20 Most Recent 2005 kawasaki KX 125 Questions & Answers


Hi, Anonymous for this scenario you will need your service, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Kawasaki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing and printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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2005 kawasaki KX... | Answered on Jul 23, 2018


Hi, Anonymous for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Kawasaki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
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2005 kawasaki KX... | Answered on May 23, 2018


Hi, Molokaiboy96 and the usual suspects are:
1. The first thing to do if your spark plug has been fouled is to check the air filter. If it's really dirty, that makes it difficult for air to get through to the engine, causing a rich condition. Either clean it thoroughly with some Air Filter Cleaner or buy a new filter. Before you put it back in the air-box, treat with some air filter oil or spray. "WARNING" adding too much oil can also clog up the filter, resulting in another fouled plug.
2. While the gas/oil ratio doesn't equate to what the jetting is, you can still foul plugs, or worse, if the mixture is wrong. Depending on your bike, it's best to look at your owner's manual for the correct ratio. For most 2-stroke motocross bikes, a ratio is 32:1 or 40:1, the gas being 32 or 40, and oil being 1. For those that don't it, it means that for every 128 ounces (one gallon) of gas, you add 4 ounces of 2-stroke oil for a 32:1 ration, or just over 3 ounces for a 40:1 ratio.
If you have too much oil in the mixture (such as 12:1), then you will probably end up fouling the plug because it is more difficult to burn that much oil. Don't try to cut corners with the oil though, because it's very important for your dirt bike's engine. 2-stokes need the oil for lubrication on the cylinder walls, so if you don't have enough (or any for that matter) then the cylinder walls will run dry, causing it to overheat and seize the engine very quickly. So it's very important that you put in the right mixture pre-mix to your 2-stroke gas tank.
Also, 2-strokes have reeds that air and fuel go through into the cylinder, so if they are cracked or broken the bike will not run right. This could cause the plug to foul, so before you go out and buy anything expensive, make sure the reeds are still good.
3. While this usually isn't the main problem, it could be that your spark plug isn't burning hot enough. Having a hotter spark will ignite the fuel stronger, leaving less residual gas/oil in the cylinder that could cause the plug to foul. This "ISN'T" the best choice, but I'd say it's safe to go one plug hotter than stock. Keep an eye on the plug color you're looking for a light tan color anything whiter and you could burn a hole in your piston. Spark plug manufacturers aren't always the same, so make sure you find out how they rate them.
4. Almost every motocross bike comes rich from the factory (especially Honda 2-Strokes when they were being made). It's usually a pretty simple fix, but many riders are too lazy and would rather continue buying plugs instead of spending a few bucks on jets.
5. Piston rings badly worn or broken.
6. Faulty ignition coil low output.
For more information about your question and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
2003 kx125 fouling plugs
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Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e

2005 kawasaki KX... | Answered on Mar 02, 2018


Hi, Wieczorekjoe your instrument gauges and lights can alert you to most electrical and engine issues they can not warn you about failed engine gaskets or seals so your engine has to resort to old fashion alert methods of colored "SMOKE SIGNALS" here is a breakdown of their meaning:
1. COLORLESS OR SLIGHTLY BLUE SMOKE on start-up means your air/fuel mixture is the right composition and everything is well burnt in your combustion chamber.
2. BLUE SMOKE on startup is usually caused by failed valve seals dripping oil into the combustion chamber when the engine is not running.
3. YELLOW OR BROWNISH SMOKE at start-up means your air/fuel mixture is too lean. Too lean means that there is low fuel but high air mixture in your combustion chamber.
4. WHITE SMOKE on startup may be caused by a blown head gasket allowing coolant to enter the combustion chamber and may start dripping out of the exhaust pipes or mufflers. Smoke while riding is usually caused by worn out or damaged valves, seals, guides, pistons, rings, or cylinder walls.
5. BLACK SMOKE on startup is usually caused by too much fuel in the combustion chamber this can be due to air/fuel mixture adjustment too rich, accelerator pump improperly adjusted, faulty choke or not in the off position, air filter dirty and clogged, faulty carburetor float needle and seat, pilot jet too large, fuel injectors leaking, smoke while riding is usually caused by the main jet being too large or a damaged carburetor.
It should be noted that aggressive or abnormal throttle operation will cause these conditions to manifest themselves exponentially.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day.
KX250F Smoking out of exhaust What needs replacement
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https://www.howtomotorcyclerepair.com/images/Kawasaki-KX-125-KX250-Service-Manual-2003-2004-2005-2006-2007-2008.pdf
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Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e

