Check the firing order of the plug wires on the cap you may have a couple in the wrong place or they maybe correct at the cap but not at the plugs.
SOURCE: engine idles rough, misses at 2500-3000 rpm's
i would first check the timing and if that does not fit i would take the cover back off and look at the belt for a bad or missing tooth
SOURCE: I have a 2003 vw passat 2.8L while changing the
The oil in the spark plug may cause the car to run sluggish. The oil may prevent the spark plug from firing correctly or cause you to burn oil. You may want to replace the oil seals around the spark plug holes by removing the valve cover and you should be able to change the oil seals underneath the cover. While at it check the engine for loose wire connections and loose vacuum hoses.
SOURCE: stalling
I am dealing with the same issue. I have had the computer checks and there is nothing to indicate an issue.There were no computer error codes yet I stall at red lights.
The O2 sensor, the speed sensor or the MAP sensor may be one of the problems. The MAP sensor measure the air pressure in the manifold. It is commonly mounted on the fender and is low in cost and easy to replace. To test it if your if your car won't start, unplug the electrical connection from the MAP sensor. If it starts, then you know to replace the MAP sensor. The Hall Effect sensor can fail and not set an error code. This is an inespensive part that sits underneath the rotor in the distributor cap on cars without distributorless ignition. This only applies to cars made after 1996. Also check the fuel injectors and fuel filter.
If you have a burglar alarm, make sure that it is not causing the problem. It often times can cause the stalling issue.
SOURCE: After tune-up and drive couple days, the engine
May want to check your oxygen sensors to make sure they are not shot.
SOURCE: I have a 1993 chev
This diagram is for 1998-1995 Chevy 6 cylinder 4.3L engines.
Your got the firing order exactly correct, at 1-6-5-4-3-2, but here's the thing to double-check:
The distributor rotation is clockwise (note badly rendered arrow in picture).
Since you probably got everything right, then you're left with really unusual/rare causes of
failure of the ignition system:
(a) rotor button misaligned/failing to make contact?
(b) rotor button not pressed onto distributor shaft far enough therefore failing to provide correct
proximity to distributor cap contacts when coil fires
(c) coil wire or contact loose/disconnected - press coil wire firmly down into distributor cap.
(d) distributor shaft of other damage caused during installation of rotor.
(e) spark plug wires defective from factory
(f) spark plugs defective from factory
(g) battery low - may need a charge to start
(h) ICM (ignition control module) failure - hook up your HEI (high energy ignition) tester, and
watch the quality of the spark on each cylinder.
(i) fuel problem? If spark is being properly delivered, its gotta be a fuel problem...
(j) distributor cap not screwed down flush to top of distributor? maybe just on one side?
Inspect the inside of the distributor cap - if there are lots of little metal bits all over the inside
of the distributor cap, then you know you have a misalignment of some type in there, and the
rotor and cap are destroying each other. normal operation will throw a quota of spark-ed off
metal bits inside the distributor cap, but since your cap is brand new, your attempts to start
the engine should have rotated the distributor so few times, you should see no metal debris.
Inspect the distributor cap contacts to see if any spark marks are more of less in the middle
of the cap's proper "contact zone". If not, you've diagnosed an internal misalignment, which
you know how to correct.
63 views
Usually answered in minutes!
×