Bolt cutter jaws are not parallel--- tip is closer than at the base of jaw. how to adjust this?

Using a standard harmonic balancer puller with 3 bolts that are just a bit too large for the 3 openings if possible., Tap them with a die large enough to get a decent grip with the bolts and remove it like any other. If that won't work then just drill and tap 3 holes for the remover. I generally use 10 MM bolts when I do mine.

To solve U0500 problem, you'll have to remove the muffler, crankcase and other components blocking the valve chamber. Then, remove the cylinder head bolts (label for easy re-installation) Adjust the jaws of the valve spring compressor until they touch the top and bottom of the valve chamber Push the tool in to compress the spring and tighten the jaws Remove the retainers and lift out the valves , compressors and springs

Seems like a lot of trouble to remove the mounting panel. If you can get to the back of the panel you should be able to get a pair of grippers onto the nut. If the bolt spins there must be some gap between the back of the bolt head and the licence plate. Use the tips of a pair of side cutters ("hollow" side out) to immobilise the bolt then use a dremel with a cut off disc to cut off the head which lies between the jaws of the cutters. Of course if you have a really strong grip you might be able to cut off the head with the side cutters.

I had the same problem. I started by applying penetrating oil to the bolt and then I tried a 2 jaw puller. But the jaws would not fit between the arm and the windshield. I then used a 2 1/2 inch "c" clamp and it fit perfectly. Turned the clamp bolt a few times, and the arm popped off the stud in about 10 seconds.

You don't. There is a special 3 jaw puller, specific for Chrysler products and a few other vehicles. I comes with three various length rods that slide into the hole in the end of the crankshaft and into the end of the puller bolt to obtain the correct length. The jaws of the puller have slots rather than hooks that slide onto machined surfaces in the inner part of the damper. These pullers are available for rent at auto parts stores. usually it's free, you just leave a deposit. trying to use a standard puller on the outside of the damper will damage the damper.

you'll need a three jaw puller and a long bolt that is one size smaller than the crank pulley bolt. The bolt will need to seat in the end of the hole for the crank pulley bolt and still be long enough to allow the crank pulley to be removed.

The three jaw pulley can then be installed so that it locks onto the three tabs in the center of the pulley. The center of the three jaw will then push on the bolt head and pull the pulley off.

OTC make a tool just for this, but a three jaw and a long bolt will do the job.

I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

There on very tight, did you insert a bolt in the hole, where the bolt for the crank bolt goes on, insert a long where it sticks out pass the pulley about 3 to 4 inches, but thinner bolt in there, and the tip of the puller on it, tighten the puller, and it will come out. I would get two of those bolt's, because it will start to bent, and you might need to used the other bolt to finsh taking it out.

the were wrong a three jaw that clamps around the outer rim will damage it and still not remove it. you need either the fixed steering wheel puller type that installs with 3 bolts or the puller that grabs the inner area of pulley at the spokes.if no 3 bolt holes on pulley then you have the later type and is a speciall tool check local dealer or take engine there and have them remove

There are some jaws,on he door latch,make sure the door is unlocked,and pull the jaws open,while pulling on the door handle like you are going to open it,the jaws on the door latch should release and open,then try and shut the door closed.

1. Loosen the wheel nuts slightly. 2. Raise the front of the car and support it with safety stands in the proper locations. 3. Remove the wheel nuts and front wheel. 4. Remove the brake hose mounting bolts. 5. Remove the caliper bracket mounting bolts, and hang the caliper to one side. CAUTION: To prevent accidental damage to the caliper or brake hose, use a short piece of wire to hang the caliper from the undercarriage. 6. On ABS equipped vehicles, remove the wheel sensor wire bracket, then remove the wheel sensor from the knuckle but do not disconnect the wheel sensor connector. NOTE: Use ball joint removers to separate the ball joints from the suspension or tie-rod end. 7. Clean any dirt or grease off the ball joint. Remove the cotter pin from the tie-rod end ball joint castle nut and remove the nut. 8. Apply grease to the special tool on the areas shown. This will ease installation of the tool and prevent damage to the pressure bolt threads. 9. Install a 10mm hex nut on the ball joint. Be sure that the hex nut is flush with the ball joint pin end to prevent damage to the threaded end of the ball joint. 10. Adjust the jaw spacing by turning the pressure bolt. NOTE: If necessary, apply penetrating type lubricant to loosen the ball joint. 11. Once the tool is in place, turn the adjusting bolt as necessary to make the jaws parallel. Then hand tighten the pressure bolt, and recheck the jaws to make sure they are still parallel as pictured above. 12. With a wrench, tighten the pressure bolt until the ball joint shaft pops loose from the steering arm. WARNING: WEAR EYE PROTECTION. THE BALL JOINT CAN BREAK LOOSE SUDDENLY AND SCATTER DIRT OR OTHER DEBRIS IN YOUR EYES. 13. Remove the tool, then remove the nut from the end of the ball joint and pull the ball joint out of the steering/suspension arm. Inspect the ball joint boot and replace if damaged. 14. Remove the cotter pin from the lower arm ball joint castle nut, and remove the nut. 15. Install a 12mm hex nut on the ball joint. Be sure that the hex nut is flush with the ball joint pin end, or the threaded section of the ball joint pin might be damaged by the ball joint remover. 16. Use the ball joint remover, 32mm, as shown to separate the lower ball joint and lower arm. NOTE: If necessary, apply penetrating type lubricant to loosen the ball joint. 17. Remove the knuckle protector. 18. Remove the cotter pin from the upper ball joint castle nut, and remove the nut. 19. Install a 10mm hex nut on the ball joint. Be sure that the hex nut is flush with the ball joint pin end, or the threaded section of the ball joint pin might be damaged by the ball joint remover. 20. Use the ball joint remover as shown to separate the upper ball joint and knuckle. NOTE: If necessary, apply penetrating type lubricant to loosen the ball joint. 21. Pull the knuckle outward and remove the driveshaft outboard joint from the knuckle by tapping the driveshaft end using a plastic hammer, then remove the knuckle. 22. Remove the knuckle from the hub unit. 23. Remove the four flange bolts, then separate the hub unit from the brake disc.