2005 kawasaki KX... | Answered on Mar 02, 2018


Hi, Anonymous for this scenario you will need your service manual, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Kawasaki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
Bike won shift stuck in one of the upper gears
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03 08 Kawasaki KX 125 250 Service Manual pdf
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Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e



2005 kawasaki KX... | Answered on Feb 27, 2018


Hi, Anonymous engine "BOG" is mainly caused by a rich air and lean fuel condition but it can also be caused by a lean air and rich fuel condition this situation rarely occurs and is only caused by the misinformed weekend warrior that owns a toolbox. If the bike has been sitting for months or years you will have to completely disassemble the carburetor and submerge the parts (except rubber parts) in "Carburetor Dip" It usually comes in a gallon bucket with a wire mesh basket that can be purchased at any automotive store. If it is not the above scenario then the following explanation will apply.
The more you open your throttle the more vacuum you are creating in your carburetor venturi and your intake manifold. When you are operating at higher RPM any unmetered air that leaks into your system can become more obvious.
Unmetered air is air that is getting into your system after the fuel has been delivered. If you have unmetered air getting into your system between the butterfly/slide of the carburetor and the cylinder head this will create a lean condition.
All of the rubber components of the fuel system like vacuum hoses and intake manifold that you mount the carburetor to are made of rubber. If none of these components have been changed they are more than likely highly degraded and probably cracked in places to allow unwanted-unmetered-contaminated air into the combustion chamber. Check all of your vacuum lines and vacuum plugs for carburetor synchronization. The vacuum plugs are in the head just after the rubber intake manifolds. The petcock has a vacuum line as well as part of the emission system.
1. Check the intake manifold for fissures.
2. Ensure the bands used to tighten the manifolds down on the intake are secure and have not bound up the manifold.
3. Make sure air box fittings are not warped and fit completely over the carburetor.
4. For 2 strokes make sure the power valve is adjusted properly.
Your airbox is metering air and is the first step in a process of consuming air and fuel. The system requires the resistance of the air filter in order to get the proper vacuum to "SUCK" the fuel out of the float bowl and create the proper venturi effect.
Improper mounting and sealing of the airbox will create a small lean effect. This might seem like no big deal but you are inviting dust and debris in your engine that is doing slow damage by not having proper fitment. Fix it so you know it's not contributing to your issue. Pick the low-hanging fruit first.
Do not go and start adjusting anything at this point. It ran fine before. There is something wrong with the assembly or a component. Do not adjust your floats. Get it back to where it was. The moment you start tweaking everything is the moment you lose OEM settings which are a must-have for fine-tuning and maximum performance.
Fine-tuning your carburetor and multi carb syncing come at the very end following the proper procedure established by the Carburetor Gods.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below and for more specific information or questions at no charge please feel free to contact me at xlch@mail.com. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e

2005 kawasaki KX... | Answered on Feb 27, 2018


Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
1. Improper clutch adjustment or not disengaging.
2. Bent shift shaft.
3. Shift fork bent or seized.
4. Gear seized on the shaft.
5. Gear positioning lever binding.
6. Shift return springs weak or broken.
7. Shift return spring pin loose
8. Shift mechanism arm spring is broken.
9. Shift mechanism arm is broken.
10. Shift drum is broken.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
KX stuck in gear
2007 KX 125 won shift into gear
03 08 Kawasaki KX 125 250 Service Manual pdf
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2005 Kawasaki KX125 Owner Manual

