2007 kawasaki KX 125 - Page 3 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Are you certain the throttle butterfly or slide (depending on what model bike you have) is seated...if the actual throttle in the carb throat is not closing, starting bike cold will be very difficult as you are feeding in too much air.

probably need to remove the caliper frmm the disc, usually 2 bolts

You don't mention the model.

bit more information needed here what model kawasaki do you have and what problem
do you have with it

Add glycol. Antifreeze with a corrosion inhibiter.
Depending on the ambiany temperature, set the concentration.

hey one is gas tank to carb the rest are hang down when you tip you bike the gas will run out of the tube and not mess up your engine :)

Look here: http://www.repairmanualclub.com/motomanuals/index.php

Perhaps you mean brake disc not sprocket..
no you will have problems mounting the brakes

If the float is stuck or the valve is not sealing correctly, petrol will flood the engine.

There are 2 circlips (1 on either side that need to be removed first. Then you can either use the special tool available in most tool shops or a bolt and 2 washers and piece of pipe, one washer must be smaller than the outside diameter of the gudgeon pin and the other must be bigger than the pipe. The pipe must have an inside diameter that allows the gudgoen to be pulled through it. You slide the bolt through the large washer then the pipe and then the gudgeon pin hole, then the small washer and then put a nut on the bolt that is slightly smaller thann the washer so it doesn't score the piston as you wind it and the gudgeon pin through the piston and into the pipe.

There could be debris in the float bowl preventing the float valve from closing. If this is the case it is likely this debris may get into other passages / circuits within the carb. Or the float has become full of fuel itself and cannot exert enough pressure on the valve to stop the flow of fuel. Also the float level has to be at the proper height to meter the fuel at the proper rate of flow for the engine in all conditions. Too low and the bike will starve for fuel before the valve can respond....to high and it'll pour out as your friend's is doing.
Drop the bowl off the carb and check to see if the float is full of fuel or there is any sign of debris in the bowl. Any sign of crud in the bowl and I would suggest cleaning the carb. You may be able the clear things enough to get the fuel to stop flowing by messing about but may have trouble down the road shortly if you don't get it all **** and span.
Do some more research into cleaning the carb as there are some parts you need to be careful of exposing to chemicals like solvents and cleaners...the rubber tip on the needle valve on the float. Basic rule is don't soak any plastic or rubber bits in any nasty chemicals. Same goes for you...lol...
You can check the float level without removing the carb by shutting of the gas and draining the float bowl. Take a short piece of clear tubing (8 inches or so) and slip it over the nipple where the drain screw was. Hold the tubing alongside the carb / bowl body so the open end is up and above the level the fuel should come to. Mark a small line on the tubing say 1/4" above the join between carb bowl and body. Turn on the fuel and observe the fuel flowing into tube....once it stops carefully lower the tube until the line you made is even with the split between bowl and body. The fuel shold stop flowing just before the top of the bowl....measure between your line and the fuel level....in your case the fuel may well just keep climbing out the tube as it seems you have issues there. After you get it sorted out this info is more useful.

Air screw setting = 1 1/2 turns Float height = 15 - 17 mm Fuel level = 0 - 2 mm below edge of bowl.

Get about three feet of clear neoprene fuel line at a motorcycle dealershop or car parts store. It should be small enough to fit securely over the bleeder nipple of your rear brake caliper. You want to put one end of the fuel line on the bleeder valve and the other end in a small jar with a little brake fluid in it. I usually put a box end wrench in the bleeder valve and then push the fuel line on, but you could use an open end wrench. Take the lid off the brake master cylinder to make sure you don't drain the reservoir and get air into the brake lines. With one hand pull on the brake lever, and with the other loosen the bleeder valve so that brake fluid flows out the valve and through the fuel line into the jar. Once the fuel line is completely full of brake fluid you don't have to worry about air getting back into the caliper when you let up on the brake lever. You will be able to see the bubbles come out of the caliper and go down the fuel line, and that way you will know when the job is done. It's easier to just unscrew the valve as you pull the lever, and screw it back in before you release the lever, and do this several times to bleed the caliper without going to the trouble of using the clear fuel line. But the way I recommended is not so messy, as all the brake doesn't spill out onto the ground, and you have a safety factor with the fuel line preventing air from getting back into the bleeder valve.

HI FIRST YOU WILL HAVE TO REMOVE THE ENGINE FROM THE FRAME, DRAIN THE GEARBOX OIL OUT, YOU WILL ALSO NEED A FLYWHEEL PULLER THIS IS A SPECIAL TOOL, DAMAGE CAN OCCURE AT GREAT EXPENSE IF YOU DONT USE CORRECT TOOLS, COMPLETLY DISMANTLE THE ENGINE AND GEARBOX, CAREFULLY EXAMINE ALL INTERNALLS AND SEEK REPLACMENT PARTS, A DELICATE JOB REQUIRES FINESS AND COMPETENCE

Make sure the choke is fully disengaged while riding. Is it two stroke? If so, make sure fuel/oil mixture is not too rich. If four stroke, try a colder plug. If four stroke, make sure valves are adjusted properly.

is the compression good on your engine have you checked and cleaned the carb out also are you running the right pre mix ratio about 32:1 which is about 156 ml oil to 5 litres of petrol

See: https://www.cyclepedia.com/1988-2004-kawasaki-kx60-kdx80-kx80-kx100-online-manual/

Remember horizontal split or vertical split your cases are glued together so they do not leak oil. ALSO, the Japanese are notorious for hiding a bolt some where that has to be removed before the separation can take place . Make sure anything you can take off is off and look carefully. You may want to go to a site like bikebandit.com or babbitsonline.com. There a blow pictures of your motor there. They will show you all the parts and what you can not see to help you determine if you have missed a bolt some where. Remember to tap or pry gently at different points on the case so you do not damage the case halves. Once you get one area loosened you should be able to work your way around to loosen up the rest. Remember you are also fighting with alignment pins. Work carefully and good luck.

HI FIRST OFF CLAMP THE BRAKE HOSE CLOSE TO THE MASTER CILINDER AS YOU CAN IF YOU HAVE RUBBER BRAKE LINES, YOU CANT DO THIS IF YOU HAVE BRAIDED OR SIM HOSES.
WITH THE CLAMP ON YOU SHOULD HAVE A GOOD SOLID PEDAL, IF THIS IS THE CASE,, UNDO THE BLEED NIPPLE ON THE REAR CALIPER, USE A PIPE TO CATCH THE FLUID, WHILE PUSHING DOWN ON THE PEDAL, GENTLY RELEASE THE PRESURE OF THE CLAMP, NOT ALL THE WAY THIS WILL ALOW YOU TO FORCE THE FLUID PAST THE CLAMP, BEFORE YOU ALOW THE PEDAL TO RETURN RE APPLY THE PRESURE ON THE CLAMP, REPEAT THIS SEVERAL TIMES TILL THE FLUID STARTS CUMING OUT OF THE NIPPLE, THEN TIGHTEN THE NIPPLE REMOVE THE CLAMP AND PROCEED TO BLEED IN THE NORMAL WAY TO REMOVE ANY FURTHER AIR WHICH MAY BE IN THE SYSTEM,

That will depend on what model motorcycle you have.
D.

That's specifically made for marine use. I'd steer clear. Try the Mobil 1 4T racing, if you want a good oil.