20 Most Recent 2001 Dodge Ram 2500 Truck Questions & Answers

Question edited for clarity. Question moved to model category. In the link, but you could test it with a multimeter or a test lamp. all the wiring https://www.justanswer.com/dodge/343b4-98-dodge-ram-2500-fuel-pump-had-12v-cranking-relay.html More here https://www.google.com/search?q=2000+Dodge+Ram+2500+fuel+pump+wiring ..

From your description it could be almost anything from a blocked fuel tank breather to a bad wiring connection with lots of stuff in between. You need a few clues and as it takes only ten minutes of cooling before you can restart they won't be easy to find without luck or unless a fault code has been stored in the memory. I suggest you begin with a code read and then scan the ECU to check any freeze frame data. Few electronic sensor faults will actually stop an engine but the crank/cam sensor and/or circuit will, though if such a thing had happened the engine check light would have come on as soon as or just before the engine cut. Without the afore-mentioned luck such a problem as yours is likely to be found by careful and systematic checks designed to discover what is definitely not at fault. and then concentrating energies onto what remains - even if it means springing into action to use that ten minute window for more revealing checks. A co-pilot checking live data with a scanner while you drive would be a fine aid to discovering an elusive electronic fault, an obd recorder would offer an alternative. The trouble is the fault might not be electronic... Clues are needed...

Connect the fuel pump to direct 12 volt power. That checks the pump. Then test the relay https://www.google.com/search?q=2001+dodge+ram+2500+diesel+5.9+cummins+fuel+pump+relay+location

WELL I CANT TELL YOU YES OR NO BUT IT CAN BE DONE YOU WILL NOT HAVE ANTIE LOCK ANY MORE OK SO YOU WILL SKID WHEN YOU HIT THE BRAKES IF YOU NEED TO STOP FAST LIKE OLDER CARS WITH OUT ANTIELOCK BRAKES HOPE THIS HELPS YOU MAKE THE RIGHT DISSION TO FIX IT RIGHT.

It sounds like vacuum is not getting to the vent, heat and A/C controls. Find the vacuum can. It may be under the hood on one of the inner fenders. The "one-way" check valve is usually located in the line and close to the can, make sure it works properly. The valve could be the very thing that's causing the problem. Trace the lines back to the vacuum block at the intake manifold or fire-wall, and also back to where the line goes thru the fire-wall. Check the can for leaks or obvious holes. They used to be just a plain metal can, but it could be a plastic ball. Check the lines as you go, for breaks and rub-thru's. Move the controls thru all settings and listen for vent door movement. Worst case is a bad vacuum motor or air flow position selector switch, and/or a faulty Blend Door Actuator. If you have been driving around with the Temperature knob or control set at the same spot for months, move it from fully cold to fully hot several times and wait for the air temperature to change each time. This will help reset the blend door and vacuum control system. Hope this helps... Let me know what you find.

It sounds like the clockspring is defective. It should have a stored code in the airbag module for "drivers squib circuit open". A new clockspring should take care of it. Disconnect the battery, remove the steering wheel and the upper and lower column shouds to gain access. After reassembly, turn the key on first before reconnecting the battery. That way if something went wrong with the repair and the airbag accidently deploys, you will be outside the vehicle safe from injury. I hope this helps.

check key --ign cylinder--ing switch for damage or wear

yes. at the very least the fan shroud and fan.

sounds like you may need to replace the electronic flasher. it is a relay located typically in the fuse panel inside the vehicle

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Have you checked the codes?
Mine was a faulty coil.... Twice. I made a heat shield for the second one.

If you have trouble in fixing your vehicles, try www.reliable-store com . Very helpful

Put in a can of Lucas Transmission Slip. This stuff fixed my 18 wheel in 100 miles and has lasted 50K since.

what you describe sounds like your hydroboost unit and if it is leaking you need to buy a new or rebuilt one. They are pretty easy to replace.

if the diference isnt that bad , change the compressor and find the leak, use contrast to find the leak

This is completely gear box fault. Instead of getting it working, try to replace it because this will happen again and again. If gear box fails , there are very rare chances that it can be repaired. In most cases, it has to be replaced. Performance Chip

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it sounds like issues with fuel did you change the fule filter ? did you go to an auto parts store to scan the OB2 (ECU) More Info Please !! W\e Are Here To Help !!!