20 Most Recent 1994 Toyota Land Cruiser - Page 8 Questions & Answers

you were experiencing that because you have upgraded your tires. use factory tire size recommended. otherwise, u have to install additional sway bars to hold in place your tires to the steering wheel.

you need to refill your ac with refrigerant R-134a. the refill system is usually avaible at any part store. it has instructions and it's easy to use

either tighten or change the belt if it looks damaged. a burnt bearing could be at fault, with the old belt on, mix some liquid soap with water, keep your face away or wear goggles, and pour the mix onto the belt at the pulleys like the alternator one, and you will find out that it stops squealing and you have found the source of the sound. fix whatever is broken and you won't have to raise you radio as much when you drive.
Enjoy !

how do I change my 1994 toyota land cruiser front wheel bearings?

Low oil, bad sensor, really low idle.
First check oil level.
then if oil level is ok, and oil light is still there, pay attention to idle has to be 750 to 850 RPM.

If idle ok, give gas to increase idle to more than 2000 rpm if light goes away you need a sensor called OIL PRESSURE SWITCH. If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/flavio_517b938f50183b92

Turn your steering wheel left or right side. If it moves, then good for you as the key will not be stuck anymore. But if doesn't, it probably means that locking system in the steering wheel is damaged. For this, you can just turn the steering wheel opposite to the direction of the car wheels. Most of the time, cars are turned off with the wheels turned on the opposite directions, which makes the key get stuck in the ignition due to pressure in the steering wheel. When the pressure is released from the steering column, a click can be heard and key is released.

If no luck, there might be a problem with shifter mechanism, which means that you have a trip to the repair shop in store for you. Get this problem addressed immediately, as it could mean that your shift interlock is out of order, which can increase the chances of deploying the air bag up in your face, causing a serious injury.

If this only happens when it's damp out, chances are your spark plug wires are arcing. When was the last time they were replaced? If they're factory wires, they'll be marked with the year they were made on the wires. Usually these won't last more than 10 years or 100,000 miles.

If they're in question, change the plug wires, spark plugs, distributor cap and rotor.

Replace the engine. I would use a Toyota Remanufactured engine.

if you have never did one before i would get a repair manual.it will give the best way to get started & any tricks to doing the job.also pics I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/kenneth_3efc1f8510674f04

This sounds like you have an idle air control valve fault. When in park and neutral the engine is effectively disengaged from the 'drive' and is therefore not churning transmission fluid. When 'drive is engaged the torque converter is pushing fluid against a static impeller and this take effort from the engine. Ordinarily the ECU should compensate for the extra load imposed on the engine output by increasing the amount of air through the idle air control valve and by increasing the injection cycle by an equivalent amount. The potential good news is that the 'repair' may not cost you very much at all. Remove the air ducting between the air filter box and the throttle. With a cloth and WD40 or carb choke cleaner spray simply clean the throttle body interior of all oily residue. Clean the throttle plate and then rotate with finger pressure and clean as far as you can behind. There are two types of idle air control a) a motor opens the throttle plate by a tiny amount by acting on the end of the throttle plate shaft b) a valve controlled passage leads around the throttle plate which opens fractionally at idle. If your engine is the former type then the interior clean should be enough. If your engine is the latter locate the passageway leading off from the air duct side of the throttle plate and the return passage on the inlet plenum side of the throttle plate. This passageway needs to be clean. The valve that controls the air flow through this passage is held onto the throttle exterior by a couple of bolts and has an electrical connection to it. Disconnect and remove the valve. Clean it thoroughly and then reinstate everything as before. The above should help resolve the issue

Radiator REMOVAL & INSTALLATION CAUTION
When draining coolant, keep in mind that cats and dogs are attracted by ethylene glycol antifreeze, and are quite likely to drink any that is left in an uncovered container or in puddles on the ground. This will prove fatal in sufficient quantity. Always drain coolant into a sealable container. Coolant may be reused unless it is contaminated or several years old. 22R and 22R-E Engines

1. Discharge the A/C system using an approved recovery/recycling machine. Refer to Section 1.
2. Drain the cooling system. Fig. 1: Loosen the petcock and allow the coolant to drain into a suitable container CAUTION
   Never remove the pressure cap while the engine is running or personal injury from scalding hot coolant or steam may result. If possible, wait until the engine has cooled to remove the pressure cap. If this is not possible, wrap a thick cloth around the pressure cap and turn it slowly to the stop. Step back while the pressure is released from the cooling system. When you are sure all the pressure has been released, still using the cloth, turn and remove the cap.
   
