Need to replace crankshaft main bearings

TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
All readings in ft. lbs.
Year Engine Displacement Liters Engine VIN Cylinder Head Bolts Main Bearing Bolts Rod Bearing Bolts Crankshaft Damper Bolts Flywheel Bolts Manifold Spark Plugs Oil Pan Drain Plug Intake Exhaust 2008 3.3 H - - - 40 70 - 17 13 20 3.8 P - - - 40 70 - 17 13 20 4.0 X - - - 70 70 - 17 20 20 2009 3.3 H - - - 40 70 - 17 13 20 3.8 P - - - 40 70 - 17 13 20 4.0 X - - - 70 70 - 17 20


Main Bearing Torque Sequence


3.3L & 3.8L Engines Specific to:
Chrysler Town & Country 2008-2009
Dodge Grand Caravan 2008-2009

NOTE
Only one main bearing should be selectively fitted while all the other main bearing caps are properly tightened.

1.Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions Section.
2.Start a bearing in place, and insert Main Bearing Tool C-3059 into the oil hole of the crankshaft.
3.Slowly rotate the crankshaft counterclockwise sliding the bearing into position. Remove Special Main Bearing Tool C-3059.
4.Inspect the main cap bolts for stretching. Replace the bolts that are stretched.
NOTE
The main cap bolts should be examined before reuse. Bolt stretch can be checked by holding a scale or straight edge against the threads. If all the threads do not contact the scale, the bolt must be replaced.

5.Install each main cap and tighten the bolts finger tight.
6.Tighten number 1, 3, and 4 main cap bolts to 30 ft. lbs. (41 Nm), plus 1 / 4 turn.
7.Rotate the crankshaft until the number 6 piston is at Top Dead Center (TDC).
8.To ensure correct thrust bearing alignment, the following procedure must be done:
A.Move the crankshaft all the way to the rear of its travel.
B.Then, move the crankshaft all the way to the front of its travel.
C.Wedge an appropriate tool between the rear of the cylinder block and the rear crankshaft counterweight. This will hold the crankshaft in its most forward position.
D.Tighten the No. 2 Thrust Bearing cap bolts to 30 ft. lbs. (41 Nm), plus

what do you mean by "floating crank"
comment on he description

Disconnect the battery. Remove the spark plugs. You will need to remove the engine and transmission from the vehicle (unless you have a lift, in which case you only need to remove the transmission.). Separate the engine and transmission. Remove the flex plate (flywheel). Remove the serpentine belt and crankshaft pulley. Remove the timing cover, timing chain, and crankshaft timing gear. Remove the oil pan. You may have to remove the oil pump for clearance. Remove the rod bearing caps. Keep them in proper sequence. Remove the main bearing caps. Keep them in proper sequence. Remove the crankshaft.

You will need new rod and main bearings to replace those already in the vehicle. You will need a new oil pan gasket and timing cover gasket set. Depending upon mileage and age, you may want to replace the timing gears, chain and guides. You must know all proper torque values for the crank and rod bearing caps, flex plate, and timing cover.

As you can well see, this is not a job for the auto DIY novice.

I wish it were that easy. First, you need the service manual. You need to write down the exact model of your engine (d15b7?). To get the main bearings, you need to write down the letter/number combination in the bell housing area. Then, you need all the numbers/ letters off the crankshaft. Take them down to the dealer and they can match them up to "colors." You have to order bearings by color from the dealer. That is the only way you will get the right stuff. If you want rod bearings too, then you need the number/letter off each rod also....

You can't. To replace the main bearings you need to remove the crankshaft. To remove the crankshaft you must remove the flywheel. To remove the flywheel, you must remove the transmission. The transmission is part of the engine mounting system. Just buck up and pull the whole works. Chances are you will need to re-bore the mains anyway if you have spun any of the main bearings. That cannot be done with the engine in the car.

v6 have 4 main bearing sets and 6 big end bearing sets
v8 have 5 main bearing sets and 8 bigend sets
5 cylinder inline will have 6 main bearing sets and 5 big end set
It appears that some where you are short a set of bearings Check that the rebuild kit is for your engine

TORQUE SPEC FOR ROD BEARING BOLTS 19 - 24 FT LBS TORQUE SPEC FOR MAIN BEARING BOLTS 60 - 70 FT LBS, CRANKSHAFT PULLEY BOLT 85 - 100 FT LBS. MAIN BEARING OIL CLEARANCE .0005 - .0022 CONNECTING ROD OIL CLEARANCE .0008 - .0015 / SHAFT END PLAY .004 - .008 / AND ROD SIDE CLEARANCE IS .004 - .011 HOPE THIS HELP THIS INFORMATION I GAVE YOU IS INLINE 6 -200 AND INLINE 6 - 250 ENGINES

Well the cam bearings will have to do with this also,if it has them,if not it can be the wear in the cam carriers.But most likely the crankshaft journals are worn to much,the crank would need turning,and over size rod,and main bearings would need to be installed.

no it is not the same thing and it is a precision part that requires finding the right size. main bearing is the bearings that go in the journals of the crank and the rod bearings are the bearings that go on to the connecting rods that go on the crank.