20 Most Recent 1999 Toyota Camry - Page 6 Questions & Answers

Bummer deal! You can buy a set of torx heads. Take a cardboard square and press it against the bolt to make an impression to get the right one for sure. You also need a special kind of nut buster spray to soak loose those screws. The egr passage ways all must be clear and free of carbon. The egr may need to be replaced. This sub-system: the egr takes hot exhaust and meters it back into the combustion cycle to cool it down - which has a smog reducing benefit. Products that clean the egr are few. This one listed here will keep your egr clean after cleaning it. hope this helps. http://www.auto-tune-up-and-repair-options.com/egr-problem-solving.html

most ikely in trunk on left side are in kick panel in floor bord may have to pull cover to get to it

Problem related most likely to inlet valve lever at entrance to heater or control lever is broken or lever assembly is damaged and it is not opening and activating heater

post symptoms first then ask a real question, above is HUH? electric windows, which work and which dont and what do they do wrong. that be first.

stock radio, is in the operators guide, lost that. non stock, radio, go to Fujitsu home page, find radio , get manual. easy huh?

This site will help you. It contains a diagram with the crankshaft sensor location. http://www.2carpros.com/questions/toyota-camry-1999-toyota-camry-cold-starting-problem Good luck,

With the sensor ice cold it usually should have .450v/450mv, HOWEVER, does your camry have an AIR FUEL RATIO SENSOR instead of a traditional Oxygen sensor? If so then the 450mv rule no longer applies, and neather does the consistent switching from .200-.800 warm. Air Fuel sensors tend to be frozen (They arent, but kinda look like it at times) around 330mv, and dont move much save a really hard acceleration. They measure amperage not volts, but the scanners arent much help with that and neither are conventional testers. If your car has O2 sensors, then test the signal line unplugged, .450 is OK. By test I mean test the votage, not look at scandata. They arent alwayst he same. If there is 450 but the scanner says 950, Id expect the scanner is reporting more volktage due to a bad ground for the computer or possibly the sensor. You will want to check or augment the grounds are retest(All grounds must show zero volts when the system is ON, and ALSO show zero OHMS when compared to battery negative!). .If there is 950mv on a cold engine that hasnt been started yet with the O2 plugged or unplugged, my 1st recommendation would be visually follow the O2 lead as far as you can and look for any oil intrusion into the harness, repairs (electrical tape, crimp connectors) and check in those areas...check for contact between multiple wires, and check to be sure CORRECT wires were repaired previously and not crossed). If there is no obviously crossed or shorted wires, it is possible there is a rub-thru somewhere, or the PCM itself could have been damaged and actually shorting the sensor circuit. unplugging the PCM and retesting at the O2 sensor plug should then show you ZERO volts. If it still has the 950 with sensor AND computer unplugged, then absolutely you have a short SOMEWHERE. If it goes to zero, unplugged. you may have a problem in the grounds or the PCM or the sensor itself.

Hi Dolores ! by replacing the axle shaft have you changed also the oil seal on the gear box or not? If not surely is the old oil seal and is leaking.

Depends on what you put it in the shop for???
There is a little actuator that bolts in the top/side of the transmission, and then an electric plug is plugged into it... make sure its plugged in////

Check the cold start injector in the air intake is working.

Yes, if you purchase a manual set is will bolt in just the same so long as its the same model and year as they do change from year to year.

Possible wire harness problem inside trunk, common problem or try watching this youtube video to see if your problem could be solved. 1998 Toyota Camry trunk lid light fix If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/michael_2496c4f07ad24453

Check the position of the radiator cap. It must be turned all the way to the right (clockwise) to allow the vent to work properly. If that is not the problem, check the tube that runs from the top of the radiator to the reserve tank to be sure it isn't kinked or plugged.

you may have burned out a fuseable link Alternators now are very sophisticated. Some have resistors, rectifiers, and chips in them that match the vehicles computer code. If the link is buned out you must replace it with another fusable link wire. Apparently there was a short when you wired it and it burned out the link..

Check vaccum hoses. Air leaks are more likely the cause of all those issues.

There may be a torn, missing, or loose door gasket. If you inspect the seal and find torn or missing segments, repair or replace. If the seal is intact, the the most likely cause is a gap in the door seal near the top rear of the door. This happens over time because the door frame can actually get bent slightly outward. It is so little as to not be visible, but you can hear the wind noise. The way to get the noise to stop is to open the door and roll the window all the way down. Then, holding the door firmly, grasp the upper rear corner and pull it inward (toward to the car). A couple of sharp tugs will usually do the trick. I know it sounds silly, but it works. BE SURE TO HAVE THE WINDOW DOWN OR YOU COULD SHATTER THE GLASS! The door frame is quite thin compared to other car body parts and will bow/bend if you pull on it. Start out carefully and if you don't get the results you want, try again with more force.

you will have to call a dealership to find out

are there small air bubbles in coolant overflow tank?

If it is the switch that is bad, you can pull the switch and jumper the contacts to make the window go up, the disconnect the switch to keep people from trying to lower the window. If the motor is bad, you will have to remove the door panel and either manually turn the motor or remove the motor and push the window up. Then replace the motor so it can hold the window closed.

is it overheating? is it running hot? has your hose ruptured of swelled up? if not then its working. replacing it yourself should be quite easy and cost less than $10 for the part if you are worried about it. Probably should have a coolant replacement anyway, since it would be draining out when fixing may as well replace it with new antifreeze.