Zafira 1.6 petrol 4 injectors open when hot

the engine must crank first or you engine can never start.
so is starter failure path only, not the engine.
well the car has an automatic transmission
the PRNDL switches (shifter) allow cranking in park or neutral
so try to key crank the engine in Neutral, as the users guide tells you.
1: battery lugs clean and tight
2: head lamps bright ,key on or key off?
3: dash blower sound good heater blower on high key on/?
4: jumper cable starting work, all tow truck drivers to that and do so safely not backwards and blow things up,.
5: test the battery in shop with load tester
6; charger the battery first before #5 test.
7: replace, starter relay
8: hot wire starter to prove it is good.?

if the 8 things confuse you ,do like 99.9% do, they get the car repaired.(in a shop)

my car can be push started but not yours if A/T box

no engine size told.
well there are like vast causes of this
my engine starts but stalls.
even parked in a drive way , transmission in pARK?
The macro causes are 3. (100 yeas same gas/petrol) rules
bad spark
bad fueling (even bad fuel)
bad engine (cam belt slipped) this fail trumps above.
a tech tests them all in order.(based on age, and miles) saves time.
no miles on car stated 100k 200k, 300k miles or more?
when was the last tune up (filters all, spark and belts)
not told. and matters huge.
does it fail cold and hot engine both, or can never get it hot
hot = means normal engine temp, 180f to 200f
is RPM started up, cold 1500RPM or less (or happens too fast to tell)
does engine die just as you shift to DRIVE.?
failures parked are the most easy to find, (moving fast failures hard)
tell more and get more, tell all things the engine does, in all modes of use. AND WHEN AND HOW LONG IT TOOK TO FAIL.
or hot engines turned off will not staRT (BUT CRANKS FAST)?
THERE IS A STORY HERE BEGGING TO COME OUT BUT DID NOT.

THE MICRO LIST IF CAUSES ARE HUGE.
EVEN a bad wire vast.

how soon after it starts does it stall,
1second 1 hour ? what, ?
some engines fail hot soaked, starts cold, but never hot

WHY NOT GET A SHOP TO FIX IT. IN USA AN ASE SHOP !

Leaky injector

reg codes only work in UK, use real years..... so ROTW can tell.
please, tell what it does good and bad driving, idling , parked, moviing
hot and cold engine, full power from engine on hills.
stalling (it stalls) but when does it stall, under what conditions. hot or cold engine. only at stop lights hot. or>????
when an engine is cold the RPM is very high (iAC device) and it will not stall cold , if it does that is key.
if it never stalls hot. and runs perfect hot say so.
all these, clues build evidence. to what is wrong.
then we do tests.
PS: ever think to get that 60,000 mile (100km) tuneup>> now be it.

To check and add transmission fluid on your Ranger:
1. Drive the vehicle 20 miles (30 km) to reach normal operating temperatures.
2. If driven in hot weather or city traffic, allow transmission to cool for 30 minutes.
3. Engage parking brake, start engine.
4. Press the brake pedal and move the gearshift lever slowly through all gear ranges.
5. Shift to P (Park) and leave the engine running.
6. Remove the dipstick, wipe clean with a dry lint free rag.
7. Install and fully seat the dipstick into the filler tube.
8. Remove dipstick and inspect fluid level. It should be in the cross-hatched area.
9. If necessary, add fluid in 1/2 pint (250 ml) increments through the filler tube until the level is correct at normal operating temperatures.

Additional tips start on page 262 of the Owner's Guide: http://www.motorcraftservice.com/pubs/content/~WOARAN/~MUS~LEN/41/10ranog2e.pdf

no year, no joy, post the year,
and engine size (option)
when parked, moving, hot or cold engine or both.?
ever do the 60k mile tuneup? called the 60,000 miles service points.
open glove box, extract operators guide turn to , maintenance section
bingo.
but in generic form.:
1: engine compression must be good. 150PSI or more. all all cyl.
2: spark good
3: fueling correct.
4: egr not stuck open, (clean it at 60k)
5: ISC not sticking closed , sure clean it too.

ok and XL 7 but what engine options. gas, diesel, 2L , 2.5L?
what?
and most important , and never ever 1 time stated on this forum
what country.
leaping?

im not sure what you are saying.
it runs ok cold, and as it warms , the engine. it stalls.?
and what does same thing mean.?
my guess, it starts fine then stalls; hot.
but can you save the stall?

stalling is complex. can be many systems in the car.
but can be broken down to :
Ever did the 60k mile tune up,ever? if not why not.
never skip 60k\'s or the motor will run like garbage.


1: lost electrical power. to EFI .
2: bad engine, in that when it gets hot , it loses compression.
3: lost park. 1 or more cylinders, 4 or 6 you never said.
4: bad injection. 1 or 6 of them, flooding or starving.
5: bad fuel.
6:EGR sticking , usually this happens just before a stop sign.
7: if the stall was a bog and the fast right foot saved the stall, easy
the ISC is sticking closed.

You may be on the right track, but I doubt it is an injector.
If one of the injectors were leaking the car should run rough when it finally starts and the check engine light would probably come on.
It could have a faulty one way valve in the fuel pump in the tank which would let the fuel pressure leak back into the tank. Could also have a problem with the pump relay.
I would check the fuel pressure with a gauge before and after startup next.

Sounds like you have a small bit of dirt or grit in the fuel system when accelerating it is drawn with enough force to cut off the fuel supply then is released when engine at Idle.
1 run liquid fuel line/injector cleaner in 1 tank
2 check fuel lines for debris
3 change fuel filters
4 have fuel tank flushed
here is trouble shooting order less expense to greater.

It sounds to me like your thermosdate is not opening and it should be replaced.