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e

2005 kawasaki KX... | Answered on Feb 27, 2018


Hi, Ian and the usual suspects are:
1. Improper clutch adjustment or not disengaging.
2. Bent shift shaft.
3. Shift fork bent or seized.
4. Gear seized on the shaft.
5. Gear positioning lever binding.
6. Shift return springs weak or broken.
7. Shift return spring pin loose
8. Shift mechanism arm spring is broken.
9. Shift mechanism arm is broken.
10. Shift drum is broken.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
Transmission problems 2004 KX125
KTM stuck in gear or wont shift repair
Kawasaki KX125 Service Manual
OEM Parts for Kawasaki
2005 Kawasaki KX125 Owner Manual

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e


2005 kawasaki KX... | Answered on Feb 27, 2018


Hi, Ruben for this scenario you will need your service, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Kawasaki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
2005 Kawasaki KX 125 wiring diagram Google Search
Kawasaki Motorcycle Wiring Diagrams
Kawasaki KX125 Service Manual
OEM Parts for Kawasaki
Kawasaki kx125 1997 Owner Manual

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e

2005 kawasaki KX... | Answered on Oct 14, 2017


go bac and chec timing-mite hav confused top dead center with bottom--also is wiring tite and no flaws specialy at batt area,coil .....mite need to take some current test

2005 kawasaki KX... | Answered on May 22, 2012


The caps on motorcycle plug wire that snap onto the spark plug wear out and yours may need be replaced. They just unscrew from the wire and new ones screw onto the old wire. May not hurt to see if your plug wires can be changed from the coil as well. Get some new solid core wire and the resistor caps.

2005 kawasaki KX... | Answered on Sep 03, 2011


32:1 is what is considered stock for most 2 stroke kawasaki

2005 kawasaki KX... | Answered on May 19, 2011


Well - not knowing the condition of the bike it could be a lot of things. I would start with a fresh spark plug, fresh fuel and a clean air filter. You say you already did the carb, reeds and top end - good. I assume you set the float level correctly. Did you pull out the petc0ck from the fuel tank - theres a filter that might be plugged up. Check your exhaust system for plugs - I've seen mice nest in pipes over the winter. If all this fails, look into your power valve system to ensure it's working and adjusted properly. If so, then do a leak down test - you might have a lower end leak. That's the best I can do without seeing or hearing it run. Hope this helped!

2005 kawasaki KX... | Answered on May 13, 2011


The same wat you took it off. No adjustment should be needed unless you have tampered with it previously

2005 kawasaki KX... | Answered on Apr 19, 2011


your probably runnin to rich i would run 36:1 to 40:1

2005 kawasaki KX... | Answered on Mar 30, 2011


change the plug then drain the carb and ck compression and that will tell u the story

2005 kawasaki KX... | Answered on Sep 16, 2010


if your talking about fuel mix oil the best is either amsoil or red line fully synthetic oil is the best out there(not cheep though)...if your talking about engine oil (wet clutch)i think bel-ray is the best..(thats what i have had best luck and less breakdowns with)

2005 kawasaki KX... | Answered on Sep 05, 2010


WOW, I haven't ran into this for decades. Well, I would bet, the circlip that keeps the shift shaft into place is missing, the bike fall hard on the left side sometime? Well, if the clip is missing, the shaft can move to the right and there is a lever with a hooked arm that rides upon a shift drum (all trail bikes have similar system) and moving the shift lever, moves the hooked arm over the drum, causing a shift in gears. If the shaft is loose, the hooked arm will eventually come off the drum. Not sure, but it's probably under the r/s cover. This is a repair I did a lot in jr.high school for my friends. Not too hard.

2005 kawasaki KX... | Answered on Aug 11, 2010


http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmotorcycles/2005-kawasaki-motorcycle-kx125-kx125-m3/o/m3786

2005 kawasaki KX... | Answered on Jul 16, 2010

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