I have to push out the right circle and push in the left side starter to crank it over. What parts am I missing?

The common cause could have faulty ignition switch.use test light to check if power going to starter if not check ignition fuse to starter.if power going to starter, more likely starter solenoid or starter faulty.if ignition fuse okay and starter and solenoid okay still no start problem could be in the ignition switch or inhibitor switch faulty.

Sounds like that pos batt cable faulty

Hey Jon do you have a security light lit on the dash ? There is a starter enable relay that is energized by the pass key decoder module - anti-theft system ! There are more relays under the dash right side, I/P relay center ! My service info shows relays at the back center of engine compartment , these are cooling fan relays -two , A/C compressor relay , maxi fuse relay center an blower motor relay .

If the starter is spinning when you try to start but doesn't spin the engine over then you most likely have teeth missing off the flywheel ring gear. The facts that you say you have to push it and then it starts means the flywheel position changes and the starter has good teeth on the flywheel to engage. To confirm this next time the engine won't crank over remove the starter and look inside at the flywheel for missing flywheel teeth.

in the transmission bell housing, passenger side at about 11o'clock if looking from the front.

it will be located at transmission going from engine side into bell housing in transmission ,not sure wheter it left or right side but thats where it will be
i presume it s an automatic transmission
if it is a stick as you call it you can start on a push

Working on 3.3Liter V6 Nissan Xterra, -Ok Take Neg Cable Off Battery,- Set motor to TDC Compression #1 #1 is front right Cylinder, -Remove Timing Belt, -Remove your timing belt tensior pulley, -Ok The Crankshaft Timing Sprocket take and remove outer spacer ring now take spray wd40 ect..behind gear try to get wd40 work between crank and gear i take hammer and gently knock the great back into the pump then i take crow feet and work the gear forward between the oil pump and the rear spacer ring then spray with wd40 and repeat process now if the lip of the spacer rings bends forward take straighten with vice and hammer, -Now time to drain Motor Oil,- Now Go to your right front Frame and remove 3 19mm head nuts off 19mm bolts from Idler Arm, push tires together Toe In, Watch your center link drop now you can began to remove your oil pan,Remove Starter, Remove the left bracket 14mm bolts and the right starter spacer Take Note: 14mm bolt just above the lowest starter bolt remove starter shim spacer, the 10mm bolts rear of oil pan 1/4 extiension and 1/4 10mm scoket -,The Motor mount 14mm nuts will have to be removed from the right mount almost all the way off your left drivers side mount, lift motor gently off right mount about 1 inch off the mount. Ok Remove Oil Pan From The Motor, Take Note 2 12mm head bolts right / left side of oil pump longest goes into alternator bracket, 4 10mm bolts 1 is hidden Lower right side Pump front now your oil pump will be loose to remove off pull forward to front of truck....I find that pouring Lucas engine oil stabalizer into the pump where oil filter mounts and turn pump until prime and take lithium grease and rub inside of front main crank seal..before installing new pump..!!! Take Note: if the crank sprocket gear is Stubborn I have seen Map Gas and i have seen holes drilled into front of gear, then Tapped and 2 bolt puller to remove the Sprocket but keep in mind your going to replace the pump so you can use a little force to get it to move just keep soaking with penatrating oil get it working back and forth....Hope this helps Oh yes Take Note: The converter Bolt Cover Will come out but the Engine - Transmission Spacer plate Will Stay in Place.I have seen tech take cutoff wheel and cut the engine Transmission Spacer Plate Where Starter Sits In And The left Side And Place it back into place where the bellhousing bolts hold it back in place but you should not have to do this..just thought it intersting...Dyi Nissan Xterra 3.3liter V6 Oil Pump R&R......

FIRING ORDER IS 1 2 3 4 5 6 STANDING IN FRONT VECHICLE CYLINDERS TO THE LEFT SIDE ENGINE FACING YOU ARE 1 3 5 CYLINDERS ON THE RIGHT SIDE FACING YOU IS 2 4 6. NOW DRAW A LARGE CIRCLE TOP OF CIRCLE WRITE NUMBER 1 BOTTOM OF CIRCLE WRITE NUMBER 4 ON LEFT SIDE CIRCLE UNDER NUMBER1 WRITE NUMBERS IS 2 AND 3 ON THE RIGHT SIDE CIRCLE BELOW NUMBER 1 WRITE NUMBER 6 AND 5 THAT CIRCLE YOU DREW IS YOUR DISTRIBUTOR PLUGS LOCATION NOW YOU CAN PLACE PLUGS WIRES FROM DISTRIBUTOR TO THE RIGHT SPARK PLUGS LOCATION TO THE CYLINDER BLOCK.LET ME KNOW HOW IT WORKS OUT.

check that the cables are pushed down and that the connections are very secure. also, check that the cables are on the right posts, some batteries have the positive on the right side, others on the left side, I thought all batteries were positive on right and neg on left, but, found that isn't always the case the hard way while jumping my daughters car. if that doesn't do the trick go to advance auto borrow their obd II tool and get the codes of of your car. all you have to do is give advance auto your drivers license to borrow it free. they will also help you look up the code when you bring the tool back.

there are two and they caused me all kinds of hell when i had my altima. one is center right side of the engine. it looks like a small plug. the other is further down on the left of the engine. it looks almost like a rechargable battery with a circle on the top. they cost me 30 a piece at any foreign parts store.