I have heard that Toyota's are sensitive to off brand brakes. IF you did not use Toyota brake pads, you might need to wait and see if it goes away with time. If not use Toyota pads.
SOURCE: 2004 Toyota Camry Brakes
Raise the vehicle up and remove the rims & tires
Remove the brake pads, and then remove the calipers from the caliper retention brackets, do NOT remove the brake hoses from the calipers.
Remove the caliper retaining brackets from the hub assemblies (2 large bolts on backside of the bracket)
Tap the brake rotors off of the hubs, hit them from the back side of the rotor.
No big mysteries here, this is a very easy job.
SOURCE: 2004 toyota sequoia front end shake
Replace the front rotors.
Refacing does not work on Sequoias. The metal removed to get the rotor "true" is usually below minimum safe thickness, and the vibration comes right back when it gets hot.
SOURCE: 2002 Toyota Sequoia power brake booster % master cylinder are bad
Mr. Clark:
It would be extraordinary for a technician to recommend a booster and a master cylinder with no previous mention from you of a possible problem in this area. In other words, the technician had no business looking at the m/cyl or the booster, unless you told him that your braking was deficient.
Here is what REALLY happened: Somewhere, I'd bet, your brake light came on, and somebody "topped off" the master cylinder, to shut the light off. Now, please understand that the brake fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir DROPS PROPORTIONALLY to the wear of the brake pads. When the tech replaced the front brake pads, he obviously had to squeeze the caliper pistons into the housings to allow the insertion of the new pads. This action forced the brake fluid from the now-compressed caliper pistons BACK into the master cylinder, and it sprayed out from under the cap, coating the cylinder and the booster. Tell that repair service that you do NOT need a booster and a master cylinder, THEY caused the problem with the fluid being everywhere. I am confident that I just saved you a significent amount of money that you do NOT need to spend. Have a great day.
SOURCE: no brakes after changing brake caliper & bleeding system
Sounds like you still have air in your brake lines. Make sure all your brake lines are tight. Then bleed again. Bleed the trouble side first, meaning right side, then go to front left, back left then back right, make sure that your brake fluid is also full
SOURCE: Problem with break caliber and pedal and rotor 99 corolla
you might have a froze caliper piston, he is asking for all of that because whenever you change a caliper out you dont just want to change the caliper but do the brake job while you are there because more than likely the rest of your brakes are worn as well and if you just do the caliper you will damage you brakes more because of uneven wear sometimes a caliper gets locked up from extreme wear on pads past limit, he is actually saving you money in the long run. now as far as price it doesnt take much to change a caliper out, if you pinch off the line hooking directly to that caliper and unhook it along with the two bolts, all you have to do is put the new one in and pump the brakes back up and then bleed them to ensure all air is out of brake system, and depending on make and model, bleed them starting from furthest wheel from master cylinder....in other words you should be able to find a better price cheaper considering they want to replace the rotors instead of resurfacing them so that is alot less time to just replace them it is merily just parts changing, I hope i could help
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So Firestone has done the work on the new front & rear rotors and break pads. I had a buddy just kind of listen to the noise and test drive as well. Noise sounds like the pads are not squeezing rotors are hard enough. Noise happens when foot is on brake pedal and shifting from park to reverse or drive and vice versa.(automatic transmission) The noise is also happening when I lightly take foot off brake to coast. Sounds like the brakes are not releasing fully as the wheel turns. My buddy thinks its air n the break lines but just had firestone do a complete break flush on saturday to see if theta helped. Still makes noise. Or he thinks it could be the calipers not being tight. I will be taking back up to Firestone this week to check out. My buddy told me to ask firestone to see if they bleed the brakes during the flush or not. Also, he soft my brake pedal was a little soft. no leaks what so ever from master cylinder.
new rotors and brake pads on front and back done by firestone. I took the vehicle saturday to get brake flush to see if any air was in brake lines. still making noise. sounds like the brakes are not fully engaged because noise happens when shifting gears from park to to reverse or to drive and vice versa. brake pedal seems a little soft but no leaks from master cylinder. noise is coming from front and back on all 4 wheels. could it be calipers not tight? could they of not bleed brakes when doing a flush? the noise sounds like the brakes are not fully engaged on the rotor and makes a grinding noise when creeping or barely taking foot off pedal. i will be taking back to firestone to get them check out whats going on. anything I should tell them to check from the diagnosis?
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