1995 Chevrolet Cavalier Logo
John Spears Posted on Jan 05, 2014
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No brake pressure

I've replaced the front brake pads, front calipers and rotors, as well as a portion of the rear driver side brake line. I've bled all four line twice follow the recommended order (Rear Pass, Rear Drive, Front Pass, Front Drive). There is no sign of air in the lines or master cylinder. While the car is on, there is still no brake pressure at all. During a test run at 25 mph I was forced to use the E-Brake just to stop. What else needs to be checked/replaced??

1 Answer

michaelm6

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  • Expert 81 Answers
  • Posted on Jan 05, 2014
michaelm6
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Joined: Aug 07, 2011
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When you bled the system was fluid coming out the bleeder valves?
Where the bleeder valves closed off with the brake pedal fully depressed?
Is the fluid reservoir cap ok?
Is the master cylinder ok?

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 232 Answers
  • Posted on May 05, 2009

SOURCE: pulsation in brake pedal and rear end hops during braking

What happens is if you have a bad front wheel bearing when you brake that wheel will turn in or out,when this happens it throws the four wheel alignment out and since this is a solid rear axle,it's forcing it to flex on the suspension,wich could cause the rear tires to bite on the outside edge of one tire and the inside edge of the other,thats one possible the other would be that the rear brakes are are not slowing the wheels evenly causing the same issue.I saw this problem with a bad front wheel bearing on a Nissan Pathfinder but not as pronouced due to the independent rear suspension. Check the front wheel bearings,which of course will mean getting the calipers off the rotors,and then check for any movement in the rotor,if there is check the hub nut,if it's loose tighten it and check for play in the rotor if there is still play that's going to be caused by a bad bearing.You can check the braking in the rear with a simple spring scale(like the ones used for fishing),with the wheels removed have someone apply enough pedal pressure to just engage the brakes but still allow movement attach the scale hook to a wheel stud and pull until it starts to move and note how many pounds of pressure it takes to move the hub.If it's uneven chech your adjusters and even them if needed and then retest,if still uneven you'll need to bleed them again.As far as the dark black substance in the fluid I would say you may gotten a contaminent in the fluid.Brake fluid gets kind of a rusty reddish residue when it breaks down.If I missed anything or you need clarification don't hesitate to ask I'm home all day.Hope this helps solve your problem.

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Ned C Cook

  • 3433 Answers
  • Posted on Jun 29, 2009

SOURCE: 1999 Chevy tahoe 2dr Brake shudder intermitant hard pedal.

Previously mentioned proble. Turned out it was the ABS. I'm sorry I can't remember the part name but I believe it was the main distribution module. But, it is the ABS.system for sure

Anonymous

  • 158 Answers
  • Posted on Aug 29, 2009

SOURCE: 00 Chevy EHCU HELP

bleed each separately

Anonymous

  • 43 Answers
  • Posted on Jan 30, 2010

SOURCE: 1999 Chevy Tahoe- Soft Brake Pedal

Try having the dealer flush and bleed your system. It is very hard to bleed ABS systems yourself and have safe brakes that still work afterward. Bleeding non-ABS brakes yourself is easy not the same for ABS brakes. Valving, sensors and what-not require a tech and the correct equipment in my opinion. You do it wrong and you could ruin your ABS system. Do that and see if they firm up. I replaced my brake shoes/pads at the same time all new everything in back, drums/springs everything and new rotors up front. then I had the chevy dealer flush, refill and bleed system. Stiffer pedal and brakes work better. Keep in mind the brakes on 99 Tahoes are inaedequate, require new rotors often, heat up and fade/glaze pads regularly. I replace my pads long before they wear down because they glaze up and start fading early. I'll rough em up once maybe, next time, new ones. Every two brake jobs, new rotors for me. Just how it is. They will stiffen a bit and work better but they will never be awesome brakes. Just how it is on 99 and earlier Tahoes. Hope it helps. Very important to bleed correctly though. I'll bleed my 83 Toyota 4x4 myself but not the Tahoe.

Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on Jul 31, 2010

SOURCE: Brakes are still spongy after changing the pads, one caliper, and master cylinder. bled front brakes.

I just went to Brake Masters this morning and had them replace the Master Cylinder since I was experiencing the pedal very spongy and going to the floor. When they replaced the Master Cylinder and they gave me back the car, the brakes were still spongy and going to the floor. I addressed this to them and they took another look at it, but when I took it for a second time, the brakes were extremely spongy. It was almost like they gave me back my car in worst condition to when I brought it in. Can you help?

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