3. Remove the engine undercover.
4. Disconnect the reservoir hose and remove the reservoir tank. Fig. 2: Slide the clamp up the overflow hose, then disconnect the hose from the radiator neck
   
5. Disconnect the radiator hoses. Fig. 3: Be careful when disconnecting the lower hose, as some coolant may be left in it
   
6. Remove the fan shrouds.
7. Disconnect the oil cooler lines (automatic transmission). Plug the lines immediately to prevent oil loss.
8. Remove the nuts and bolts holding the radiator. Carefully remove the radiator. Fig. 4: It may be necessary to use a deep socket or an extension to access the retainers Fig. 5: Be careful not to damage the fins when lifting the radiator out WARNING
   Use care not to damage the radiator fins or the cooling fan. To install:
   
9. Installation is the reverse of removal. If replacing with a used radiator or your old one, install a new O-ring onto the petcock.
10. Install the radiator and tighten the mounting bolts. Make certain all the rubber mounts and bushings are present and correctly placed.

3F-E Engine

1. Discharge the air conditioning system using a recovery/recycling machine. Refer to Section 1.
2. Drain the cooling system. CAUTION
   Never remove the pressure cap while the engine is running or personal injury from scalding hot coolant or steam may result. If possible, wait until the engine has cooled to remove the pressure cap. If this is not possible, wrap a thick cloth around the pressure cap and turn it slowly to the stop. Step back while the pressure is released from the cooling system. When you are sure all the pressure has been released, still using the cloth, turn and remove the cap.
   
3. On some models you will need to remove the front turn signal lamp assembly, radiator grille and headlamp doors. Fig. 6: The fan shroud is usually secured by two bolts
   
   
4. Remove the hood lock brace, hood lock, grille center support and grille. Some models need the engine under cover removed.
5. On 1989-90 models you need to remove the battery and battery case.
6. Disconnect the A/C discharge hose and liquid tube. NOTE: Make sure you cap the open fittings immediately to keep moisture from entering the system.
   
7. Remove the condenser.
8. Disconnect the coolant reservoir hose and tank.
9. Remove the radiator hoses.
10. Remove the power steering and air conditioning belts.
11. Remove the fan shroud, fan and the fluid coupling. The alternator belt will need removal also.
12. Disconnect the A/T oil cooler hoses. You will need a suitable container to catch oil which will leak out on removal.
13. Remove the radiator mounting bolts, nuts and then the radiator. To install:
    
14. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. If replacing with a used radiator or your old one, install a new O-ring onto the petcock.
15. Install the radiator and tighten the (A) mounting bolts to 13 ft. lbs. (18 Nm) and (B) bolts to 9 ft. lbs. (12 Nm). Make certain all the rubber mounts and bushings are present and correctly placed. Fig. 7: (A) and (B) bolt locations
    

it is possible BUT you should look at getting hold of a complete drivetrain for the car rather than flywheel backwards,preferably a diesel engine/gearbox/final drive.wreckers would be the place to go.

There is probably a relay somewhere, but i cannot find it in your manual. It could also be the switch on the transmission. If you can find the relay (check in the engine compartment fuse box first), interrogate the relay socket to see if the switch is working. Please see my tip at http://www.fixya.com/cars/r6022358-relay_check . These are generic instructions. If you get stuck or need specific instructions for your car, please get back to me with model, year and engine info.

It is quite possible that the turn signal timer has some erros of a wiring short or a malfunction inthe unit( short )
It can be shorting into the corresponding circuit maybe at the switch point in the cluster control- multi switch or at the timer end of the unit where the switching takes place.
So you will have to remove the connection to the unit to confirm the fault in the first place.
It can be producing a stray signal to the ignition unit or the corresponding circuit that makes it irregular in the circuit.
Please disconnect the trun signal line or the fuse and check.Also please check the turn signal unit, disconnect and check.
If the fault clears off, the remove and check to replace the unit
please respond after checking on

Your Toyota should be in four wheel drive all the time. If you look at your owner's Manual it should give you some options, but you should not be able to take it out of four will drive it should be fulltime four wheel drive. Good luck.

may be the wiring in the ignition switch

It has a timing chain which does not need any scheduled service.