20 Most Recent 2006 Jeep Commander Questions & Answers

Per Chilton Auto repair manual:

Removal & Installation

1. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
   
2. Remove the rear wheel.
   
3. Siphon a small amount of brake fluid from the master cylinder reservoir.
   
4. Insert a small prybar through the caliper opening and pry the caliper cover (using the outboard brake pad) to bottom the piston in the caliper bore.
   
5. Remove the caliper slide bolts.
   
6. Remove the caliper from the anchor.
   
   WARNING Support the brake caliper with mechanics wire. Do not let the caliper hang by the brake hose.
   
7. Remove the brake pads from the caliper.
   

To install:

1. Install the brake pads onto the caliper.
   
2. Lubricate the slide pin bolts with grease provided with the brake pads, or suitable silicon grease equivalent.
   
3. Install the caliper on the anchor and tighten the slide pin bolts to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).
   
4. Install the rear wheel.
   
5. Lower the vehicle.
   
6. Pump the brake pedal several times until a firm pedal is obtained in order to properly seat the pads.
   
7. Refill the brake fluid reservoir to the proper level.
   

That means the air pressure in your spare tire is low. Check your owners manual for the location of the spare tire and add some air to in it. Or, have a shop add air to it.

The starting issue is the same I had on my 2005 Grand Cherokee. The wire coming from the ignition (key area) to the Starter the connection is bad. The shop replaced the lead and it is perfectly fine... it cost $70. I dont know the techincal terms.. but it was easy to fix- the problem is water and junk gets splashed up by the front tire and corroded the wire into the sarter.... that's all it was.
Good luck.

lock vehicle with either remote or use lock button on door inside car...then goto passenger side door and unlock it with key..this should reset it

mine does the same thing and all you need to do is jump in and start it for it to stop but you go in and staryt meesing with things ist gonna mess up something

Along with the immobiliser the factory alarm can't be disabled - the sounder could be disconnected if you can find it which will make it quieter while it thinks it is being stolen. While it is possible the alarm is faulty, that isn't a big problem with factory alarms and so it is more than possible there is nothing wrong with it because it really does think the car is being stolen, probably because some of the information it is receiving is incorrect. This might be a faulty sensor indicating a door is open or something as simple as a faulty battery cell causing the voltage to drop too fast. I suggest you start by reading the vehicle handbook...

Need more info, is your light on on the dash? Are the brakes working fine?

2006 Jeep Commander 5.7L Hemi, Owner and car-mechanic here...I do not know what engine you've got. But the have Hydraulically-Operated cooling fans on them, run off of the Power Steering system. Mine does not like traffic or idling, she runs cooler at 70-80MPH! You have fan, fan solenoid, and hydraulic lines to the fan.

Was the battery replaced and this occured afterward?

If it's a manual seat mechanism, search for the lever/latch that releases the seat on its track. If power seat, check the fuse for that circuit and work from there.

do you have a rear heater ? if so check for a leak ... or have you done any aftermarket stereo install lately where any wires where run through the firewall, look for any places water can splash threw a hole in the sheetmetal... have seen it many times, all you have to do is have a hole and then drive trough a puddle or two... please rate my help...thanks

can be many things, even bad head gasket. but bad radiator, we use our $15 IR thermo gun , and measure top and bottom of each rad tube, and find the dead ones. in 5min work. or run the rad leak down test, to see head gaskets are good. you never said which engine, Fan works when its over 220f degr. it must or fan is bad, or its controls. (tests with voltmeter easy)

Please be more specific with your question

no it will most likely be a blocked drain pipe that goes into the engine bay from the A/C and drains the condensation created by your car's air conditioner. A mechanic workshop can do a blast of compressed air by your mechanic and free the blockage takes about 30 seconds to do with a car hoist. If it is humid conditions the problem will be much more and you might find the front demister won't work due to water sitting on top of the Air conditioner. It will heat this water and blow steam on your window.

disconnect any wires going into the door undo the door hinge bolts ( have a friend hold the door while you do this have him hold the new door in place while you refit the bolts to the hinges adjust the hinges under the bolts jut fitted until the door locks easily in place reconnect the wires Job time --1/2 hour

Be sure the blend door is not stuck before replacing the blend door actuator. Otherwise the actuators will continue to strip out. Here is a calibration procedure I found that may/may not be useful: Door calibration function for MTC system per Chrysler service manual. 1.Turn the ignition to the ON position. 2.Turn the blower motor control to the OFF position. 3.Press and hold the EBL "rear window defrost" switch down and turn the blower motor control on. Continue to hold the EBL switch down until the EBL status indicator begins flashing, then release the mode switch. While the test / function is running the EBL status indicator will flash once per second. If the test / function passes, the EBL status indicator will stop flashing. If the test / function fails, the A/C and EBL status indicators will flash alternately. While the test is doing it's thing you will hear the doors open and close as it calibrates the system. manual HVAC motor calibration

Sounds like a belt may be slipping or bad water pump. Overheating and loosing heat at lower RPM sounds like your not moving enough water through the cooling system, at higher rpm moving just enough water moving to be happy. Check water level and belt tension check bad thermostat not fully opening at temp then water pump. if it were just overheating I would look at the fan but loosing heat is definitely lack of water through heater core.

pull the switch out use meter to see if you have 12 volts if so try to use a jumper wire on the switch if this works replace switch take switch to electric shop before going to dealer