Car is turning over changed crank angle sensor cam sensor and checked all fuses. no spark or fuel pressure. why?

Why did you replace cam , crank sensor's an the fuel pressure regulator too ? What is or was missing ? fuel or spark ? did you pull a plug wire an check spark . Does the check engine light ,light when the key is turned to the run position ? Do you have a professional type scan tool ? Do diagnostic's ,not guessing an just replacing part's .
056 Engine Hard to Start or No Start Misfire Scan Data
048 Engine Hard to Start or No Start Scan Data for Starting Problems
(55-62 psi) VIN: (V, T,U)
335-375 (48-54 psi) VIN: Z

A "crank, no start" condition is usually because either gas or spark has been lost. You changed the pump, but now you need to verify that gas at the proper pressure is at the engine's fuel rail. You would need a fuel pressure gauge tester for that- Autozone and others loan them, too. Or, do you hear the pump turn on with the key cycled to on, not start? It should turn on for 2 seconds to pressurize the fuel lines and the fuel rail. If it turns on, probably at proper pressure since you have a new pump, but never hurts to check the pressure. If it doesn't turn on for those 2 seconds with key in ON, then you will have to diagnose the fuel pump circuit. Post back for that.
Next thing to check is spark. Buy a simple spark tester at the parts store (real cheap) and hook it up to a spark plug wire, crank the engine over, and watch for a strong blue spark. Good idea to check more than just one plug wire-sometimes a bad coil will lose spark at a particular cylinder. If you have good spark (a blue, snapping spark), then assume the ignition system is good, and so then you would need to verify the injectors are putting gas into the cylinders-post back if you need to test the injector circuit.
If no spark, then the ignition system has a failure-this can be from a bad Ignition Control Module, a bad crank position sensor, or cam position sensor, among other things. Good luck.

I ran into this once when I changed a 2000 engine with a 2001 engine. The crankshaft gear for the timing belt was different. One had 2 ears for the crank angle sensor and one had 4. To check if this is the problem, pull all 4 sparkplugs, hook them to your plug wires, turn the engine over and see if you only have spark to 2 cylinders. If that's what you find then you will need to replace the crankshaft timing belt gear.
If that's not it, and you have spark to all 4 cyls., check your fuses. It could be a fuel pump fuse or ECM or an number of other fuses.
Good luck
Dave

I would focus on coil packs

does it produce fire does the gas pressure rise does the crank sensor and cam sensor work

Check fuel pressure,spark on the ignition coils,signal on the injectors.no pressure,check the fuel filter and the fuel pump.no spark,check fuses,crank sensor,cam sensor.

Free Auto Repair Advice by Professional Mechanics




Troubleshooting / Car Engine Cranks but Will Not Start / Engine Crank But Wont Start 2

* Why does my engine stall at idle?
* How do I change my spark plugs?
* Why does my engine stall?
* Why does the engine stall after replacing the battery?
* Why won't my engine crank over?
* How to retrieve trouble codes
* How to test fuel delivery system
* Engine cranks excessively
* Engine has excessive smoke
* Rapid ticking sounds when engine is cranked
* How to tune up your engine
* How to jump start your engine
* How to test an oxygen sensor
* How to open a car hood
* How a flywheel - flex plate works

Engine Cranks But Will Not Start

For an engine to run, you need three things to happen inside the engine, compression, fuel and ignition, without any one of these components the engine will not run. Follow the repair guide below:


Engine Configuration with Camshaft Operation

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Compression - Engine compression caused by crankshaft rotation and pistons moving up and down inside the engine block. If the timing belt or timing chain fails it will cause the camshaft to become out of correlation with the crankshaft or allow the camshaft to stop rotating. Either of these conditions will cause the engine to lose compression and sometimes cause internal engine damage.
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Fuel Delivery System - The fuel system includes: fuel pump, fuel injectors, pressure regulator, fuel filter and pressure lines. This system is used to supply fuel under pressure to the fuel injection system, the lack of fuel pressure or volume will cause the fuel delivery system to fail and the engine to stall or not start.
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Ignition Spark Delivery System - The ignition system components include: spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor (if applicable), crankshaft angle sensor, camshaft angle sensor, ignition coil, ignition module, knock sensor and PCM (engine control module). The engine relies on the ignition spark to be delivered to the combustion camber at the correct time. If the ignition spark stops or is delivered at the wrong time the engine will not run or run poorly.

