I experienced multiple no-starts with PATS lock-out over many months. Would crank later. Eventually experienced three complete shut-offs while driving followed by no-start and PATS lock-out. Had to be towed. Sent SJB to a auto computer company for diagnostics and they said the programming was corrupted. They re-programmed and so far I have not had any more problems. But I'm not sure I can trust it for long trips.
I think what's happening here is your power distribution box cables from the the battery and alternator have corrosion on them or they are loose and all of a sudden you loose power and get it back but the pats has been activated and when that happens you need to stop it with the key fob to get out of theft mode also check the battery cables all connections must be clean and tight do not use wire brushes on the battery cables and post it rips them apart causing loose connections and breaks in the power at times you must not be able to twist the cables alcohol or window cleaner and a rag will do a good job and when you see blueish green or white powdered acid build up use light steel wool 4/0 to remove it back to clean metal also do your starter cable lugs and your engine block ground and the fuse blades and relays under the hood and see if it stops it should and please post back to me in comments if it does fix it or doesn't so we can keep going to the final fix understand that I'm not there to check myself so you have to be specific in your post write down everything that you've done ok but my experience tells me your having a break in current and that will cause your nightmares described here also clean smart junction fuse and relays blades you should have your owners manual for fuse item locations if you don't go to Ford fleet.com and download your manual then go to roadside emergencies and your power distribution and smart junction box diagrams are there with values and relay locations check for all cables that there's no corossion traveling inside the insulation to good luck Stephen I'm pretty confident that this is a loss of power symptom
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Yes it can but need to find out how it was corrupted
SOURCE: 2000 Blazer Cranks, Won't Start
i have a 2000 blazer 4.3 it cranks but wont start then sometimes it will start and either die 10 seconds later or die when you give it gas or put it in gear. i have replaced throttle position sensor, fuel regulator, fuel filter and fuel pump plz help
SOURCE: Car would not start, after siiting for an hour it did start .
mcdevito75 here, BEST BET, let the shop do this work, too many un forseen problems could come up. The stalling and unable to start for a while could also be a bad ignition module, no test for this part, but I would have it changed, for if it is a bad ignition module, all this other work will not fix the stalling and later start of your car.
SOURCE: I have a 2007 Ford
hoinest advice ---leave it in the box and put it on E bay ,just look on here at how many questions on vehicles that will not start and have this sort of device,also is it legal to fit this sort of device in your neck of the woods ,because its not legal here in spain or the UK other member states iam not sure about ,something to do with leaving a unattended vehicle running as a kid could drive it off
SOURCE: 2003 F250 SUPER DUTY CREW CAB, GAS TRIED TO START
Welcome to Fixya!
If the engine cranks over normally when you attempt to start you car, but the engine does not start, the problem may be NO FUEL, NO SPARK or NO COMPRESSION. The engine needs adequate fuel pressure, a properly timed spark and normal compression to start.
TIP: To find why the engine won't start, remove the air inlet tube from the throttle body, push the throttle open and spray a small amount of aerosol starting fluid into the engine. Crank the engine. IF it has spark and compression but NO FUEL, it will start and run a few seconds before dying. If it does NOT start, it probably has NO SPARK.
TIP: Another method to check for spark is to pull a spark plug wire off of a spark plug (if it has plug wires, coil-on-plug ignitions do not) and place the open end of the plug wire near a metal surface on the engine. Have a helper crank the engine while you watch for a spark. DO NOT hold the wire while doing this as it can shock you. If you see a spark, the problem is not spark, but most likely NO FUEL or NO COMPRESSION. If you do not see a spark, the problem is in the IGNITION CIRCUIT.
TIP: Proper fuel pressure is critical for fuel injected engines to start and run. You should hear the fuel pump inside the fuel tank buzz for a couple of seconds when the ignition is turned on (no buzz means the pump is not running and the engine is not getting fuel). You can smell the tailpipe for gasoline vapors after cranking the engine. If you smell gas, the problem is likely not fuel but NO SPARK. You can also remove the plastic cap and press the schraeder valve test fitting on the fuel rail to see if there is any fuel pressure to the engine (not a very accurate test because fuel pressure must be at a certain level for the engine to start, for that you need a gauge). Even so, no fuel at the fuel rail would tell you fuel is not getting to the engine.
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