Check your transmission fluid. Sounds like it needs topping up!
SOURCE: Can't shift into reverse ( manual transmission )
I have the same problem on my 2005 cts. The shifter fork has two rubber bushings that attach at the transmission that break or give way. I assume they did this for a softer feel and to avoid vibration but it leads to the selector not engaging well when you go the extreme direction of reverse on the shifter as there is too much deflection. I replaced the bushings with washers as spacers and it seems to work as a "McGyver" fix. I do intend to get the parts needed from Cadillac to restore it to factory standards. Hopefully they have the parts. To fix the problem you have to go under the car. To get good access you have to disconnect the exhaust and the driveshaft. I did it without this and just tormented my poor hands but I wasn't willing to do all the other work while in my driveway. You simply take the clip holding the fork shaft onto the transmission selector end off and slide the small shaft out. I also took off the shifter side of the fork to study the thing a bit better. That takes a 13mm and a small allen wrench, 4.5 or 3/16, can't remember. Then replace the bushings or do as I did and stack some washers so as to get rid of the slack between the inside of the fork and the gear selector on the transmission. Assemble and try. If you have as good dexterity and tenacity at your fingertips as I do, you'll curse the day you attempted doing this without taking out all the other stuff. If you don't, take out all the other stuff to make room for your hands. The space is very confined. Good luck.
SOURCE: rear liscese plate bulbs on 05 cadillac srx
First you have to take out the one and only screw in the rear hatch door - it's where the hand pull down is you use to close the hatch.
Then you have to pop all the plastic clips all the way around the plastic door panel, trying not to pull them out from the frame . If you do pull out the white plastic plugs from the frame you better make certain you take them off the plastic housing and insert them back into their frame holes - or you will never get the housing back on.
Once you have the housing loose disconnect the inside tail gate light wire to remove the whole thing. Then you have to remove 7 to 8 nuts from the back of entire License plate, back up bulb housing using a deep socket to get in there. Work it loose from the rear of the car and it will come out just enough to work on the lights.
This is tricky since the screw mounts don't give you much room to work with.
Once you have the license plate and back up bulb frame loose you will see the two housings for the license plate bulbs on top.
Slide out the license plate bulb lens and twist the bulb connection to remove the bulbs.
Replace both of them - you don't want to do this again in a month when the other one blows.
OPTIONAL:
Once you take out the bulbs you might see that the housing is melted where the bulb wanted to burn through. Drill two small holes one is each end of the housing before I put everything back together to release some of the heat.
Reverse the whole process to put everything back together. It's not easy.
Make sure you insert the cables through the opening for the hatch handle or it will kink and not work properly.
The bulbs come in a two pack of cost $4.95 .
SOURCE: 2001 mitsubishi eclipse. Automatic transmission
Transmission may be low on transmission fluid or the transmission fluid pump failed. If it's electrical, you can still get it in to gear, but would not shift gears. Good luck and keep me posted, check transmission fluid level and have the transmission line pressure tested. Before that check all your fuses.
SOURCE: how do you replace license
Hi,
First you have to take out the one and only screw in the rear
hatch door - it's where the hand pull down is you use to close the
hatch.
Then you have to pop all the plastic clips all the way
around the plastic door panel, trying not to pull them out from the
frame . If you do pull out the white plastic plugs from the frame you
better make certain you take them off the plastic housing and insert
them back into their frame holes - or you will never get the housing
back on.
Once you have the housing loose disconnect the inside
tail gate light wire to remove the whole thing. Then you have to remove
7 to 8 nuts from the back of entire License plate, back up bulb housing
using a deep socket to get in there. Work it loose from the rear of the
car and it will come out just enough to work on the lights.
This is tricky since the screw mounts don't give you much room to work with.
Once you have the license plate and back up bulb frame loose you will see the two housings for the license plate bulbs on top.
Slide out the license plate bulb lens and twist the bulb connection to remove the bulbs.
Replace both of them - you don't want to do this again in a month when the other one blows.
OPTIONAL:
Once you take out the bulbs you might see that
the housing is melted where the bulb wanted to burn through. Drill two
small holes one is each end of the housing before I put everything back
together to release some of the heat.
Reverse the whole process to put everything back together. It's not easy.
Make sure you insert the cables through the opening for the hatch handle or it will kink and not work properly.
The bulbs come in a two pack of cost $4.95 .
Take care
SOURCE: on a 2005 cadillac srx, v6, how are the cylinder
The firing order is 1-2-3-4-5-6. Cylinders are located on the driver's side front to rear of engine 1-3-5 passenger side front to rear 2-4-6.
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Check your transmission fluid. Sounds like it needs topping up!
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