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It's unikely to be the cranshaft, as that problem would not go away. It could be your ignition wires -- replacing those is not that expensive, and may cure the misfire problem. My Buick had this problem and replaicng the plugs and ignition wires frixed it. But have you had a service place read the error messages and diagnose it?
i would get vehicle on a scanner and check live data.
could be a faulty coil pack or injector on cylinder 4. Try putting the coil pack from cylinder 4 onto cylinder 1 and rescan.
If the fault moves to cylinder 1 the coil pack you moved is at fault.
You may have to replace the whole coil pack if individual units are not used on your vehicle.
The injector process is same as above but a bit more tricky due to the fuel pressure in the line...be careful!
If swapping these has no effect you wil have to carry out a compression check on all cylinders and see howthey look against cyl 4.
The shaking is the misfire, the smoke is unburnt fuel.
Dont drive it in this condition you will destroy the catalytic convertor.
I assume the vehicle has a regular service and the spark plugs are in good condition.
note...when this prob is resolved..change the oil and filter, it will be contaminated by now.
Roger
It can be many things but i would start to change or clean de sparks plugs, then fuel filter and last find a cheap way to see if motor mounts are broken.
You've already eliminated the spark plug & wireset, distributor cap & rotor. Sounds like your car needs a tune-up, specifically, the PCV (positive crankcase ventilation) valve, and/of the EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) valve.
Components checked/replaced during a tune-up are: air filter motor oil motor oil filter breather filter fuel filter(s) fuel strainer PCV valve EGR valve spark plugs spark plug wires ECM or distributor cap & rotor cabin air filter transmission oil filter transmission oil engine coolant check all vacuum hoses and lines
Troubleshooting the no-start condition - from the 1990 Mitsu Mighty Max Repair Manual:
Priority Action Part Type -- Cause 1 Inspect Battery -- Battery Discharged or Faulty. 2 Inspect Battery Cable -- Corroded, Broken, Shorted or Poorly Connected Battery Cable. 3 Inspect Distributor Cap -- Distributor Cap Cracked or Burned. 3 Inspect Fuel Filter -- Clogged or Dirty Fuel Filter. 5 Inspect Ignition Coil -- Faulty Ignition Coil. 6 Inspect Wireset -- Worn, Damaged or Faulty Spark Plug Wire(s). 7 Inspect Spark Plug -- Incorrectly Gapped or Fouled Spark Plug(s). 8 Inspect Starter -- Starter Motor Faulty. 9 Inspect Fuel Pump -- Low Fuel Pressure. 10 Inspect Solenoid Switch -- Faulty Starter Solenoid Switch. 11 Inspect Fuel Pump Relay -- Faulty Fuel Pump Relay. 12 Inspect Fuel Injector Pressure Regulator -- Faulty Fuel Injector Pressure Regulator. 13 Inspect Ignition Switch -- Improperly Connected or Faulty Ignition Switch. 14 Inspect Starter Drive -- Faulty Starter Drive. 15 Inspect Fuel Injector -- Dirty or Worn Fuel Injectors. 16 Inspect Fuel Pump Strainer -- Clogged or Dirty Fuel Pump Strainerat. 17 Inspect Engine Control Computer -- Incorrect Operating Information Being Delivered and Sent From The EEC. 18 Inspect Fuel Tank -- Fuel Tank Empty. 19 Inspect Carburetor -- Carburetor Flooded or Faulty Choke. 20 Inspect Distributor -- Worn, Loose, or Incorrectly Installed Distributor.
Since the engine cranks, the battery, starter motor/starter motor solenoid are most likely good, so suspect everything else on the list. When you narrow it down, re-post with a more specific question about that particular component, since 100s of components must operate nearly perfectly for a vehicle to actually start.
Priority Action Part Type -- Cause 1 Inspect Battery -- Battery Discharged or Faulty. 2 Inspect Battery Cable -- Corroded, Broken, Shorted or Poorly Connected Battery Cable. 3 Inspect Battery Cable Connector -- Broken/Corroded/Loose. 4 Inspect Fuel Filter -- Clogged or Dirty Fuel Filter. 5 Inspect Ignition Coil -- Faulty Ignition Coil. 6 Inspect Wireset (aka Spark Plug Wires) -- Worn, Damaged or Faulty Spark Plug Wire(s). 7 Inspect Spark Plug -- Incorrectly Gapped or Fouled Spark Plug(s). 8 Inspect Starter -- Starter Motor Faulty. 9 Inspect Fuel Pump -- Low Fuel Pressure. 10 Inspect Solenoid Switch -- Faulty Starter Solenoid Switch. 11 Inspect Fuel Pump Relay -- Faulty Fuel Pump Relay. 12 Inspect Fuel Injector Pressure Regulator -- Faulty Fuel Injector Pressure Regulator. 13 Inspect Ignition Switch -- Improperly Connected or Faulty Ignition Switch. 14 Inspect Starter Drive -- Faulty Starter Drive. 15 Inspect Fuel Injectors -- Dirty or Worn Fuel Injectors. 16 Inspect Fuel Pump Strainer (inside fuel tank) -- Clogged or Dirty Fuel Pump Strainer. 17 Inspect Engine Control Computer -- Incorrect Operating Information Being Delivered and Sent From The EEC (faulty computer) 18 Inspect Fuel Tank -- Fuel Tank Empty. 19 Inspect Carburetor -- Carburetor Flooded or Faulty Choke. 20 Inspect Distributor Cap -- Worn, Loose, Cracked, or Incorrectly Installed Distributor Cap. 21 Inspect Distributor Rotor -- Worn, Loose, Burnt contact surface 22 Test/Inspect Neutral Safety Switch -- Faulty Neutral Safety Switch
need more info (need to know what type of ignition system your vehicle has: (1) traditional ignition coil /distributor system, or (2) electronic ignition, but lack of spark problems are usually a faulty coil on traditional vehicles, and on the newer electronic ignition cars, total lack of spark would be a faulty ECM (electronic control module) - partial lack of spark (diagnosed with a HEI (high energy ignition) spark tester kit), would be caused by a faulty coil pack (in the waste spark system), where there's 1 coil pack for every 2 spark plugs. I bought my HEI igntion testere kit for $20, but Harbor Freight sells a similar unit for $10. Hope this helps.
There is no cap and rotor, as the vehicles igntion system is DIS (digital ignition system). The recommended tune-up on these motors require sparkplug and coil replacement. The coil type in this vehicle is COPs (coil over plugs). Usually moist and oxidation develope on the sparkplug chamber walls from faulty or worn coil boots. This causes the coil to short, they must be replaced at 75,000 miles at the same time the sparkplugs are replaced. Typical symtoms are: Vehicle stalls (restarts and runs normal), intermitted jerks/sputter while driving, misfires, rough idle, severe power loss. Hopefully this helps
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