My clutch is really soft, i push it all the way to the floor and it doesnt seem to engage fully which makes it where it wont swith gears. when the engine is off i can press the clutch in and change gears easily but once started its extremely difficult
Well, it would shift easily with engine off, because the transmission input shaft is not turning. Engine running and clutch engaging good, the input shaft would again be stationary and allow smooth shifting.
What you have to determine is if the clutch disc or pressure plate is bad (a new clutch is needed), or if the pedal hydraulic system has a malfunction. When you push the pedal down, a rod from the top of pedal pushes into the clutch master cylinder bolted to the firewall under the hood. This cylinder has a reservoir filled with brake fluid. When the rod forces fluid from the clutch master down a steel line and into the clutch slave cylinder down on the transmission bell housing, the hydraulic pressure forces a plunger from the slave cylinder to extend and push the clutch fork lever a small amount, enough to force the clutch release bearing (aka throw-out bearing) against the pressure plate. This relieves pressure on the clutch disc and input shaft becomes stationary for easy shifting.
Rats! hit the wrong button...to continue: check the master cylinder for fluid. If dry, you will have to fill it and bleed the slave cylinder to get air out of the system. You bleed them just like brakes. Now some systems have the slave cylinder inside the bell housing, but remove a rubber observation cover or the lower inspection cover to find the bleeder valve. Sometimes the clutch master cylinder fails internally (seals won't hold pressure) and you get no hydraulic action Sorry this became so rambling and mangled. Either you need a new clutch or you need the hydraulic system checked.
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SOURCE: ac not working
if you by passed the relay and clutch engaged then this shows that pump works ??but was it getting cold on and around the restrictor valve where the pipes enter the cab is normally a valve block but american monsters use a valve in the pipe for cooling and if its not getting cold their or blowing cold inside cab then system needs re-gassing with R 134 gas if its an older system with R 12 gas then it will need to have adaptors fitted to valve connections and refilled with R134 gas.The main cause of A/C system loosing gas is porosity in the rubber flexible pipes also the back seal on the pump.Or just regass and put a leak stopper in the system
SOURCE: New clutch doesn't feel right.
if your sure you have gotten all the air out and all the components ie. clutch, pressure plate ect look to be ok, check the frame work that the clutch pedal is secured from (under the dash).
when they break loose, it causes the pedal to travel to far before the clutch is released all the way.
bill
SOURCE: 1983 chevy s10 2.8 v6. underneath my clutch pedal
Have you got a hole in the floorboards????
It could be something loose in the clutch or just something ricochetting around the bell housing.
SOURCE: overdrive doesnt want to work while its engaged
You need your tranny rebuilt mine did the same thing. you cant just narrow it down to one thing you will have to tear it apart.
SOURCE: 1998 S10,2.2 eng, 5spd trans.
Hi there is no adjustment for a hydraulic clutch at all, when these wear that's when you get the problems, have you tried pumping the peddle really fast to see if that makes any difference? will it act normal for a bit before it looses its pressure? if this does you are getting air into the system, it might not show any signs of leakage to be leaking, try that first, if this does not work, then you have a warn clutch plate or a collapsed pressure plate, do you get any humming noise from the box? a broken or even an ""implanted"" thrust bearing will cause this, ie, the thrust bearing has in-bedded itself into the pressure plate but this is very rare and you get allot of mechanical noise if this happens....but to be honest it sounds like a warn clutch plate...hope this helps
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