If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/david_4c166ba81493f541
SOURCE: Window stuck - 1998 Forester Limited
I installed speakers in my door panels.
Pop up the window controlls unplug switches,
remove plastic screw hiders to expose phillips screws
remove screw from door latch lever
pull out on door panel, then lift up
its not too hard good luck
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SOURCE: Forester 1998 Battery & brake light switch on
Check to see if your Alternator belt is still on.. If it's connected to your power steering it won't work and your battery will not charge. Also if you hear a whining noise in your engine replace the belt if it's there.
SOURCE: Subaru 1998 wrx hesitation
Hi , I had that problem with my wrx.Turned out the o2 sensor in the exhaust was faulty. The hasitation came on only on the open road.
SOURCE: Procedure for replacing rear wheel bearings 2000 Forester
i'm assuming you don't have a hubshark,this is a tool that will alllow you to remove the bearing while the knuckle is attached to the car,you may be able to rent this tool at a auto prts store .if not you need to remove the entie knuckle,first remove the trailing arm bolt,then the lateral link bolt{long and stubborn bolt},disassemble the brake shoes and parking brake cable,abs sensor if equipped the knuckle to strut bolt{no marking necessary they are not eccentric} then you need a to use or borrow a press to remove hub and bearings good luck
SOURCE: 2000 subaru forester ignition coil wiring
Are there any other possible problems, or you are just not receiving spark at all now?
The coilpack could be dead and just need replaced. If you have a voltmeter or a test light, check the wiring on both sides of the coilpack harness to make sure it is receiving power.
I don't believe Subaru used ignitors past '99, but if they did, your should be located on the firewall behind the throttle body. Make sure it's plugged in and receiving power.
Coil packs do go bad from time to time. I had to replace mine in my
'98 Impreza a while back.
Goodluck!
The
following are the general instructions on the start of diagnosing any
electronically controlled engine or transmission problem.
The
engine and the automatic transmission (transmission control is only
for automatics, engine is still computer controlled no matter the
transmission type) in this vehicle are computer controlled and in
most cases when a fault occurs a fault code is stored in the memory
of the computer control module. There are exception to this, such as
the Mass Airflow Meter and fuel pressure problems. What must be done
is to have all the basic testing done such as a scan of the system
for fault codes as well as a check with a live data scanner tool for
engine functions that are not within range of normal, a trained
technician is required to know what is correct and what isn't, then
based on careful diagnostics done from a factory repair manual the
correct part is replaced or the wiring repaired or the computer
replaced (known as the PCM), which is very rarely the problem. Other
basic checks must be done as well such as mechanical problems with
the engine as well as engine state of tune and mileage on the engine.
The transmission can have mechanical issues as well such as no gear
engagement at all or a failed pump or other pressure related
problems.
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