If your engine cranks but does not start follow this troubleshooting guide:
* Step 1 - Anytime you have a problem with electronically controlled components such as an engine, transmission, ABS brake, or SRS (supplemental restraint system, Air Bag) inspect all fuses using a test light and check the under hood power distribution center and under dash fuse panels. If all fuses test ok continue to the next step.
* Step 2 - To check for problems with electronically controlled components such as an engine, transmission, ABS brake, or SRS (supplemental restraint system, Air Bag) and the fuses test ok a trouble code scan is needed to identify any system trouble. Use a simple scanner tool to retrieve trouble codes and see if they relate to the specific problem, like a crank angle sensor failure code. If the trouble code present does not pertain to the immediate problem like an EVAP code ignore it until a later time, after the car is running. The reason we repair non-related codes after the engine is running is because sometime false codes can be triggered by the engine not running. Once the engine is running again the code present might cycle and turn itself off. You might say "if the engine doesn't run shouldn't it have a trouble code?" Sometimes conditions occur that will not be detected by the computer, example: if the fuel pump fails the computer cannot detect the failure, so the engine doesn't start and the computer thinks everything is ok with no codes. If no trouble codes are present proceed to the next step.
* Step 3 - The spark plugs in your engine are used to ignite the compressed fuel air mixture. If the condition of the spark plugs are fouled by excessive fuel or carbon the engine will not start, backfire or run rough. Remove all spark plugs to inspect their condition. Please use this spark plug condition reference guide to see how the spark plugs are operating.
* Step 4 - Determine if the engine has compression, this can be done a number of ways but the most complete method is to perform a compression check. Remove the spark plugs and perform a compression test on one cylinder. If one cylinder has compression then the remaining cylinders usually will be close to the same. Crank the engine over about 5 seconds, normal compression readings should be between 125 psi and 160 psi on each cylinder. If no or little compression exists additional tests will be needed. The most common reason for an engine to lose compression is a timing belt or timing chain failure. If low or no compression exists remove the oil fill cap and observe camshaft rotation when the engine is cranked over. If no rotation exists the timing belt or chain has failed. If your engine has a timing belt and you cannot see the camshaft easily remove the upper bolts to the timing cover and gain visual access to the belt, recheck cam rotation by cranking the engine over. Sometimes a timing belt or chain can jump causing the camshaft to lose correlation with the crankshaft and therefore causing low compression. The best test for this condition is to remove the timing belt/chain cover and inspect timing marks. If the compression is ok proceed to next step.
* Step 5 - Test the ignition system output, ignition systems can vary in configuration but operate on the same principal. Ignition systems can consist of a coil, pick up coil, crank angle sensor, cam angle sensor, spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor cap, ignition rotor and a distributor and any variations of these components. An ignition coil is a voltage stepper coil that transforms a low voltage (12 volts) signal into tens of thousands of volts needed to jump the gap of the spark plug. This coil is activated by an ignition module triggered by using the camshaft/crankshaft angle sensor; timing is adjusted by the ECM (computer).

Hope helps (remember rated and comment this).

most cars have a mass airflow sensor.try reploacing that,That is the only other thing i can think of besides what was already replaced. if this does not work get a compression test done on the car.

Well at its most basic level, any internal combustion engine needs 3 things to run, air, fuel and ignition. You know you have fuel, so that leaves air and ignition. Check for spark first, then check your mass airflow sensor, if thats bad, that could be your problem.

could very well be a faulty sensor, leaky vaccum hose, bad coil packs, needing of new fuel filter, spark plugs, wires.

Have you checked your fuel pressure to make sure it is good. You can do this with fuel pressure tester on the fuel rail.

Also check every cylinder for spark
If you don't have any spark, or very weak spark, you could have bad coil pack, module, or crank sensor.

You can remove one plug at a time, and place it back on plug wire, place it on top of engine block, have someone else turn motor over well you observe to see if there is spark.

Do you have a service or check engine light on? If so, I would have the engine codes read to pinpoint exact problem area.

Let me know if you have any questions or need further help