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don burk Posted on Feb 28, 2012

Hi, my1997 dakota with a 3.9 engine has a rough idle, has plenty of power i replaced plugs, wires, cap,pcv, rotor and added fuel cleaner. its a little better but still has a rough idle

Rough idle

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Dan winter

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  • Posted on Jan 03, 2013
Dan winter
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My uncle worked at a dodge dealership as a head mechanic for over 30 years and he also found all of the 3.9 liter engines to have the rough idle. The rough idle cannot be explained but it can be made worse by buildup on the engine. I have a 2001 Dakota sport with the 3.9 and mine does it too and one of the first times i drove it it stalled and its not a Manuel transmission. But onc I changed the oil and put Lucas oil additive as well as regular additives to my gas every month or so it has reduced greatly and not stalled since. Hopefully you find this helpful.

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Anonymous

  • 1861 Answers
  • Posted on Sep 10, 2008

SOURCE: rough ideling

I would recommend, at this point, to take the vehicle to someone who could do what we call an "Induction Cleaning". Dodge engines are noted for deposits forming on the sealing faces of the valves, resulting in poor cumbustion. A compression test might also reveal this. Also, some real good fuel injection cleaner in the fuel tank would also be advised.

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Anonymous

  • 426 Answers
  • Posted on Oct 10, 2008

SOURCE: dadge dAKOTA runs rough at idle

sounds like brake booster is shot Clamp the brake booster rubber vacuum hose and see if that has any affect if it does the booster needs to be replaced.use a g clamp or similar.if you drive to test be aware that you will have to push very hard on the brake pedal to make them work.Also check for an engine vaccum leak

Anonymous

  • 2559 Answers
  • Posted on May 05, 2009

SOURCE: Dodge ram rough cold start idle

Change the EGR valve.

Anonymous

  • 61 Answers
  • Posted on May 05, 2009

SOURCE: how to replace a PCV valve on my 1997 dodge neon?

Once you have the new PCV valve locate the old one on your engine. It will sit on the middle of one of your valve covers (most likely passenger side) and will have a line that connects to the top of the valve. Simply pull the old one out and put the new one in snapping that line on the new one. Should only take about a minute to do. Hope this helps, let me know if it does.

Anonymous

  • 2317 Answers
  • Posted on Jun 03, 2010

SOURCE: rough riding dakota

I would think, most likely the shocks are bad. The springs could be weak, but I would think it would sit a bit low. I'd check the stabilizer links. The vibration could be a bad universal joint in the driveshaft. I'd replace the shocks first.

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Engine doesn't idle - 1996 dodge Dakota sport

I would give the throttle body a goof clean with carb cleaner making sure the butterfly flap gets a clean due to build up or carbon. If it's not closing properly it will idle rough and possibly cut off. Also might be worth checking the idle control valve.unplug it unbolt it take it off a spray the inside with carb cleaner let it dry and replace. Hope this helps
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My 94 Toyota Camry 4 cyl is running really rough and stalling out once the engine warms up

1. Error Code 24. Intake Air Temperature Sensor.
Solution:
Check the following:
- IAT Connector and wiring.
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- Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor.
- ECM.
2. Rough Idling when the engine is hot.
The following are the reasons due to which the engine can perform bad when it is hot.
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VERY ROUGH IDLE NO EXCELERATION

Try a few if these ideas...

Priority Action Part Type Cause
1 Inspect Spark Plug Fouled, Damaged, or Broken Spark Plug(s).
2 Inspect Hose (PCV) Clogged or Collapsed PCV Hoses.
3 Inspect Wireset Worn, Damaged or Faulty Spark Plug Wire(s).
4 Inspect Distributor Worn, Damaged or Faulty Distributor.
5 Inspect Catalytic Converter Clogged or Faulty Catalytic Converter.
6 Inspect Fuel Pump Low Fuel Pressure.
7 Inspect TimingSet Slipped TimingChain or Worn TimingGear(s).
8 Inspect Knock Sensor Improperly Connected or Faulty Knock Sensor.
9 Inspect M.A.P. (Manifold Absolute Pressure) Sensor Faulty M.A.P. Sensor.
10 Inspect Throttle Position Sensor Faulty or Incorrectly Connected Throttle Position Sensor.
11 Inspect Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor Damaged, Loose, or Faulty Mass Air Flow Sensor or Circuit.
12 Inspect Air Cleaner Temperature Sensor Damaged or Faulty Air Cleaner Tempature Sensor.
13 Inspect Fuel Injector Pressure Regulator Faulty Fuel Injector Pressure Regulator.
14 Inspect Piston Ring Set Worn or Broken Piston Rings.
15 Inspect Timing Specification Incorrect Ignition Timing.
16 Inspect Fuel System Pressure Incorrect Fuel Pressure Being Delivered to Carburetor or Fuel Injection System.
17 Inspect Fuel Filter Clogged or Dirty Fuel Filter.
18 Inspect PCV Valve Plugged or Damaged PCV Valve.
19 Inspect Valve Burned, Worn, or Sticking Exhaust Valves.
20 check idle stop solenoid - if faulty, could cause rough idling
21 inspect distributor cap/rotor - if burnt, could cause loss of acceleration
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What are steps in tune-up for dodge dakota 1998 6

replace the air filter,pcv valve and spark plugs if over 60 k and the wires are original replace dist cap rotor and wires also then clean the throttle bore spotless with cab cleaner and a rag scan for any codes and sensors out of range there is no fuel filter (it is part of the fuel pump)
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1994 toyota corolla has a runs rough at idle and lacked power, would stall sometimes at stop. Also has low idle,try timming and new plugs, and checked distriburtor cap and fuel filter and fuel regulator

I have a similar problem with one of my Toyota Corollas. It's a 95 model with the 1.8L engine (7A-FE, automatic). But unlike yours, it has plenty of power while running. Here's what it does. Occasionally the engine misses. Sometimes it will die. This is most likely to happen when you start the car and put it in reverse and start rolling without giving the engine time to adjust. I've been told by some customers that it will die sometimes when coming to a stop. But this has never happened when I drive it. I don't think it's a fuel issue because the car runs just fine when it's running.

Here's what I've tried so far:

  1. Replaced spark plugs and wires.
  2. Used gasoline additive fuel injector cleaner.
  3. Checked air filter.
  4. Checked vacuum hoses for leaks.
  5. Replaced PCV valve and hoses.
  6. Cleaned the air intake and throttle body with carburetor cleaner.
So far there is no change in the problem.

What I plan to do next:
  1. Check the throttle position sensor.
  2. Check the MAF sensor.
  3. Adjust the idle via the set screw.

After that I have no idea what to do next if the problem persists. The check engine light is not on so I don't think there are any error codes. Will let you know.

Frank
Frank's Friendly Cars Maui Car Rental
www.MauiCarRental.biz




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Hi,you can run a fuel presure test to see if the fuel pump is working properly, you can also run a timing chain text ,this is a little complicated but you may be able to do it , take the distribuitor cap off,with a ratchet turn the crankshaft back and faward,if the rotor takes to long to move the chain is worn out,this can cause loss of power, I hope this will help.........
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