20 Most Recent 1999 Toyota Camry - Page 8 Questions & Answers

bring your registration w/vin and drivers license to the dealer and they can cut you a new key. you have to be the registered owner.

We do not have that info.

You did not specify engine type but code is for bank 1 sensor 2 heater malfunction in your 02 sensor in both cases is the one behind the cat, replace it. good luck

you may have to strip out the roof lining to gain access to the sunroof component if you cant pull the sun visor free , dont keep pressing the power button as could at the least blow the fuse , at worst burn out the motor

This is quite difficult to judge, because struts normally degrade slowly and you don't notice the change. If you look at a strut and it is leaking oil, it is easy to decide it needs replacing. The most popular test method is to bounce one corner of the car and try to judge if it is too bouncy. It may help to compare this with a new car. That is only a gross test though, and may deceive. Another way is to simply replace the struts at one end when they are fairly old, say 50 000 mi at the front (the front struts wear out first). Here is some more info http://www.ebay.com/gds/When-Should-I-Replace-Shocks-and-Struts-/10000000177404877/g.html

I don't know what the other place did but it's almost always the idle air control valve that causes stalling and hard starting, the valve can stick due to excessive carbon deposits, it is located on the bottom of the throttle body, it has to be removed so the IAC valve can be replaced, so if the engine is running normally otherwise with no misfires then replace the IAC valve and clean the throttle body to solve this problem.

Mrs Amanda when you said on pushing the gas pedal is shaking do you mean the whilst accelerating with engine running ( reving) you do receive a shake? or when pushing the pedal you do feel on the pedal with engine off a shake? If it is the first check for any spark plug or spark plug HT Lead not working and cause the engine to shake. If is the second cause then check for your pedal connection cable etc.

You have a wire that is related to your tail lights that is shorting out on the chassis or body of your vehicle. This also includes the front park lights, instrument lights and number plate light. All on the same circuit. Start checking for bare wires around the light units themselves. There will be plugs near the light units Unplug them all and see if it still blows the fuse. If it doesn't then with the lights on start plugging them in one by one while watching to see if they stay on. It's a process of elimination really. I very much doubt if it will be related to the instrument lights so don't worry about them for now. Just do it with the other lights. If it still blows with all the light units unplugged then you have a bare wire somewhere in the loom. Have you had an accident or a ding in the bodywork lately? Check under rear seat where wiring loom goes under the seat for chafing of insulation

You can but it is not needed. Just use a good quality mineral oil SG grade or later.

Go to your local auto parts store and buy some new ones. They will help you put them in. It sounds like you lost the low beams. When the low beams go out the high beams will still work. It just sounds to me like the bulbs are out. if not they shouldn't charge you for the bulbs.

its nex to the brakes http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0xcBGnP1vNY

What is the problem to fix?

Have you checked the tire pressures? Uneven tire pressures can cause issues like this.

first make sure air filter is clean, next check if vac lines are holding vacuum....

Please check the following: - Valve timing - Camshaft Position Sensor. - Wiring and connectors. - Camshaft timing gear assembly - ECM

THe pulse is generated by the crank shaft sensor, then it goes to the ECM, then to the injectors.

You have to narrow it does a little more? Does it crank over and have a good battery? If it does, then is there fuel pressure and spark? Timing belt is also a possibility. Too much to guess about.