Adjust the rear brakes up properly
SOURCE: bleed brakes but no pedal
Good! You bled the master cyl. before installation! The proper order of bleeding the lines, is to start with the wheel the greatest distance from the master cylinder. Then work your way to the next greatest distance, and last, the closest wheel. Make sure all air is removed from the lines before you proceed to the next wheel, and frequently check the master cyl. level, because, as I'm sure you know, if you **** in air at the master, you have to start all over again. I'm assuming you don't have a power bleeder, so with a helper do this with car running (make sure it's on safety stands and not going to fall on you!) Pump pedal 3 times, no need to mash the pedal into the floor, just 3 pumps 1/2 way down, hold 3rd pump at half way down level while bleeder is opened, when flow is about to stop at bleeder, close bleeder and repeat til no evidence of any air. Let me know how it goes and if you need any help.
SOURCE: brake pedal dropping to floor
do u have the antilock brake bleeding tool? if not you will need to have the dealer bleed the brakes, the ABS control valve must be electricaly held open to bleed the brakes there of course is a special tool for this.
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SOURCE: 95 sierra k1500 low brake
Sounds like you still have air in the system, you can get a brake bleeder with a one way check valve and put that in a bottle with a little brake fluid then when you pump the brakes it will allow fluid out without having to open and close the caliper fitting. just keep bleeding and I am sure you will get more air out. You might also try back bleeding where you pump brake fluid from the brake calipers to the master cylinder. Many shops do that now as it is more effective.
SOURCE: 1999 Ford E350 van problem:
Good question, on the antilock system is a bleader too and bleade it the same way you bleade the caliper. After all is done adjust the rear brakes, they should have a drag to them.
SOURCE: 1998 frontier 4wd 4 cyl. just replaced front
I think you have a issue with your power brake booster. If you have a solid pedal with the engine off, and while it is running the pedal "goes to the floor" then the booster is the cause. IF the pedal is soft with out the engine running it could be air in the lines. I would try to rebleed the brakes starting with the right rear wheel, then left rear, right front, and finally the left front. Any time brakes are bled you start at the wheel the farthest for the master cyl. and work closer. I hope this helps some.
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