I have a 93 legacy since new, it`s an "L"4dr auto trans. under117k alway`s maintained,babied `n garaged. Recently had front to back exhaust replace for state inspection. Almost from the day I picked it up from Midas a hard start symptom began ,At first only when motor was stone cold, intermittent check engine light.Then runs/ starts great when started`n at run temp. Now hard starting slowly getting worse and occuring at running temp when not so just a few weeks ago. Still runs great at run temp! Check engine light still intermittant. Don`t mean to cry on your shoulders but thanks to the economy i`m unemployed. No equip to check code . Any suggestions ? Thank you in advance.

I doubt the ECM from a C body would work on your Century. I would probably buy a used computer and prom from a car exactly like yours. The prom is calibrated to the body style, engine, and trans. Each year and model can be different due to emissions standards.

Sounds like the regalator could be going bad and needs adjusting

I have a 93 legacy. Subaru's always run in front wheel drive until a sensor tells the computer the front wheels are not turning the same speed as the rear wheels( spining on ice or sand etc.). At that point all wheels will be driven though a clutch to the rear wheels. This is not good if the car needs to be towed with the front wheels in the air! This "all wheel drive" can be shut down for towing. Under the hood on my 93, there is an in line fuse holder on the pass. side of car behind the front strut mount. Open the top of the holder and it will be empty, put in a fuse (10 or 20 amp or close) , this completes a circuit and shuts down the rear wheels. I don't know if the your 97 has this in the same place, but it must have one some place. hope this can help you.

depends on weather it is auto or standard trans
does it have ac is it original exhaust is it lowered or raised
is it 4x4

you have left out too many variables
just get a couple of quotes from the local guys
or if you have a heart on to do it your self get a chilton or haynes book from chapters or auto zone

could be a TCU fault (trans ecu) or a bad speed sensor (there are 2) on the trans.

hands down the trans...under optimal conditions I have done this repair in under an hour. If you were to remove the engine for this repair you are going to struggle aligning the input shaft from trans into new clutch plate when re-assembling. The trans is so light weight a jack is not entirely needed at all and no fluids, coolant or oil would have to be drained as well.If the exhaust Y pipe comes down without any bolt removal problems ,you are basically home free but do remeber to drive out the roll pins in the DOJ (transmission side axle joint)

Rear end is leaking fluid. With the LS2 Vettes this is a common problem with them. The seal has gone bad on the main housing. Easy to change yourself and can be fixed yourself

Grinding noises are never a good thing. You didn't say if stick or automatic but I believe your'e talking about an auto. Grinding always indicates some degree of "hard part" damage which requires trans overhaul.
I'd ignore service intervals and change trans fluid and filter at least every 30k. You have done well at 206k but perhaps could have streched it a bit further. Always follow severe service intervals (the manufacturers definition of severe is just about anything other than being parked in the garage) If well maintained, you are the best judge of your vehicles condition and expected lifespan. Consider any previous repair work and ongoing problems (if any) when making decisions. If you have a 4.0 engine I've seen many of these go well over 300K. !!! Good luck with it.

You really need to have a good look under it around the Exhaust pipe run. Usually this means putting it up on ramps.

I think for ease of diagnosis - go to a small garage and ask them for a quote for repair. Once it's on the ramps - have a look yourself.
If you think their quote is too high - get a second opinion, or if you are competent enough - do the work yourself. At least you will hopefully find the problem for free.

It can be as easy as a leak around a screw-on oil filter, or as complicated as a failed main crank seal - which often requires engine removal and splitting the gearbox off it.
Best to get a free quote anyway.

Water introduced through the fuel system. Drain tank and lines, refill, and add HEET.