Can you tightenthe wires st th end of th wire

need to fix wires first

Hi Steve
Connect a 30 Amp fuse onto Battery + (Safety)
Clip a long wire onto the other side of the Fuse.
Run this out to the Rear Window Motor wire.
See if the Motor runs freely without jamming or blowing the fuse.
So... the Motor will be Good or Bad??
Use a 12v test light. Connect one end to Chassis Ground.
Use the sharp pin end to check your wire back to fuse.
Or Start at Fuse.
This should help narrow down where th fault is
Good Luck

Diagnose the no spark first. Check to make sure the crankshaft position sensor is not damaged and is plugged in. Check to make sure the camshaft sensor is also plugged in . Does the car have a RPM gauge? If so, check to see if the needle moves while cranking the engine, this would indicate the crank signal is good. Also, check to make sure the ground wires got attached under the ignition module bracket. The short burst of fuel is not uncommon on an engine that is not running.

you said you tried applying direct voltage to the pump? proceed to remove the fuel tank and check the harness inside for continuity, both wires going to the pump itself. If wires prove to be ok , then proceed to replace pump .

You said you jumped the wires for the pump? Was that at the pump relay?
If you have a voltmeter or test light, keep the jumper wire in place and check for voltage at the fuel tank connector. The pump wire will be gray. With relay out and jumpered there, you should have battery voltage at the fuel tank connector. The key doesn't even have to be on, cause the relay has voltage to it at all times. If you jumpered it right (terminals 87 and 30 on the relay), and no voltage at the tank connector, you have a broken fuel wire somewhere between the relay and the fuel tank.
If you do have voltage at the tank, but the pump still won't work, only two possibilities, a bad pump or the ground for the pump is lost. Check the pump ground first.

1. Open the Fuse box and find out the relay called "ST".

Fuse Box

The Fuse Reference
2. Then you will see the relay label with 1, 2, 3 and 6.

The Start Relay Label With 1236
3. Unplug the relay and then turn the car key to on, ready a wire which both end plastic cover has been cut.

4. Connect both end of the wire to the relay slot 3 and 6. Once the car started then disconnects the wire from the relay.
Unplug The ST Relay And Connect By Using A Wire

The heat shield on the plug wires are there to keep the heat off the wires.I believe they are only on the rear ones.Yes they do come off.They need to be installed on the new ones.There are some special pliers that are for removing the wires but sometimes they ruin the wires.The best way to remove the plug wires is to grab and twist back and forth and out.What happens is the rubber part kind of sticks on the porcelin part of the plug and you have to twist it to break it loose.Hope this helps.Good luck.

check the fuses first then if all are good the issue usually resides within the rubber boot between the door jamb from opening and closing the door causing friction thus causing a brake in the line remove the boot but maby test the switch 1 st then if not working move on to the boot and test for where power exists and where it ends this will be the breaking point and the wire needs to be replaced cut back to power and using a crimping wire connector and a few inches or wire splice into and secure it to a length of the wire and this will most likely solve your issue

It's just an old Chevy starter! On that round starter solenoid, you will see two or three posts. One thick copper post, and one or two small
steel ones. The thick copper post you can't miss. It's about as thick as your little finger. The one, or two, small terminals, (Posts), are the thickness of a ball point pin refill.

You should have the Positive cable that comes down from the battery, connected to the thick post. There should -> also be two or three wires in a small wire loom, that connect to this post. This small wire loom will have a metal round terminal, that has a hole in it, large enough to go over this post. The battery cable goes on first, then this small wire loom terminal. Then a lock washer, and a brass nut.

If you have a solenoid with two small terminals, in the solenoid itself, next to the small posts, you may see -> ST,
and -> R. There should be a single wire, that comes down out of a wiring harness. It will have a round metal terminal end on it, and a hole in it, just large enough to slip over the small post. You want to connect it to the post with -> ST

All that is going on here, is that the solenoid is a magnetic switch.
If it wasn't present, you would have a thick wire, like that battery cable, going up to your ignition key switch. Instead you have a real small wire going to it.

Electricity for other circuits, like the lighting circuit, heat and air circuit, and so on, get their supply from the large solenoid post, also. That's what that two, or three wire, harness is for.

ST stands for Start. This is the Start side of the solenoid. R stands for Resistor. There was a wire used to connect to this small post, and it led up to a resistor mounted on the firewall, of older cars. These cars used a distributor with points in it. A wire went from the resistor over to the distributor.

Your solenoid may not have two small posts. It may just have one, with ST next to it, Or -> S

When you replaced the plugs, are you sure that they were gapped properly? If not, double check that and also whether they seated properly- also put anti-seize compound on the threads in case you failed to the first time. Also check the fit of the plug wires to make sure they attach to the plug properly. When you pull them off you should hear a little popping sound. If the vehicle doesn't idle smoothly, you will need to confirm that you have not put the wrong wire on th wrong plug. Make sure you remove one plug and one wire at a time to avoid this. Check the fit of the plug wire at the distributer end as well.