Engine knocking noise

Piston noise makes a noise that goes away when the engine warms most times, rod knocks get much louder as the engine is loaded, Keep driving it and see what blows? Have you checked the oil pressure with a mechanical gage?

Knock Sensor contains no moving parts and can not make any noise. It only detects noise in the engine block to allow the engine control computer to make adjustments as needed.

TROUBLESHOOTING ENGINE NOISES
A KNOCKING SOUND IN THE ENGINE IS MOST LIKELY CAUSED BY ONE OF THE FOLLOWING
1. PISTON SLAP: Makes a sharp metallic noise. Idle engine and short out each cylinder plug. The noise will disappear when plug with bad piston is shorted. Noise will also disappear at acceleration. This can be caused by worn or out of round cylinder, or broken piston ring. Correct problem by re-boring cylinder and/or replacing piston.
2. VALVE NOISE: Makes clicking or rattle noise. Caused by excessive wear on valve stem or lifter, out of adjustment, or stuck valve. Correct by adjusting valve clearance, replace worn valve or lifter, regrind cam, replace valve guide and /or valve. A stuck valve can sometimes be loosened by passing oil through the carburetor while engine is running.

3. ROD BEARING KNOCK: Makes sharp metallic noise similar to a piston slap. Detection is opposite of piston slap. Rod knock is not heard at idle. Knock becomes louder as engine speed is increased. Caused by excessive rod bearing clearance. Correct by adjusting rod bearing clearance to .0015 inches by removing shims. May require re-pouring rod bearing.
4. REAR MAIN BEARING KNOCK: Makes dull knocking or thud noise. Detected at speeds between 20 and 50 MPH. Knock will normally decrease or disappear while pulling or decelerating. Noise will be detected the loudest at normal driving speed, when not pulling or decelerating. Correct by adjusting bearing clearance to .001 to .0015 inches. If knock is excessive, crank should be checked for out of roundness. May need to re-pour all main bearings to correct.
5. TIMING GEAR KNOCK: usually the most difficult to diagnose. If gear is loose or badly worn it will knock in all ranges. Run engine slightly above idle speed. Slowly open and close throttle. Knock will continue to be present, but just as engine slows down knock will become a slight rattle. Remove timing pin and reinsert into timing hole on timing gear cover. Press timing pin tightly against timing gear and accelerate slightly above idle. Knock will significantly be reduced or disappear. Correct by replacing both timing gear and crank gear as a matched set. The two gears should have a backlash clearance of .003 to .004. If more than .009 inch backlash, an oversize (.005) timing gear should be installed.
6. WRIST PIN SLAP: This can not be detected by shorting out the cylinder plugs. Rapidly accelerate and decelerate the engine speed. The engine will pass through a certain speed range when the wrist pin will rattle at about the same pitch as a valve tappet noise. This can be corrected by installing a new wrist pin bushing in the rod or new wrist pin f badly worn. Wrist pin should fit the piston and connecting rod with a tight metal to metal fit. The pin can be pushed into the piston and rod with a slight pressure of the hand. Pin to rod clearance is .0003 to .0005 inches.

A KNOCKING SOUND IN THE ENGINE IS MOST LIKELY CAUSED BY ONE OF THE FOLLOWING
1. PISTON SLAP: Makes a sharp metallic noise. Idle engine and short out each cylinder plug. The noise will disappear when plug with bad piston is shorted. Noise will also disappear at acceleration. This can be caused by worn or out of round cylinder, or broken piston ring. Correct problem by re-boring cylinder and/or replacing piston.
2. VALVE NOISE: Makes clicking or rattle noise. Caused by excessive wear on valve stem or lifter, out of adjustment, or stuck valve. Correct by adjusting valve clearance, replace worn valve or lifter, regrind cam, replace valve guide and /or valve. A stuck valve can sometimes be loosened by passing oil through the carburetor while engine is running.

