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If it is like the 1990, the jamb switch is located at the FRONT of the door jamb between the two hinges, and is accessible by removing the adjacent kick panel. the rubber (if present, otherwise just the collar) unscrews, and the switch can be pulled out from the kick panel side (towards the front of the car). There is a standard Ford plug harness on the back of the switch. Just FYI, the switches do not normally simply fail. They become corroded internally, and either stick or become intermittent. If the switch is flaky or stuck, just spray WD-40 into it from the door jamb side and push it in and out manually a few times. Normally, it will regain full function with no further effort! I've restored MANY "failed" door jamb switches in this way, and never had to mess with them again.
The door jamb is built into the door latch, that's why you don't see the old style door jamb switch. The door lock is also built into the latch. May have other issues with the door locks.
Get to the bottom of this, the next step is a circuit hot when you do not want it.
Most of these issues happen in the door jamb. Are all of the switches looking non damaged? disconnect the switches one by one to eliminate them.
Move the bundle in the door jamb and see if you can affect the issue. There are no successul repairs in this area, replace at least the entire run throught the jamb, but ideally the whole loom that you have to get to replace the jamb portion.
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