Would a bad serpentine belt on my 2008 Mustang cause my heater to blow cold air sometimes
I started hearing a belt sqeal and thought it was my serpentine belt but my guy friends (I'm a girl) told me my belt looked fine and to change my tensioner. So I changed the tensioner but still have the sqeal sound. Now my heater blows out cold air until I accelerate my speed then blows hot air. My question is 'could it be my serpentine belt causing my heater to act crazy'? Thank you
this ended up with my replacing the 'harmonic balancer' (which I've never heard of) , crank sensor and a new serpintine belt was the solution.this ended up with my replacing the 'harmonic balancer' (which I've never heard of) , crank sensor and a new serpintine belt was the solution.
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Re: would a bad serpentine belt on my 2008 Mustang cause...
If the serpentine belt is original then have it changed as it is probably hard and not gripping properly
it is a reason that the ac compressor will not be at full efficiency , just like power steering not as good as it should be and alternator not charging properly
the inspection of the belt is in the grooved section and it shows minute cracks in the groove ribs then it is overdue for a change
sounds like the air-conditioning expansion valve is probably not working correctly here is a way you can fix your air conditioning:
Realize that auto AC is basically a refrigerator in a weird layout. It's designed to move heat from one place (the inside of your car) to some other place (the outdoors). While a complete discussion of every specific model and component is well outside the scope of this article, this should give you a start on figuring out what the problem might be and either fixing it yourself or talking intelligently to someone you can pay to fix it.
Become familiar with the major components to auto air conditioning:
the compressor, which compresses and circulates the refrigerant in the system
the refrigerant, (on modern cars, usually a substance called R-134a older cars have r-12 freon which is becoming increasingly more expensive and hard to find, and also requires a license to handle) which carries the heat
the condenser, which changes the phase of the refrigerant and expels heat removed from the car
the expansion valve (or orifice tube in some vehicles), which is somewhat of a nozzle and functions to similtaneously drop the pressure of the refrigerant liquid, meter its flow, and atomize it
the evaporator, which transfers heat to the refrigerant from the air blown across it, cooling your car
the receiver/dryer, which functions as a filter for the refrigerant/oil, removing moisture and other contaminants
Understand the air conditioning process: The compressor puts the refrigerant under pressure and sends it to the condensing coils. In your car, these coils are generally in front of the radiator. Compressing a gas makes it quite hot. In the condenser, this added heat and the heat the refrigerant picked up in the evaporator is expelled to the air flowing across it from outside the car. When the refrigerant is cooled to its saturation temperature, it will change phase from a gas back into a liquid (this gives off a bundle of heat known as the "latent heat of vaporization"). The liquid then passes through the expansion valve to the evaporator, the coils inside of your car, where it loses pressure that was added to it in the compressor. This causes some of the liquid to change to a low-pressure gas as it cools the remaining liquid. This two-phase mixture enters the evaporator, and the liquid portion of the refrigerant absorbs the heat from the air across the coil and evaporates. Your car's blower circulates air across the cold evaporator and into the interior. The refrigerant goes back through the cycle again and again.
Check to see if all the R-134a leaks out (meaning there's nothing in the loop to carry away heat). Leaks are easy to spot but not easy to fix without pulling things apart. Most auto-supply stores carry a fluorescent dye that can be added to the system to check for leaks, and it will have instructions for use on the can. If there's a bad enough leak, the system will have no pressure in it at all. Find one of the valve-stem-looking things and CAREFULLY (eye protection recommended) poke a pen in there to try to valve off pressure, and if there IS none, that's the problem.
Make sure the compressor is turning. Start the car, turn on the AC and look under the hood. The AC compressor is generally a pumplike thing off to one side with large rubber and steel hoses going to it. It will not have a filler cap on it, but will often have one or two things that look like the valve stems on a bike tire. The pulley on the front of the compressor exists as an outer pulley and an inner hub which turns when an electric clutch is engaged. If the AC is on and the blower is on, but the center of the pulley is not turning, then the compressor's clutch is not engaging. This could be a bad fuse, a wiring problem, a broken AC switch in your dash, or the system could be low on refrigerant (most systems have a low-pressure safety cutout that will disable the compressor if there isn't enough refrigerant in the system).
Look for other things that can go wrong: bad switches, bad fuses, broken wires, broken fan belt (preventing the pump from turning), or seal failure inside the compressor.
Feel for any cooling at all. If the system cools, but not much, it could just be low pressure, and you can top up the refrigerant. Most auto-supply stores will have a kit to refill a system, and it will come with instructions. Do not overfill! Adding more than the recommended amount of refrigerant will NOT improve performance but actually will decrease performance. In fact, the more expensive automated equipment found at nicer shops actually monitors cooling performance real-time as it adds refrigerant, and when the performance begins to decrease it removes refrigerant until the performance peaks again.
heater cores clog in taurus. way to know is this--engine fully hot--heat on reach down to the fire wall and grab hold of one of the heater hoses where it hooks to the core--one should be real hard to keep hold of because its that hot. If the other is close to the same the core is not clogged. But if the other is cold to the touch its clogged. You can remove the hoses and shoot garden hose water in one side or the other and break it loose usually
first check and see if it has a thermstat installed or stuck open, second, make sure that your heater has not been bypassed by connecting the two hoses together
both hoses is hot signifies thatcoolant circulation is just fine check the blend door actuator it might be stuck.pan the heater temp controller from hot to cold do you feel any change in temp of the air from the blower?if you dont feel any change check the blend door actuator
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If your heater is spraying a light mist through your vents it could be your heater coil. Mine did the same thing, smell rubber burning, then started a light mist through the vents. If you don't get that checked out, it could mess up your water pump and possibly your engine
Hi Chris, sounds like your thermostat may be worn and not closing all the way which would cause your engine to run cool at times. If you have a temp gage it should tell you if the engine is actually warming up or not. If not I would replace the thermostat.
If the serpentine belt broke, the water pump would have also stopped turning, causing coolant to stop flowing...therefore the heater would run cold. Since the belt also turns the alternator, the charging system would also stop working (alt light). Since nothing is flowing through the engine or radiator, the engine will quickly overheat. Since your engine oil also does a bit of cooling as well as lubrication, oil passing through the overheated block will break down and overheat as well. Hopefully the light came on for that before any internal bearing damage was done. Smoke was due to the overheat. Your serpentine belt likely is not covered under a warranty, especially after four years. Hopefully the problem is isolated to just the belt but I do recommend that if you have an automatic transmission you change the fluid in that even if you are not at the change interval recommended. Trans oil is cooled by the cooling system and a severe overheat can chemically change it. Doing a change now will avoid any overheat related trans failure. Since you can't remove all the trans fluid (at best during a change you only remove half) so I recommend using a bottle of lucas trans additive to bolster the remaining fluid. Good luck!!
this could be the serpentine belt at the front of the engine it could be warn and needs replacing, but this could also be the signe of a warn bearing ie idler bearing, waterpump bearing, alternator bearing, power stearing pump bearing, best to get it checked, as a belt is only a few bucks, where as the others could be allot more, should i say will be...hope this helps
I had simaler problem thought it was thermostat turned out to be low coolant check that other wise it somthing to do with your water pump/ pulley/or serpentine belt. Its the only way RPMs can affect your cooling. If you hear a knocking when you get no heat id guess pump otherwise its probably your belt or pulley.
this ended up with my replacing the 'harmonic balancer' (which I've never heard of) , crank sensor and a new serpintine belt was the solution.
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