Brake light flashing continous

i don't know. make sure battery is hooked up to correct plus and minus posts. try shutting off everything and close doors and trunk. engage the parking brake. put shift selector in park or out of gear. try to start. if it runs, you can try turning on one thing at a time to discover what is the cause of the continuous noises.

The lights flash in a systematic sequence which reveals an VSI error code. Count the number of flashes.

1. Battery needs charging
2. Left motor bad connection
3. Left motor shorted
4. Right motor bad connection
5. Right motor shorted
6. Unplug battery charger
7. Joystick fault. Make certain the joystick is in the neutral position (centered) before turning on the controller
8. Controller fault. Check connections
9. Parking brakes bad connection. Check connections to parking brake, motor and controller
10. Excessive voltage. Check battery charger connections.

bad door switch, dose your dome light go out when you close the door? brake light can be a tail light out, put 4way flashers on and see if on doesnt flash. but most common is low brake fluid in the reserve. if its not low a common problem is its sensor an easy fix the replace comes with a new cap just unplug the 2 wires on wireline and plug in the new . battery light comes on if the battery is low or if the alternater is bad . jump the car, once running disconnect the neg. battery terminal if the engine stops the alternater is bad if not get the battery tested

hi,when the speed light flashes,is there a pause or is this a continous flash ?regarding missing a connection, that i very much doubt...

Regards
Rob

www.gewizrepairs.co.uk

brake lights different thing but light for heater plugs flashing try changine the mass air flow meter ,seems to be common fault

has your battery being replaced new one might not have sensor if so you can fit a 50 k resistor between the positive terminal and sensor wire located next to the battery this will stop light flashing

maybe is the hard disk malfunction

Let it charge without anything plugged in to the outlets for at least 8 hours. Then, test the battery voltage again. If you still get less than 11.5 volts on either of the batteries, it's time for a new set. It's recommended that you replace both as the other one, even with a reading of 12 volts, is going to fail very soon. The UPS is trying to charge the batteries to get both batteries, as a pair, to 24 volts. It will continously charge them until it gets there (which won't happen if it's a bad battery) and you'll burn out the new one you just replaced. You can new batteries at www.batteryinternational.com for a fraction of the cost of a new UPS. Hope this helps.

The control systems on power mobility equipment have a "prevent" circuit that immobilizes the equipment while it is plugged into a charger, so folks won't take off with it plugged into the wall outlet. When you turn it on when plugged into a charger, the display will flash constantly, or sweep constantly, depending on the manufacturer. This is normal. Your off-board charger should have a red light to indicate power to the charger, and another light for the charge status. Yellowish means it is charging, when it turns green, you are fully charged. If the status light is green all the time, that is an indication that the charger is not functioning properly, or that the batteries are below a chargeable state. Check charger output, which should be 26-28 volts dc, and each battery should show at least a 12 volt reading, but around 13.5 volts with a full charge. If one or both of the batteries drops below 12 volts after a short period of time, it's time for a fresh pair. Fully charge new ones before using the chair.

You need to tell us more then "MY mouse"... but I'll try to help.
First: there must be button to power off/on your mouse, switch to off and then on. If red light continues to flash clean connections on mouse and on dock (where you charge mouse), try to charge it, if red light continues to flash check if you can replace battery if not it's time for new mouse.