting air in the gas lines. Is your gas cap tightening correct and working properly? Check all fuel lines to see if you have a crack or loose and air getting in.
i had many cbr's, awesome awesome awesome. any semi or full synthetic is good , just keep adding till it reads on the glass or dipstick wichever may be the case. start with at least one litre then check it.
Firstly, the best starting point for a suspension set up is the manufacturers original settings. This allows you to go back to a baseline set up, no matter how much fiddling around you do.
Because everyone is slightly different and of differing weights, then a bike will work best when set up to the individual. The following rough guide for a solo rider has worked on bikes I've owned to give me a good suspension set up for road use.
Initially we'll adjust the preload on the suspension. The front preload:- 1. Put a cable tie round the front fork stanchion (the shiney bit). 2. Get help from a mate and lift the front of the bike, so there is no weight on the front forks, and slide the cable tie down the fork until it rests on the fork seal. If you've got USD forks, then slide the cable tie upwards to the fork seal. 3. Put the bike back on the ground. 4. Now wearing all your riding gear, get on the bike gently and allow your full weight to settle on the bike in roughly a riding position. Try not to bounce the bike as you do it. You should now be sitting there with your tip toes lightly on the ground stabilising the bike. 5. When everything is stable, get your mate to slide the cable tie till it again touches the fork seal. 6. Carefully get off the bike. 7. The front of the bike needs lifting again until the weight is off the forks. Now measure the distance between the cable tie and the fork seal. Ideally the gap should be in the region of 30 to 40mm. If the gap is too large then increase the preload and repeat steps 2 to 7, if the gap is too small then reduce the preload and repeat steps 2 to 7.
The rear preload:- 1. With the help of that same good mate, you'll owe him a beer after all this lifting, lift the back of the bike so the weight is off the rear suspension. 2. Measure from the centre of the rear axle to a fixed part of the bike above it. Remember this measurement as R1. 3. Put the bike back down. 4. Now wearing all your riding gear, get on the bike and allow your full weight to settle on the bike in roughly a riding position. You should now be sitting there with your tip toes lightly on the ground stabilising the bike. 5. Measure from the centre of the axle to the same point on the bike as before. Remember this measurment as R2. 6. Now the maths. R1 minus R2 should be in the region of 30 to 40mm. If it's greater, then the rear preload needs increasing and repeat steps 4 to 6. If it's less then the rear preload needs reduciing and repeat steps 4 to 6. The R1 figure isn't going to change so there's no need to do 1 and 2 again.
Now we'll go onto the black art of the damping adjustment. If the bike feels unstable, loose and rather bouncy, then the rebound damping needs increasing. Just try a little at a time until you find the setting best for you. If the bike feels hard and bumpy, then reduce the rebound damping. Again, just adjust a little at a time. Make a note somewhere how much you've adjusted things. If the bike has a tendency to bottom out under braking, then increase the front compression damping. If it feels too rigid or tends to hop under braking, then reduce the front compression damping. If the back of the bike bottoms out in depressions or feels unstable in fast corners, then increase the rear compression damping. If the back end feels rigid and harsh, then reduce the rear compression damping. Remember to make a note of all the adjustments you've made.
If it all goes wrong, return the bike to standard settings and start again.
Pull one of your spark plug wires off and put a sparkplug in it. Touch it against the motor or frame(somewhere grounded) And crank it over. Don't hold onto the plug! It will shock you if it is getting fire!
Hondas answer would be to fit a new cylinder block, which with labour and gaskets etc, would cost proberbly as much as the bike is worth.
The good news is you may be able to use a helicoil kit to repair the thread. This is pretty inexpensive, and involves drilling the damaged threaded hole oversize, retapping, then inserting a stainless steel thread. Many bike shops offer this service, but be aware that any swarth from drilling etc must not get into the threaded hole as this could block waterflow or seize the water pump. It may be necessary to remove the block to do a good repair and flush away any metal swarth.
I am assuming it is just the thread that has stripped? If you have cracked the surrounding cylinder head then I'm afraid it will require the head and barrells to be removed and either the repair alloy welded, or a replacement head fitted.
An air leak is making the fuel/air mix lean. This makes the engine run fast. Loose clamps or loose mounting bolts as well as cracked rubber manifolds and hose fittings are the usual source. Another possibility is a throttle line out of position or stuck.