Fuel pump stops working,Then runs again later

seems as the PSI based switch maybe having issues inside the pump most likely

Has the filter ever been changed? Need to know year and model of the truck. Fuel filters can be near the tank or under the hood. Filters are usually separate from the fuel pump.

Fuel filter for sure 100% needs to be changed.Could losing pressure.Live alone fuel pump for now.

yes, are you sure that you did not just run out of gas, because the gage was not working? it sounds like they may have not gotten the fuel pump module back in the tank properly that would explain the no fuel gage, also when they had the pump out they may have damaged the wiring to the pump that could cause it to fail.

The relay may be faulty [ test that first ], but it's most likely the pump that's bad.

I guess there could be debris in the tank - but the fuel filter will catch it and clog up (is that a hint, or what),

Other possible is the ignition coil... the are plastic inside and they dry out and crack inside.... when they are hot - open circuit... When they are cool, closed circuit - working...

so, next time it dies, check for spark. Otherwise, replace the fuel filter (hopefully you have one OUTSIDE the fuel tank).
Let us know - please... -Jim

Have you had your fuel tank flushed there may be small piece of grit that is clogging the fuel pump, after sitting over night, The pressure now released comes loose only to reappear later, If this is happening more as tank near empty This is most likely the problem Had a similar issue with my 89' 300TE and she's still going strong after 360,000 miles

1994 Chevy Camaro 3.4L V6



Fuel Pump Relay Location
Behind LH Dash Mat Location:
The fuel pump relay is attached foot rest bracket under carpet, forward of left kick panel

Hey My Fellow Member of the Auto DIY World & World I Hope this Brings smiles and A solution to your Problem as it is My Goal and Mission to Help you .. EASY now rejakwilson

Have you had the fuel tank inspected/cleaned? This may have been done whent he fuel pump was being replaced and there was access to your tank interior.

If you have crud in your tank, especially if it's leaves, paper or flakes of old coating/paint, then it can float around and slosh in your tank and at the most inopportune time get sucked over the fuel intake for the pump and choke off or restrict supply. This can give the symptoms you describe, where there are spells of repeated weird symptoms, and then it changes symptoms or appears to dissappear for a while when the crud floats away from the pump. As soon as the fluid motion of the tank brings it back over to the fuel intake, the restriction starts again. Then when you stop the car, and the suction stops and lets it drift off and fall to the bottom of the tank, it seems to be fine again until fuel flow again sucks the offending item back against the intake. I've seen this on three occasions in the past with the same symptoms as you describe and it also foxxed repair shops to no end. On one occasiosn a guy's solution to a rusty tank was to use a tank coating kit. However, if you don't prep the tank and follow the instructions precisely (which he did not) the coating doesn't bond and can pull away from the tank walls and break up into small sheets that can cause the issues I describe above.

Hope this helps

Your fuel pump is sticking and not pumping, this is common if you run the fuel down to less than 1/4 full, the fuel pump needs the gas to cool itself, below a 1/4 tank the pump is not getting cooled and after repeatably running low on fuel it overheats and fails. Running the car near 1/2 tank extends the pump life to many years more than running tank below a 1/4 full..