I've replaced 3 times. This time it lasted one week. The last one lasted one as well. When pulled out it looked burned. Rich smelling exhaust, will not start at times. Almost acts like its vapor locking or flooding, but are either of those possible with this system? What could cause the downstream sensor to keep burning out?
Interesting.
Are you getting a trouble code for the sensor ?
Under normal conditions the tip inside the exhaust will look burned from the high heat of the exhaust gas, but nothing should be melting.
A fuel injection system can not vapor lock, but a leaking injector can cause the exhaust to be too rich. Same thing if the air filter is clogged up.
Yes code says lean. Tip appears blackened. No visually frayed or corroded wires.
Filter looks good.
New battery. When it doesn't start, it sometimes backfires thru carb
You may have to get professional help. When the sensor tells the computer the mixture is lean, the computer increases on time for the injectors trying to make the sensor go rich. It could be a computer problem.
You might need to watch the sensor every few days after you replace it to see if it is switching back and forth.
With a scanner.
someone told me to put a bottle of heat in gas tank ill see how that works
If I could find the resistance and pin call outs I could check to see what all three sensors that have gone bad read now vs what they're suppose to read. That may help. Yes I've. Gone thru a couple of bad ones that didn't work at all. The crystal is so delicate. But, when they last a week and then go out, idk if that is a defect. I was wondering if the converter is clogged if that could cause them to burn. Computer seems fine. Only thing the scan found was lean in that bank.
Seems to get worse as the weather heats up. Happens more often. Takes about 15 min of bumping and being frustrated then it will start.
I may have missed something here. O2 sensors do not have resistance. They generate their own electricity based on the amount of oxygen in the exhaust gas.
Am I able to read anything with a meter or o scope? Just want to make sure it is the sensor.
Thank you btw for the help!
I've never tried using a meter, just a scanner. The voltage is less than .5 if the gas is lean and up to 1.0 if it is rich.
The operation is the sensor tells the computer the mixture is rich, the computer cuts back on the injector pulse, the sensor goes lean, then the computer makes the injector on time more. The sensor is supposed to switch back and forth several times per minute.
If the sensor gets stuck on lean, the injectors will stay on trying to make it go rich and the engine will load up on fuel. If the sensor stays on lean or rich for more than 60 seconds, the warning light comes on and the computer stops using the signal from the sensor.
Ok, so now the light went out. Then back on the next day. Then it wouldn't start for about ten minutes. Started but ran with light on.
Status update...replaced intake manifold gasket. All codes stopped. It runs great, but still will not start at times. Not as often as before, it this will not, I repeat, NOT throw a code...it just doesn't start. Then, ten minutes or so later, it starts.
You'll have to try to narrow down the options, are you lacking fuel pressure or spark when it fails to start.
sometimes when catalytic converter is clogged it burns spark plugs and it shuts off
had a older car that would not stay on plugs burned out disconnected the catalytic converter just to see if it stayed on and it did so i replaced it
No trouble codes. Had a scan done, said it could be the security system....? Something between the egnition switch and computer.
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Check if the thottle body if it needs cleaning and change type of gas
Testimonial: "Tb is fine, gas is not the issue. The Colorado was designed to run off just about any fuel."
i got 2001 yukon and i changed all my oxigen sensor and mass air flow sensor also egr sensor and changed gas cap and changed gas type from regular to plus then the car is running great now i would like to change fuel pump soon becouse it wines but its still running but im still going to change it
Purchased the nerockies bcm anti theft bypass module. Will install and update. It seems that if it is not the security system, it will be the bcm.
Add a CommentNewrockies
Newrockies module worked! Starts every time!
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SOURCE: the headlight on my 1993 chevolet g20 van keeps
High voltage or vibration will shorten headlight life.
Are you always using the same brand of headlights?
Maybe switching to another brand will extend the headlight life?
SOURCE: ROTOR BURNING UP
The rotor is somehow making direct contact with one or more distributor contacts.
Check the contacts inthe cap to see if you find any physical damage to one or more contacts caused by the rotor.
Could be rotor lead too long (file it down) or maybe the distributor shaft is bent or not seated. Remove cap and observe the distributor shaft as someone cranks the engine. Does it wobble? Can't tell? Place a stiff reference parallel to the shaft and turn engine again.
SOURCE: I recently had my 2005
Hello
make sure that they check all of rubber materials that could be burning which is a number of things, The ac belt could be slipping and getting hot, other hoses could be burning on the exhaust, sound insulation or under coating on the bottom of the car. they need to do just a good thourough inspection, even raise the car up on the lift to make sure nothing is bent, broke,rubbing or missing. The loose hose clamp is not going to smell like burnt rubber, maybe antifreeze but not rubber simply tell them you would like these things checked out they should do that for you
Good luck
Chris
Testimonial: "THANK YOU Guru for knowing where to start looking for rubber burning smell? Chev dealership didn't have a clue???? Your rated 5 thumbs up! The BEST!"
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Yes I do get a light. Code reads that it's running to lean. Mileage increased when new sensor was installed
The tip of sensor appeared blackened
i haved replaced all the oxygen sensor on my car too and it still says bad its bad do they come defect
i have change my airflow sensor and egr modle it stoped it from turning off but the check engine still on i think i have same problem as you did you found out your problem with your car
well made some good progress today i put a bottle of heat in gas tank engine light was still on so i picked me up a gas cap drove car half a block engine light turned off
I've tried both vented and Un vented caps. What code was it giving?
cant remember but i change all the oxygen sensor and it occured to me what was the last time this was changed so i changed it anyway to see if the check engine light goes off then it did
so far so good the last time i posted about my car i haved change the type of gas i was using regular now im using plus it seems my car runs better with plus still i need to clean throttle body but its runing much better
Ok, tightened up the intake manifold, replace gaskets etc., no vacuum leakers, fuel pressure is nominal. Still had intermittent starting. Now it's getting worse. Every other time it just won't start. Almost like vapor locking but with cold engine. Here's a video with sound of the last non start. Nope, it won't load video. Ok, well it always starts after about ten minutes or so. Sometimes backfiring thru the tb. I'll try to post link to YouTube video for anyone interested.
http://youtu.be/OJ0ZkQT6HGY
No engine trouble codes
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