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Hi meduck4,heres what you need brother as I cant see your diff, 3 ways to tell what you have: #1 The first is the driver's door tag; there will be a
one-letter or one-numeral axle code listed there. You can then compare
it to the chart below:
CODE
Rear Axle Ratio
Conventional
Locking
8
M
2.73
Y
Z
3.08
F
R
3.45
5
E
3.27
6
W
3.73 #2 The second is the axle tag, attached to the lower lefthand bolt on the
rear axle itself. The bottom left line will give you the gear ratio,
and the type of rear end (S for limited slip non-locking, and L for
locking).
#3 The 7.5" rear axle height is shorter than the width and the shape appears "oval". The 8.8" rear axle dimensions are equal and the shape appears "round".
This will tell you what you have my friend,good luck
THIS FORMAT IS A PAIN ONCE MORE MY FRIEND #1 METHOD CHART Code Conventional Diff: 8, Y, F , 5 , 6 Locking Diff : M, Z, R, E , W 8 and M is a 2.73, Y and Z is a 3.08, F and R is a 3.45, 5 and E is a 3.27,6 and W is a 3.73
wow that was a lot of work hope you understand good luck to you if you have any question I would be glad to help
THIS FORMAT IS A PAIN ONCE MORE MY FRIEND #1 METHOD CHART Code Conventional Diff: 8, Y, F , 5 , 6 Locking Diff : M, Z, R, E , W 8 and M is a 2.73, Y and Z is a 3.08, F and R is a 3.45, 5 and E is a 3.27,6 and W is a 3.73
wow that was a lot of work hope you understand good luck to you if you have any question I would be glad to help
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For an F150 code 16 could be 3.50 but I'm not sure about a 1985 truck.
You can always jack up one wheel and count how many times the driveshaft turns for one turn of the tire.
The pining noise you are hearing is detonation in the engine and comes from incorrect air/fuel ratio making the engine run too lean, It is spontaneous combustion occurring before spark and tends to drive the piston back down the bore. It is detrimental to the engine and should be rectified asap. Run fault codes and look for sensor problems. Vin numbers are unlikely to show the gear ratio of the rear end as there are 4 ratios for each model of car. Jack up on side of the rear . count the number of turns the pinion does for each revolution of the wheel . Divide that by 2 ( side gears in diff carrier multiply by 2 when driving one wheel)and you will get the ratio. So 10 revolutions of the tire gives 35.5. revolutions at the pinion equals to 17.5 or a ratio of 1.75: 1 ratio
you need a code scanner.but check make sure you reconnect the VSS sensor electrical connector.when you replace rear end gears did you put back stock parts or did you put in different size gears.because differents size gears will cause different gear ratio set off VSS code.
sounds like the gear ratio is different front and rear,tires all the same size? If you want to check the ratio,just mark a spot on a tire ,roll the truck till the mark goes a full turn while counting the number of times the driveshaft spins,should be the same front and rear.
It is possible, you just have to know what gear ratio you have in your Sierra. I had issues with my son's rear differential and did the Salvage Yard and picked one up for $250.00 with less then 45,000 miles. Remember new cars end up at Salvage Yards also.
Here are the Pro code for the rear ends to your Sierra and you can match one up at a Salvage Yard. GQ1 -- AXLE REAR, STD RATIO
GT4 -- AXLE REAR, 3.73 RATIO
GT5 -- AXLE REAR, 4.10 RATIO
GU4 -- AXLE REAR, 3.08 RATIO
GU5 -- AXLE REAR, 3.23 RATIO
GU6 -- AXLE REAR, 3.42 RATIO
G80 -- AXLE REAR, LIMITED SLIP (POSI TRACTION)
HC4 -- AXLE REAR, 4.56 RATIO
Open Your glove box and look inside it. Should be a list of codes on the bottom. Example: GU6 G80 According to that, you'll have a 3.42 posi
Good luck and keep me posted and call around Salvage Yards, there prices will differ from one to the next salvage yard and don't ask them for a posi rear end. The cost will you more, just search all the SUV's and look at the pro codes in the glove box. Hunt, most awd system SUV will have the G80 rear end.
There is no one stock speedo gear in a Chev. It is dependant on the combination of rear end ratio, transmission and tire size. Each car has the potential to be different. Theyare easily interchangeable. There is a small bolt holding a clamp where the speedo cable goes into the trans. Unbolt it and the speedo gear pops right out and slides off the end of the cable. If your speedometer is too slow put a bigger gear on, too fast needs a smaller one. It's trial and error but I think each tooth difference is 5 MPH, it's been awhile. Hope this helps.
All the rear ends from that model run should fit size wise, and probably older as well as newer body styles. To be sure take a measurement from backing plate to backing plate to be sure. Also measure between your spring brackets. This has to be the same on you replacement rear end unless your are good at cutting and welding. Be sure you have the exact same gear ratio in the new rear end as the old. If the aluminum tag is missing, to be sure you will have to remove the cover and count the teeth on the crown gear and the pinion.This has to be exactly the same as the one you take out or you will need both rear ends in a 4x4. Most scrap yards stock rear ends by gear ratios, not dimensions. Hop this helps.
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