Hi, How to remove ABS lamp failure on BMW 316 2000 mod.?

If your amber ABS lamp and the red "parking brake" warning lamp illuminate together without any prior pump constantly running problem; the pump motor wires are most likely broken.
The heat shrink tubing that seals the red/black power leads to the motor may have allowed water to enter. The copper conductor turns into a powdery green copper oxide over time due to electrolysis as a small current is applied to the motor all times (even when vehicle is off). The wires will look perfectly intact on the outside even though the copper conductor has been destroyed. The associated error codes will either be C0267 or C0268.
Initial problems will be an intermittent amber ABS and red BRAKE lamp illuminating simultaneously. Over time, the lamps will stay on constantly. In any of the circumstances, you have lost your ABS at all times... even when the lamps are off during the intermittent stage of the system failure.
Dealer specifies pump assembly must be replaced. Not necessary.
The wires can be resoldered to the motor terminal block and resealed with new heat shrink tubing and sensor safe silicone. Do not remove the motor from the pump housing as it is difficult to align the eccentric cam on the motor shaft with the pump mechanism.
This is a common problem that can be solved by resoldering the pump power leads. If the pump runs all the time and the red "BRAKE" lamp has illuminated after pulling the ABS fuse or unplugging the motor; the EBCM (ABS control module) will have to be rebuilt. This can be done for $100.
Both pump motor failure and EBCM failure can be repaired without costly replacement

I would try disconnecting battery again. Disconnect both cables and touch them together for a few seconds. This will reset all modules. Wierd that you had so many codes after just disconnecting battery. Sometimes very hard to tell if ecm is bad.

no year, car, are you kidding??? NO YEAR?
that makes any answers impossible.
speedo dead, but is odometer too?
gas gauge dead,
ABS full time failure
Brake lamps same (in dash or rear tail lamps too?)
does car drive?
does engine run.
is the CEL lamp on driving? check engine light or SES lamp.?
sorry for 20 questions but its a complex machine, and me blind. .

The brake lamp circuits on your 1997 BMW Z3 are pretty "old-school" and straight forward. Fuse #46 (15 Amp), located in the Front Power Distribution Box at the left rear side of the engine compartment supplies battery voltage to the brake light switch via the VIOLET/GREEN wire going into the switch. When the bake pedal is depressed, the voltage leaves the brake lamp switch on the BLUE/RED wire and supplies power to all of the brake lamp bulbs.

The brake lamp circuits do branch off and go to several control modules. This is ONLY for module INPUT to tell the module that the brakes are being applied. These modules include:
> Transmission Control Module
> Cruise Control Module
> ABS Control Module
> Slip Control Module

The ONLY way that any of these modules could be affecting the operation of your brake lamps is if there is an internal short to ground in the module that is causing the brake lamp fuse to blow.

If NONE of your brake lamps are working, the most likely causes are:
> Fuse #46 open (blown)
> Defective brake lamp switch
> Bad ground connection at ground G400 (Left side of luggage compartment)
> All 3 of your brake lamp bulbs burned out.

Yes, the BLUE/RED wire could be broken as well, but I would check all the other things listed above first.

Seems a related electronics issue and it is more likely a ABS failure. It seems to act on the brakes and thus can cause the pads to grind. It will be best to have all the wheel sensors checked before we need to suspect the ABS unit.
It is best to take consensus with BMW before you can remove any part.

If the second gear problem happened just as the ABS lamp came on.....Car is in Limp Mode.

ABS system has set likely a code about safety...ie" Brake system failure..... although 3rd gear is usual default.

You must scan for codes and remedy the fault/s.

• ABS is Antilock Braking System. Basically it prevents your wheels from locking up and skidding out of control when you stomp on the brakes. On older vehicles you would pump the brakes with your feet manually but with ABS this happens automatically.

• ABS while part of the braking system is not something that would be addressed during a brake job. The ABS sensor are inside the hub. You would need to remove the wheel to access this.

• If your ABS light is going on then you either have a failure in the power feed to your ABS sensor or the ABS an sensor is failing. Your BMW should have an ABS sensor on every hub. On occasion a brake light being out can cause an ABS light to come on the dash but this is a rare occasion.

• To test your ABS sensor you remover the wheel and in the top of the HUB (bearings) you will see the sensor and connector. Remove the connector and check for resistance with a multi meter.

• I'm concerned the dealership could not help. With that light on the should be able to hook a scanner up the the vehicle and see what exactly is wrong and where. You may want to consult a different dealership. You can test things just as easily.

• Hope this helps and thank you for using FixYa.

Regards, Tony

ABS/ASC module is faulty
CLASSIC ABS FAILURE SYMPTOMS:
- Most of the time, the problem is the ABS module or one of the 4 wheel speed sensors (& sometimes the brake pressure sensor)
- In my 2002 BMW E39 DSC, three orange (warning) cluster display lights lit, ABS, Brake, & DSC
- The 3 warning lights reset when the ignition is turned off, only to repeatedly reappear within minutes of normal driving
- The fault is often intermittent leading you to falsely believe you've resolved the problem (proper diagnosis is important)
- Sometimes the fault only appears when the engine is hot; other times only at speeds over 40 mph
- Carsoft may erroneously show a rear speed sensor failure; but just replacing the speed sensor may make no difference.
- All the work is in correct diagnosis of the problem; parts replacement is trivial (from 1 to six bolts in a few minutes)
- Hence, this BMW E39 ABS 3-warning light DIY will concentrate on understanding and diagnosis of the problem

Hi , I wouldnt say that this is a common problem but it is known by bmw , it may be worth booking your car into a bmw agent to get it checked, there may be a charge to check this but you may be able to get this part replaced as a goodwill gesture rather than pay for it yourself , regards mark

Hi, the fog lamp should have a cover surounding it. this will just pull off then you will see a 8mm screw bolt, remove this and the fog lamp should then be able to be removed.