Top 20 1996 kawasaki ZX-6R Ninja - Page 3 Questions & Answers

Hi and welcome to FixYa,

If after the "...start with direct feed or starter fliud...", the bike will idle / run correctly, then it is not a carb problem. If will not idle / run correctly, then a carb problem.

Initially, it would appear that the problem would be restricted fuel flow from the tank through the petc0ck (fuelcut off valve). A way to check is to drain carb bowls individually, compare quantity and quality of fuel from each. Guesstimate if the collected / drained fuel is about right for the bowl size.

If on the otherhand, it is a carb issue (float closing early hence too little fuel in the bowl), then a carb pulldown maybe required. The illustration here would give you an exploded parts diagram.

This CV carb tuning procedures may interest you.

Good luck and thank you for asking FixYa.

Actually u can reach in and just pull the 3 prong connector right off of the bulb.Then pull off the rubber cover with the tab that is at the top of the circular rubber cover. The bulb is held in by a small wire that hooks on both sides. Replace the bulb and reverse the steps.There is no need to remove any fairings to replace the bulb.

There is a box or there is not a box? I am confusec by your comment.

Normally, I would expect to find a battery under the seat or through a side cover. If you have a empty box and no power, id guess you dont have a battery. Are there wires close to this box that may or may not be under the backseat?

I think if I were you, before you get too far down this project path, id make a trip to the Kawasaki dealership in your area and make friends with the parts guy.

The carbs need to be re-tuned for the exhaust. It doesn't seem like like it needs to be rejetted just idle mixtures adjusted. this would be something that a mechanic should do because there are four carbs and they need to be syncronized with each other

1-3-4-2 when you consider as 1rst the far left hand cylinder as you ride the bike.But you need to know that the firing coils are engaged in pairs.
The 1rst and 4rth fire together and the 2nd and 3rd too.The difference is that while the 1rst fires the mixture the 4rth fires in the exhausts inside the cylinder etc

Bad seal in the pump itself. It is like a weep hole in a water pump. It is letting you know it is time to be replaced.

92 octane would be your best bet if you wanna use typical gasoline from any gas station.

have your coil tested if it turns over and everything but just wont fire it`s 99.9% of the time the coil

Hi again,

Appreciate the postback.

A couple of ideas you may want to explore:

• clean the fuel tank, built-in filter of the fuel valve, the fuel-valve itself;
• check the fuel line, it may have fattened and restricts flow. Likewise check for kinks, sharp bends;
• float settings of the carbs;
• replace/remove external fuel filter if one is being used;
  
• might as well check for vacuum leaks especially at the front of the rubber coupling and the clamps;
• further check for air leaks at the base mount of the air filter/cleaner box and how they is mated to the carbs.

Cheers.

According to the Wemoto web site, they look the same (price, measurements and picture) so I would say yes it will fit

Here you go.. http://www.manualedereparatie.info/en/download/Kawasaki-ZX-6R-00-02-Service-Manual.html Please rate me if I helped you thanks... ;-)

Modern day petrol is rubbish it starts to go stale quickly.you will need to at least drain the carburettors off ,there are drain screws right on the bottom of them ,undo them about two turns and empty them then do them back up and try again. U will need to take the tank off first.

Being 100 percent you have fresh quality gas that has NO, NONE, ZERO ethanol, also called oxygenated gas. Companies ripping off the public with adding 10 percent alcohol account for 50% of my business nowadays. Use a premium recreational fuel that clearly states "contains no ethanol/alcohol", drain out everything you can, start there. If no help, most likely the carbs will have to come apart, if you're handy get a service manual from for example amazon and go to work. Best of luck to you.

To balance the carbs you will need sychronizing gauges and a petrol supply to run the engine while you adjust the carbs into balance I'vhttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t0qf11BOx6oe added a youtube video to give you an idea of how to go about this task

first thing is your cable good on your throttle , is this a hand choke do u have a broken vacuum hose going to the carb this sounds like a vacuum leak , could be a broken gasket between the carb and the intake , loose bolts , pull out your plugs and ck if they have carbon build up on them which would be black if so clean them up and find you vacuum leak , could be other things but this is where to start , oh is the gas good and are you getting enough fuel to the carb ck the gas filter , could also be out of timing , but start at the carb ,make sure you have good gas , ck could be bad plug wire ,

1990s kwaks have soft carbs and tend to wear quicker than they should. see if you can get hold of a younger set even on loan and try them but take your time to label every bit you disconect them as its easy to get mixxed up. classic symptom of this is that over time it was taking longer to start good luck

There's something wrong or damaged in the selectors. Get a manual and see how easy it is to access the selectors, it varies from make to make, you may find you only have to get inside the outer cases to replace a part of the shifter and its no great drama.

Have you replaced your exhurst system if you have did you put the O2 sensor back in as f1 error code is for this sensor and your CPU can not tell if the engine is running correctly and will shut the engine down when a gear is selected

Unless you have a few special tools and EXCELLANT mechanical ability, this should be left to a professional. It may look easy, and it is to a professional, but there are more things to consider. You may have to remove the engine from the frame?.. completely cleaning and prepping both the cylinder and head surfaces for re-assembly. then....re-time both cams to the correct crankshaft location ... checking the valves for sealing, new exhaust gaskets, cam cover gaskets, check intake boots for cracking/leaks... then setting ALL the valve clearances to spec... You get the idea... getting it redone is ALWAYS more expensive than having it done right the first time, MAKE SURE the shop warranties (IN WRITING) their work! (I guarantee my 2-cycle race motors for 1 race! PERIOD!) In 35+ years only had 1 break.. it broke the crankshaft end off in the main bearing ... (factory defect) BUT, I PAID FOR ALL PARTS and repaired it free!! $$$ouch!!!

When the old one already was leaking, you first have to let the head flattened by a special service centre, or els you will blow out the new gasket within days. These kind of jobs are better done by a workshop. It will cost some more, but in the end it is done well and you won't run into trouble too soon.