Here's the link and I'm sure you will get the solution of your problem -
https://www.reliable-store.com/products/ford-fusion-2006-2009-workshop-service-repair-manual-download
SOURCE: Do I change water pump when having timing belt changed
I would go to auto zone and get a diagram and the timing belt and do it yourself and the water pump (no it does not have to be changed everytime the timing belt is changed but if the car has over 60,000miles then it is best to change them both) it is not that hard especially if the car is not out of time just make sure you disconnect the negative side of the battery
SOURCE: how to replace an alternator belt on a 2003 mazda
Hi there...my name is Keith..and yes..you will have to take the surpentine belt off..and it no fun..but thats just what you will have to do..im sorry..and it will take some fussin and cussin ..or take it to a shop..im sorry i dont have a better outlook..and if you need further assistance..write me back
SOURCE: 2008 ford fusion alerts on dashboard
You can download a free owners manual from this site, it will identify all the dashboard alerts:
https://www.fleet.ford.com/maintenance/owners_manuals/results.asp
SOURCE: ford fusion 3 1600 diesel cam belt mileage change
75,000 miles for heavy urban city driving.
100,000 miles if you drive a lot of freeway.
Mix driving should be under 90,000 miles.
If your the timing guide (on the side of the timing belt cover) making noise then you should change it ASAP.
A loose timing belt will offset timing on the injector and decrease mileage.
Testimonial: "Excellent, just the information required. Many thanks"
SOURCE: Water pump bearing froze. Belt melted on road to
GoeffreyH is not correct. On this engine the water pump is run by a small, single, separate belt which cannot be adjusted by the alternator because it (and the water pump itself) are on the opposite end of the engine from the crank pulley and other accessories, such as alternator, A/C, etc. which are driven by the main serpentine belt. The water pump is driven by a pulley on the end of one camshaft. Your confusion stems from the change from the old system, in which a longer belt was used with a tensioner in the traditional fashion, and the new system on 2004 vans where the tensioner was eliminated and a 'stretch fit' belt was used. Stretch fit belts have a springy component (like a rubber band) and keep their own tension this way by being stretched a bit to fit over the pulleys then holding snug against them. The problem is that some parts books erroneously call for the old belt for vans which need the new one. So the first belt your mechanic got was longer (to fit over the extra tensioner pulley) and static (not stretchy). On these newer vans, you can still see the mounting boss where the tensioner would have gone, it's part of the castings so it's still there. That's why it looks like there's a place for a tensioner but like none was ever there. Both your observations are correct. The only thing you need to do now is make sure your new belt is the right one, that it's a stretch fit belt, so it maintains tension (otherwise the water pump pulley will eventually start to slip and spin too slowly and the van will overheat) and also that it's not TOO tight, which will put you out of another water pump. The correct belt, if it's from NAPA, would be 030250SF.
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