20 Most Recent 1994 Hyundai Excel Questions & Answers

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If you will buy a Haynes or Chilton aftermarket service manual at an auto parts store (or on line), you can probably locate the switch pretty easy.
I wouldn't advise doing it though; it is one of the better ideas when it comes to safety, otherwise a child could turn the key and create havoc if the car was not in neutral. I can't think of a circumstance when this is an undesirable feature. 

Do you have another key ? Try that one and see what happens. Sounds like your old key fob is not making contact with the pcm.have it cheched out

May have broken on the other end.

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You need to see a locksmith or the dealer.

It sounds to me all you need is to adjust the trunk hatch. Its going out when you hit the brakes so the switch isn't bad. It may be worn but if you can push on it and the light goes out it is the reason your alarm is going off. Make sure there isn't debris under the rubber seal preventing it from fully closing.

it would be better for advisers if you stopped with the local language and used technical terms what do you mean by the hammer is hitting too hard and twisting the gap on the plug where is the far left plug ( what cylinder number ) now technically speaking , plugs will outlast the life of the engine and with electronic engine is seldom the source of a misfire soot on a plug is overfueling and indicates a leaking injector white plugs are running lean and indicate that the injectors for those cylinders are not working so it basically comes down to this ---all of your problems are injector related ( dirty filter replaced ) so possibly using a quality injector cleaner just may fix the problems of idle and plugs if not have the injectors overhauled by an accredited injector shop

try taking it to an exhaust shop and have the cat converter check for failure and blocking the exhaust system

What most people refer to as the "Ignition switch" is really the "cylinder lock", that when turned with the key, operates the actual "ignition switch". The switch causing your problem is inside the steering column, and the column needs to be at least partly disassembled to access it.

I recently had the same problem (Aust Excel 1998).
The panel on the right side of your steering wheel where the dash light dimmer and fog light switches are located, will lever out with a small flat bladed screwdriver. Pull it out gently and position it out of your way.
You will find the flasher can directly behind this panel (within reaching distance) - the can is the square plastic box about 2.5cm square and 4cm tall.
It will release by squeezing the two plastic retaining clips on either side (toward the bottom) and pulling outward.
I recommend you get a genuine (or as close to the manufacturers specifications as possible) replacement (around $35-$50 AUS), these are usually garaunteed and some inferrior replacements don't work (I tried one).
I also found that my original was repairable (sign of repairable was intermittent operation). If you are capable with a soldering iron, disassemble and look for cracks in the solder joints (wobble some components, especially around the bi-metalic strip) - resolder any cracked joints.
Hopefully this should get you out of trouble.

check your coolant level. if ok, probably need new thermostat.

probably needs a rebuild, sounds dangerous.

charge the ac