Vo307upb want to know if it is a 4 bolt or two bolt main motor and horse power

Very easy to find, here are the main specs for the 1st Gen 250 Ninja.
Power output was reported as 37.4 hp @ 11000 rpm and the engine had a 14,000rpm red line. Top speed was around 95 mph. However this model had a fairly short life and only lasted for two years before it was replaced by the 3rd generation of 250cc Ninjas

That is a '89 & up model, I believe it is a 2-bolt. HP is not determined by this number It could be from about 165 to 295. You can pump it up, but don't go too far if it is a 2-bolt.

You can google that number, and find out whatever you wanna know about that motor.

GM has had the 350 CID V-8 with a 4 Bolt main bearing assembly for many years. It is considered the strongest base power-plant to build on...mega horsepower possibilities:)

In 1968 they made 327's with this casting number but they were only 2 bolt main.

Then from 1969 - 1979 they made 350's with this number and they were either 2 or 4 bolt main.

If it's a 4 bolt main, then you know it's a 350.

Your catalitic converter may be clogged

site i use for casting numbers is down at the moment
far as if a camaro motor would work in your truck yes small blocks between trucks and cars the same
there are 2- bolt main blocks
and there are 4-bolt main blocks
2 and 4 bolts are used in cars
and 2 and 4 bolts are used in trucks
main differance between truck motors and car motors are the add ons intake exhaust manifolds
heads the blocks them self are the same
trucks are usally geared lower but that in the tranny and rear end not in the motor
soon as my site comes back up i look up your number for u and give u link to site as well

Well usually they put the 4 bolt mains in trucks,pick ups,station wagons,full size cars......caprice,Impala. If it's the original motor i would say yes it does.If this helps you let me know !!!

what do you mean it has both? either they are 4 ,or they are 2 ....if any of the main brg caps have 4 bolts holding them in, thats a 4 bolt main block. IF the rest of the truck is nice, then its worth it, if its ratty, then no. you may be better off buying a remanufactured engine from a good company that offers a good warranty. remember you will need to replace a lot af parts, water pump, spark plugs, get radiator cleaned, belt, tensioner, motor mounts. ....you want to replace everything you can while the engine is out. plan on $500.00 extra as a buffer.

Anything that is OBD 1 or newer if you want it to be legal, here are the most common options and the basic requirements. 1. B16A2/3: Completely bolt-in Swap, VTEC needs to be wired, SIR II, Hasport shift linkage. Del Sol VTEC for the del sol 2. B18B: Completely bolt-in swap, SIR II, Hasport shift linkage. Del Sol VTEC for the del sol 3. B17A: Completely bolt-in swap, cable-hydro transmission kit(not recommended) or hydraulic b-series transmission, VTEC needs to be wired. 4. B18C1: Completely bolt-in swap, VTEC needs to be wired. 5. B18C5: Completely bolt-in swap, OBD conversion, VTEC needs to be wired. 6. B16B: Completely bolt-in swap, OBD conversion, VTEC needs to be wired. 7. H22A: Mount kit required, Hasport shift linkage, VTEC needs to be wired. 8. B16A: Not recommended! Too much work, more costly compared to B16A2/3's. 9. D16Z6: Completely bolt in, VTEC needs to be wired. 10. D16Y8: Completely bolt in, VTEC needs to be wired. If you want to know more check this out - http://hondaswap.com/swap-articles/en gine-swaps-101-a-29052/