There are two possible solutions:
1. If you are sure the engine is OK then you can increase the throttle screw to increase idle race. The throttle screw can be found where the throttle wire connects with the carburetor.
2. If the bike is old or if you have not changed the engine oil on time then the bike needs piston ring replacement. This should be done as soon as possible to avoid more engine damage and effect savings on cash.
SOURCE: will only run with full choke and absolutely no throttle.
Carbs gummed up. Need a serious cleaning or a full ruubers replacement/rebuild kit. Gas turns to gummy when left stting in the fuel bowls.
Use a couple of cans of Sea Foam.. best stuff in the world.
SOURCE: bike bogs for second then revs when throttling
Pull the slide out of the carb then remove the jet needle and move the clip one notch lower on the needle.
SOURCE: Engine dies when choke is taken off or when throttle is applied.
where the valves set cold or hot? could make the world of a difference...is there intake leaks? bad floats perhaps....its a problem that will take some time cancelling out problem by problem
SOURCE: rebuilt all four carbs cleaned and replace needle
With Mikuni carbs, the idle circuits affect engine performance up to 3000 rpm under light loads. If the idle circuits are restricted (by fuel gum, rust dust from the tank or dirty fuel, the results will be 1) the engine will run with "choke" on. 2) poor or no throttle response below 3000rpm,3) back firing and missing on the effected cylinder(s). Cure is to blow out the idle circuits and idle screw adjustment jets with several applications of carb cleaner and compressed air. Failing that, strip the carbs.
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