Top 20 1994 Toyota Land Cruiser Questions & Answers

In fuse box engine compartiment

While I lack specific land cruiser knowledge, the starter relay is usually part of the solenoid that sits on top (usually) of the starter motor on modern cars. The job of this solenoid is to slide the starter bendix gear into engagement with the flywheel and apply power to the starter motor, turning the flywheel and starting the engine. The current requirements of the solenoid are modest, compared with the starter, and I doubt a relay is required to engage the solenoid. This solenoid is actually the starter relay, as well as bendix engager. If you can trace the large power lead from the starter motor back to the battery and you find no relay inline, then you do not have one.

Wheel speed sensor may have been damaged. Inspect and run tests at link below. Repair Guides 4 wheel Anti lock Brake System Speed Sensor AutoZone com

Since I have no idea where on this blue ball you are I can't give exact locations, but the bottom line is this, the only way to get the part is to buy a used one, new will not be available anymore due to the age of the vehicle. Many online sites will help you locate a salvage yard that has your part, they are used part locator services, I have used them any times and they work well for finding used parts. I have attached a few links for the locators I found in a quick search on Google. Good luck. 1. Toyota Parts 2. Car Part com Used Auto Parts Market

Test fusible link.

Coolant temp sensor stopped working, check connection at sensor,

around 10-15 psi at idle and around 40-50 psi at 2000 rpms viscosity of the oil in use and the oil temperature will have a variance on the pressures so if it is too low , the first thing to do is to up the viscosity of the oil in use upper pressure is governed by the pressure relief valve in the pump or oil galley check with a mechanical gauge it the gauge has an electronic sender as the sender may be reading low on the pressure gauge

The oil pressure is lower than normal, probably due to worn main and big end bearings. So long as you do not hear knocking from the engine when accelerating, you could just go to an engine oil one grade heavier, eg 20W-50 instead of 10W-40. Eventually though you will need to have the engine overhauled or install a new short motor. .

Hi Steven Do the simple stuff first. Check the obvious points at which the circuit may get shorted. Light Bulbs and sockets. Wires in the boot or rear lamp area. Down the steering column. Follow harness to front then rear. Age of vehicle and how it's used may provide clues. Trailer Connector Wires & Connections to harness. (Where could they Link Together) If that fails You need to isolate each circuit that is blowing a fuse and trace the fault to a location. Probably when you find the fault (ground short or wires shorted together) it will become obvious that the two separate circuits are linked. So... start with the right turn signal Finding Shorts It's a pain.... but.... here's the process! Remove the Fuses that keep blowing. Make up a long lead from the battery positive terminal. Say 4 meters. Add a cheap 5A or 10A circuit breaker in the lead wire. Make a probe tip on the end of wire. (needle, pin. nail) This saves you going through many fuses. The circuit breaker simply resets when it cools. The best way to locate the short is to Note the wire colour code (or use iPhone to take photo). Supply power via the made up jumper & circuit breaker to the suspect circuit wire to prove that it blows the circuit breaker. Then.... split the circuit in two... Half way down the vehicle (say front door step) Lift the plastic trim off and find those colour coded wires. Prove these are the wires by pushing sharp probe through the insulation. Circuit breaker blows.... Cut the wires. Try Rear wires vs Front wires and Determine if the short is in the Front section or the Rear section. Then use the same process over again on the section which is faulty (shorting) Divide in two. until you narrow the short location down. Keep in mind that the short could suddenly disapear if you get close & simply move the section with the bare (shorted) wire which touches the chassis or another wire. Slip some heat shrink tubing over these cut wires and resolder them later. This is better than crimp terminals which may cause problems later. Good Luck AutoReset Circuit Breaker 12v 20A Power Probe PP3LS01 Power Probe III Circuit Tester Kit with Lead Set Red... There are cheaper versions Power Probe PP3LS01 Power Probe III Circuit Tester Kit with Lead Set Red...

I would find the fuse & take it out.

You may have a frozen cable to the actuator, or the actuator itself may be bad. Check also for vacuum leak(s). Peace. God bless.

mayb your diff lock switch was jam even there r free but it still giving signal to meter panel

Please describe the engine code which is printed on the cylinder block or on the chassis plate. For example 2L, 1KZ-T etc. Thanks.

Tune up on it. Could be a bad fuel pump our filter.

Check wiring under/behind the switch chances are it is a "dead short" which is keeping your light on. Look for bare wire(s). Peace. God bless

To bypass the factory security would be difficult or car thieves would have a field day! your best bet would be to get a replacement alarm key fob and disarm the vehicle that way!

sorry no idea without a good look myself ,could be anything giving this problem

I have locked my keys in my cruiser & found this the easiest way to get it open.get a wire coat hanger & straighten it out , make a hook on one end, now slide it down the drivers window between the glass & the rubber seal push it down about a foot or so & turn 90 degrees then slowly pull it up until you feel it grab on the rod that operates the door latch . You will know if you have it as the door button on top will move as you pull the wire up wards to unlatch , it may take a couple of shots , or you may be lucky & get it first go , dont forget to turn the wire back 90 degrees in order to pull it back out. Good Luck Mick

I would first try & move the steering wheel as you are trying to turn the ignition lock , it may take a few tries & also a fair bit of force on the steering wheel . This problem usually occurs with the steering wheel turned , ie the front wheels are not straight.Hope this solves your problem , let me know how you goCheers , Mick

If it's cranking, then the ground wire to the engine block is fine, Lee. It's possible that the little ground wire at the back of the engine, grounding to the body, got damaged, though - that's show up as no interior lights, no dash lights, no idiot lights, and any gauges failing to work. Easy fix, if that's what happened - run a heavy (#6) wire from the battery's negative (-) post to a big screw or bolt somewhere on the body near the battery. But... there may be other issues getting in the way. Go through the standard checks - pull OBD codes from the computer, check fuel pressure & flow rate, check spark, check fuses. It's possible you pinched a wire between the back of the engine & the firewall, or pulled a wire connector loose from something. It DOES have gas, right?