3. ROD BEARING KNOCK: Makes sharp metallic noise similar to a piston slap. Detection is opposite of piston slap. Rod knock is not heard at idle. Knock becomes louder as engine speed is increased. Caused by excessive rod bearing clearance. Correct by adjusting rod bearing clearance to .0015 inches by removing shims. May require re-pouring rod bearing.
4. REAR MAIN BEARING KNOCK: Makes dull knocking or thud noise. Detected at speeds between 20 and 50 MPH. Knock will normally decrease or disappear while pulling or decelerating. Noise will be detected the loudest at normal driving speed, when not pulling or decelerating. Correct by adjusting bearing clearance to .001 to .0015 inches. If knock is excessive, crank should be checked for out of roundness. May need to re-pour all main bearings to correct.
5. TIMING GEAR KNOCK: usually the most difficult to diagnose. If gear is loose or badly worn it will knock in all ranges. Run engine slightly above idle speed. Slowly open and close throttle. Knock will continue to be present, but just as engine slows down knock will become a slight rattle. Remove timing pin and reinsert into timing hole on timing gear cover. Press timing pin tightly against timing gear and accelerate slightly above idle. Knock will significantly be reduced or disappear. Correct by replacing both timing gear and crank gear as a matched set. The two gears should have a backlash clearance of .003 to .004. If more than .009 inch backlash, an oversize (.005) timing gear should be installed.
6. WRIST PIN SLAP: This can not be detected by shorting out the cylinder plugs. Rapidly accelerate and decelerate the engine speed. The engine will pass through a certain speed range when the wrist pin will rattle at about the same pitch as a valve tappet noise. This can be corrected by installing a new wrist pin bushing in the rod or new wrist pin f badly worn. Wrist pin should fit the piston and connecting rod with a tight metal to metal fit. The pin can be pushed into the piston and rod with a slight pressure of the hand. Pin to rod clearance is .0003 to .0005 inches.

This is hard to say with hearing the noise but try to pin point the noise , is it coming from the top or bottom of the motor , the knocking noise could be a bearing in the lower motor or may be something else making it sound like a bearing,

I have the same car, but my engine makes the knocking noise after I turn it off for about two seconds. Has this happened to anyone else? Dealership says it's normal. All this cars make this noise.

Hello
Has the engine been run low on oil? Does the knocking get louder as the engine warms up? Have you had a automotive technician listen to this noise? Pistons don't really knock, the bearings in the engine called the crankshaft and piston connecting rod bearings do make a loud knocking noise, if that is the case the engine must be removed from the car and rebuilt.

Engine knocking noise is that sound from the engine that sounds like a knock. It is caused when there is an increased metal to metal contact, due to friction n wear of parts n it is mostly associated wid insufficient circulation of engine oil to the engine parts hence increase in friction n the noise. It is a warning to be taken seriously or the engine might finally pack up. This is what we finally refer to as a knocked engine. Sometimes in such extreme cases replacement might be d only solution.

Not related to the O2 sensor. Located on the front of the engine just above the starter KNOCK SENSOR (KS) SYSTEM DESCRIPTION

PURPOSE
The knock sensor (KS) system enables the engine control module (ECM) to control the ignition timing for the best possible performance while protecting the engine from potentially damaging levels of detonation. The ECM uses the KS system to test for abnormal engine noise that may indicate detonation, also known as spark knock.

SENSOR DESCRIPTION
The knock sensor (KS) system uses a flat response 2-wire sensor. The sensor uses piezo-electric crystal technology that produces an AC voltage signal of varying amplitude and frequency based on the engine vibration, or noise, level. The amplitude and frequency are dependant upon the level of knock that the KS detects. The engine control module (ECM) receives the KS signal through a signal circuit. The KS ground is supplied by the ECM through a low reference circuit.

The ECM learns a minimum noise level, or background noise, at idle from the KS and uses calibrated values for the rest of the RPM range. The ECM uses the minimum noise level to calculate a noise channel. A normal KS signal will ride within the noise channel. As engine speed and load change, the noise channel upper and lower parameters will change to accommodate the KS signal, keeping the signal within the channel. In order to determine which cylinders are knocking, the ECM only uses KS signal information when each cylinder is near top dead center (TDC) of the firing stroke. If knock is present, the signal will range outside of the noise channel.

If the ECM has determined that knock is present, it will ****** the ignition timing to attempt to eliminate the knock. The ECM will always try to work back to a zero compensation level, or no spark ******. An abnormal KS signal will stay outside of the noise channel or will not be present. KS diagnostics are calibrated to detect faults with the KS circuitry inside the ECM, the KS wiring, the KS voltage output, or constant noise from an outside influence such as a loose/damaged component or excessive engine mechanical noise.

Well, if the knocking noise is like once a second, it could be a camshaft bearing.
Some engine builders consider a knocking in the engine as a failure in the engine and recommend a rebuild, if economically possible.

How does it drive?