20 Most Recent 1995 Mercury Villager Questions & Answers

Your transmission needs repair. Since repairing transmission is not an easy job, ask first the service
center their repair cost, and compare it a new one.
If the repair cost is just 30 to 35% of buying a new one,
Then you may consider the repairing it. Otherwise, your
best option is buying a new one.

have 96, 95 similar

Section 01-19: Bumpers 1996 Villager Workshop Manual
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION Bumper and Bumper Cover Front
Removal

1. Raise and support the vehicle.
   

1. Remove the RH and LH front wheel (1007).
   

1. Remove the RH and LH front fender splash shield screws. Remove the RH and LH front fender splash shields (16102).
   
   
   
   
   

1. Remove the four front fender brace screws.
   
   
   
   
   

1. Remove the two front fender brace nuts.
   

1. Remove the two plastic screws.
   

1. Remove the seven clip buttons located under the front bumper cover (17D957).
   
   
   
   
   

1. Remove the RH and LH front turn signal lamps (13369). Refer to Section 17-01 for the removal procedure.
   

1. Remove the four front bumper cover brace bolts.
   
   
   
   
   

1. Remove the front bumper cover from the vehicle.
   
   
   
   
   

1. Remove the two front turn signal lamp wire harnesses from the front bumper (17757).
   
   
   
   
2. Remove the eight front bumper bolts.

1. Remove the front bumper from the vehicle.
   

The alternator is not charging the battery. Could be a bad connection bugt usually it's the alternator that's bad. The Villager & Quest both turn on the battery light and the brake light when the charging system is not working porperly

What "button" did you replace with a nut and bolt ?

CRC maybe sprayed on latch like https://www.crcindustries.com.au/products/corrosion-protection-and-inhibitors/salt-terminator/lubricants-and-penetrants/high-speed-penetrant

Hi, welcome to FixYa.com my name is Shawn and I will be answering your question.

1. Relieve the fuel system pressure. Refer to the procedure in this section.

1. Disconnect the battery ground cable (14301) .

1. Drain the fuel from the fuel tank (9002) . Refer to the procedure in this section.
   
   Fuel Tank and Related Components

1. Raise and support the vehicle.

1. Remove the two pins from the fuel tank front protector.

1. Remove the three fuel tank front protector bolts and remove the fuel tank front protector.

1. Disconnect the evaporative emission hose (9E325) from the evaporative emission valve (9B593) .

1. NOTE: Label the fuel return line and fuel supply line to ease installation.
   Loosen the fuel return hose clamp and slide it away from the fuel return hose connection.

1. NOTE: Use a rag to prevent fuel from spilling while disconnecting the fuel lines.
   Disconnect the fuel return hose at the fuel tank .

1. Loosen the fuel supply hose clamp and slide it away from the fuel supply hose connection.

1. Disconnect the fuel supply hose at the fuel tank .

1. Disconnect the fuel pump and bracket electrical connector.

1. Loosen the hose clamp from the fuel tank to filler pipe hose (9047) and slide the hose clamp toward the fuel tank .

1. Separate the fuel tank to filler pipe hose from the fuel tank filler pipe (9034) .

1. Place a jack under the fuel tank to support it when the fuel tank support straps are removed.

1. Remove the two fuel tank support strap bolts and allow the fuel tank support straps to hang down.

1. Remove the spring clips from the fuel tank support strap hinges.

1. Remove the fuel tank support strap hinges and remove the fuel tank support straps.

1. NOTE: An assistant may be necessary to remove the fuel tank .
   Lower the fuel tank from the vehicle.

I hope my assistance helped you and resolved your concern, if you need further assistance please ask.

go here for vilager team help.

sounds like distributor going.

http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/villagerquest/

to be reasonable , you have yo give details like make , model year , type of equipment if you want an answer as a guess , an idler / tensioner pulley has come off and the bit sticking out in the remains of the shaft for that pulley

You must pull the transmission out, a task that is best left to pro's

I would double check and make sure that it is not your wiper arms that is the issue. I have seen it before where the pivot hole, where the arm attaches to the transmission, will get worn and the pivot will just swivel in the hole.

If this vehicle uses a distributor I would check the cap.

mcdevito75 her, My immediate thought is a dead or weak battery, but it could be a bad starter also, here"s what to do, inside the car turn the key 1 notch to the on position, note the dash lights, now turn the key to start and note the dash lights again, do they go dim?? if they do you most likely have a weak battery, if the dash lights do not dim, open the door so the interior light comes on, any interior light, try to start the car, if the interoir light dims, you have a weak battery, if it does not dim with the key all the way to start, check and clean the battery connections, and suspect a bad starter. Any electrical appliance can go bad very quickly. Also if the battery is2 years old, replace it.

Hi Tyler: Try using a mechanics stethescope (or a dowel sound rod, thumb over end held against your ear) and with the engine running, touch various components. You will hear different sounds, and hopefully be able to isolate the whine. CAUTION - Work Safe - moving bits can make the sound rod hurt you. I'd be guessing at an alternator bearing as they whine worse than a puppy on the wrong side of a door. Cheers

use a volt meter at the batery, check the input with the the car at idle. then check again at 1500 rpm. If the volts go any higher than 13.7 then your alt. is getting ready to go & the overcharge is what makes the lights flicker

You don't need them. Replace all of them. Keep them close to the frame. Not under the gas tank. Start at the front and work your way back. I recommend you replace the brake hoses also.

I had the same problem. New plugs, wires, fuel filter, air filter, MASS airflow sensor cleaned and still it would hesitate. It seemed to get worse when warm. Sunday I fixed the problem. Take the distributor cap and rotor off. Under the rotor there is a metal plate held on by two screws. Take the plate off, this will expose the optical Cam sensor. I took a can of MASS airflow cleaner (Plastic safe)(can buy at advanced auto parts) and sprayed heavily. Once it was dry I put it all back together and it runs like new.

The Code shows Bank 1 Sensor 3 for the O2 system. That the wire going to that part is broken or disconnected.

Put key in the ignition,take it out of park and into neutral,wait few seconds,put it back into park and should start up.

The Expert is correct for most situations, gravity bleeding is one method. The problem may be that the safety feature which engages diagonal braking with a floating valve, requires the valve to re-center itself to allow for 4 wheel braking. Sometimes this is a stubborn process. The prescribed method for bleeding is to start with the longest line first and then work yourself forward to the shortest brake line. If you have the money to spend, a vacuum hand pump with a brake fluid cup attachment is a handy tool. It will have additional uses in testing anything Vacuum operated that you wish to check in later years. This method is a draw method versus gravity or pressure/power bleed method. I like the draw method because you can see "air foam" and contaminants leave the system and get a crystal clear flow from the brakes. Properly and patiently done, this method is cleaner and can keep you garage floor clean if that matters to you.