20 Most Recent 2000 Honda Prelude Questions & Answers

see shop not enough info

When chasing most common problems with any vehicle ,it is best to talk with members of the club that runs the vehicle in question In short talk to members in a honda car club

Have the code checked. When the check engine light is on you car is warning you of a problem. Try your local auto parts store and have them pull the

The dipstick should be located to the right of the valve cover and colored yellow. Yours could be missing if you are not immediately spotting it. Try looking for a metal tube no bigger around than a dime that will be heading down to the bottom of the engine.

in the USA, our cars are OBD2 , (you there?) and all scan tools can scan this car. an $9 tool (fleabay) scan it . or get it scanned, then post the DTC codes. all of them. if its EVAP , code, tighten the gas cap, reset the PCM (same tool) and that is not corrected. you can get the zone to scan it but they 1/2 the time miss them all and miss factory codes. buy the tool, or go to any USA ASE certified, shop. and its bees-knees.

check 1st 2nd shift solenoid (lift it of the box check passage way is clear ) use genuine fluid i cant strees this enough (9 years working on hondas taught me ) it works so many problems solved with a simple oil change

A/T or M/T?if A/T slippage or FLARE (or false neutrals) will end the life of this tranny, it will burn up the clutch packs or bands.never allow it to slip. or the damage gets worse fast.

I own a 1999 Honda Prelude base model with a automatic sequential tiptronic trans. If your willing to try a couple of things you might get lucky a save your trans. If my suggestions doesn't help your trans
performance then it time to pull out the pocket book. Drain the trans
fluid. Flush the cooler. Remove the 2 solenoid right by the starter motor. Most likely the 2 metal screens are plugged up. Clean them up with parts cleaner. Then wire the solenoids to a battery so when you spray into them with the parts cleaner you can energize the solenoids while spraying cleaner into the 2 ports. The purpose of this is to free up anything that could be making the solenoids stick. Reassemble the
solenoids back onto the trans. Fill the trans with 3 Qts. of OEM Honda fluid. Run the gears through the gears. Then drain that fluid. Do this one more cycle. On the last fill pour a bootle of Lube Guard Additive to condtion the fluid. Good Luck

The pedal return spring should be checked. Also the pedal bushings where pedal connects to the pedal support up under dash may be worn and not allowing free pedal movement. Work the pedal with your hand and watch the upper mounting of the pedal to see if you can see the problem. I would expect the bushings need replaced. You might try a little light oil where the clutch pedal attaches.

Sound like a n electrical issue, and no you didnt get ripped off...take it back to them and tell them to correct the issue....where you did get ripped off was paying that much for the rebuild...Our shop would have only charged you $2200.00 complete Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/sean_54c3a3dc48a7773c

You needed not pay $4000 for any transaxle,you got taken big timeThey cost about $2500 tops to rebuildThe shop never diagnosed the original issue,new trans needed or not

If you can,go to Autozone,they will scan it for free,takes only a few miutes asnd will tell you what it means.

Have you checked the bulbs?

P0401 is EGR valve, low circulation detected.
P0420 Catalyst system.
P0133 is O2 sensor bank 1 sensor 1.
All these codes are emissions related, so i would start with the EGR valve, it's probably clogged with carbon. The catalytic converter could be also, check that for excessive backpressure. The oxygen sensor can be tested, replace if needed. Good luck, i hope this helps.

Might help if you gave a clue as to whether you are asking about the clutch or the brakes, they both have both. Open the hood and look directly in front of where you push when you push the brake or clutch. Mounted on that wall under the hood you will see two reservoirs, one is master for brake and the other master for clutch. There is a slave for the clutch attached to the bell housing where it attaches to the engine, and each wheel's brake has a slave for the brakes.

Some companies have made a shared master cylinder, so there is some possibility there would be but one master cylinder. You would know that if both systems have failed together.

Hi maryann.

The first thing to check is the battery itself. You should try jump starting the car or replacing the battery with a fully charged one. If that does not work, then you check ignition by verifying that the dash is turning on and that there is voltage to coil; you check if starter motor is running; check sparks, fuel pressure and power to injectors. If all that is OK there is even more testing to be done.

Start by replacing the battery, or jump starting by connecting battery terminals to a different car's battery.If it still does not start, check if starter motor is running. If it runs, check if there is spark by disconnecting spark plug wire and putting the connector near to engine block.

Find someone local to help you doing all that.

Good luck.

Ginko.