20 Most Recent 2005 Dodge Dakota Questions & Answers

It should never be bone dry. The coolant should be topped up to be between the marks. Did you read the Owner Manual? https://www.manualslib.com/manual/40540/Dodge-2005-Dakota.html?page=315#manual ..

Question edited to add the year make and model. Question moved to model category. Yes as long as the fob has a chip, you can do that. An auto-locksmith will do the whole thing for you. Get a blank key and a fob, cut the key to match the one you have and then reprogram it all. You never want to be down to one key. When you lose that one, your option is the dealership and a new key cut based on the VIN Number. Very expensive. ..

Yes, the lock-up converter solenoid is inside of the trans pan in the valve body.

Those are internal to the transmission and on the valve assembly.

There are probably people who steel them that could help you but I truly think you are out of luck with this one. You are likely going to have to get one programmed by the dealer.

If I remember correctly, it is under the hood on the passenger inner fender well.

Hi there's this website something like reliable-store and it is very amazing for manual for repairing servicing anything someone on fixya recommended it to me and I thank him even today They have full manuals and it's verrrrry cheap and mine I got free in offers 3rd time I bought it, I also had an issue with the file so the girl replaced it in 30 mins there is one website more but i don't remember its name it was 2 years back bitman something link this Try these out brother

Hello u'd need a proper manual for this in my opinion like there are plenty of dealers and online shops that deal in those.. you can get some free at reliable-s tore and it;s actually really illustrative

hello u will find a lot of wiring diagrams and circuit diagrams help books and stuff like this at reliable-store the girl in the chat box can help u instantly... im a frequent buyer there since Im a mechanic so take help from there

Yeah, generic "circuit malfunction" codes, it's a bad solenoid or two or valve body, either of which can be fixed by a HONEST transmission guy with high end diagnostic gear CHEAPER than a new tranny. OR...you can check solenoids yourself as you replace tranny fluid/filter, new fluid and filter did it for me once

You need to pull the senser, and fus and make sure that the connectors are clean. If there is and dirty build up on the contact areas, there will be a power surge or crossfire that will make your 4X4 engage at any moment. aalso, you may think about changing up the internal sensor in the transmission. The internal sensor runs about 150.00-250.00 not including labor. If you are good at doing your own repairs, you wil save the shop labor costs. Good luck. Jeff

sounds like your o2 sensors down at your catalytic convertor, aka your emissions sensors these will do that after thye engine is warm is when the catalytic convertor starts plugging up because of these sensors, its an emission thing that has been installed to control emissions of exhaust ya know fed things, anyway I have a dodge I love them, also no spark plugs they have things called coils, each one is very pricy about 50 bucks a piece, u usually need to change them all not just one I would take it to a muffler shop to have the o2 sensors at the cat replaced even if you have to take them out, unless emissions is required in your state, hope this helps.

I would suggest changing the control head. You should be able to source a used unit from a local salvage yard.

Even with low miles, the truck has some years on it. Is the gas old? If the truck seemed to run fine, I would clear the code and see if it came back. Sometimes these things are just a one-off occurrence. If it continues, I would make sure it isn't running on old gas (if the truck has been sitting a while), then check the spark plugs, and go with the usual tune-up items.

I am not familiar with the model but from your description it is a common rail diesel. You omitted to mention whether it is direct injection or indirect. Given if the engine and cold start and injection equipment are all serviceable the engine would spring into life on all cylinders almost simultaneously. Assuming the injection equipment and the cold start is serviceable, the only thing that will then prevent a cylinder firing is an engine problem, namely a lack of compression. It would be interesting to know if the misfire is always the same cylinders and if those are on the same bank? If the engine is an indirect type the cylinders are particularly sensitive and prone to not starting if things aren't perfect or almost perfect. The heat loss from this design is great and so a cold start aid is necessary even in relatively mild weather. Direct injection is much more forgiving and tolerant of imperfections and good examples will start well down to freezing point without aid from a cold start. A compression test and a cylinder efficiency test on a cold engine would indicate the condition of the cylinders and if they are found to be equal within a very small margin it can be assumed the problem lies elsewhere and the fuel and cold start systems should be revisited. There is incidentally, a condition known as tappet jacking. With a cold engine the oil pressure can be abnormally high during and after starting so it is possible for the hydraulic lifters to jack the valves from the seats if the springs are just a little weak. Conversely while an engine stands overnight the valve spring pressure on those valves left open when the engine stops can squeeze the oil from the lifters so on starting those valves open significantly less than the others. While not exactly causing a misfire it does result in a cylinder that is temporarily producing less power. This condition does not always produce the expected noise and it can take a significant amount of time to rectify itself. Food for thought...

Does the transfer case actuator motor move at all?