20 Most Recent 1985 Toyota Corolla 2 Door Questions & Answers

on the carburetor usually on the side

Original Equipment Size: 155/-13

This sounds like there is stuck door or gate that all cars use to switch from heat mode to fresh air or to direct the heat to the floor or windscreen etc but the main one is to prevent the outside cold air from entering the car when it is turned to the heat settings which blows the air over a small radiator device that is hooked up to the cars cooling system and has hot water running through it so that when you need cooler air a gate or door will shut preventing the hot air from blowing out into the car and the same goes for when you want to heat the car the door or gate that lets in the outside air will get shut and the air will be directed over the small radiator that is connected inside the plastic hosing that ducts the air to the different parts of the car ,the doors or gate are mainly controlled by a cable system that is attached to the leavers in the dashboard that give you the option to change the settings and if a cable has slipped off ether end it will not have any effect on the climate control of the car so you will need to start at the unit which is mostly up under the dashboard and inspect it for any cables that are not attached it will help if someone slides the leaver back and forward while you take a look as it will make a little noise so you can pin point the area ,also the cable might still be attached but the door or gate is stuck or jammed and needs to be free

Hi,

Actual timing would depend on what engine is installed in the 1985 Corolla. There are some versions that uses the 4A-GE, 4A-GEC, 4A-C engines. There are even some Asian versions that used the 4K/B engines.

The correct method would be to use timing light, engine analyzer and some other test equipment, However, below is a quick and dirty procedure. Basically, to adjust the distributor timing, you need to:
1. make sure cylinder 1's piston is at firing position/TDC (top dead center);
2. crankshaft pulley's timing mark is between the markings on the engine with numbers on them;
3. unplug the rubber boot of the high tension wire for #1 cylinder;
4. connect to it a spare known good spark plug and allow to touch any metal surface of the engine;
5. slightly loosen the single locking bolt of the distributor stem;
6. turn ignition key to ON but not start;
7. carefully swing the distributor assembly till there is spark in the exposed spark plug;
8. tighten locking bolt.

You may need to readjust the distributor for highest idling RPM with the engine running by simply turning the entire distributor assy.

The timing mark must coincide with the specified advance for whatever engine is used by the Corolla. 8 degrees would be a fair start.

Extreme care when working with engine running; extremely high voltage at the high tension wires, distributor and ignition coil and the fan/belt has been known to catch loose clothing.

Hope this be of initial help/idea. Pls post back how things turned up or should you need additional information.

Good luck and kind regards.

Thank you for using FixYa.

ooops -a -daisy.... fsm real , read it alldata.com. not too many 85 cars on the road. so id get the FSM off fleabay ,i would and covet it.

There is a gear at the end of the distributor that keeps the engine in time. Take out the distributor and see if you can pull out the gear.

1. hope this helps

Here's a few diagrams that might help. This is for a typical Bosch style relay available almost everywhere.

rotor arm.

If you mean how to install timing belt, I'm not sure on your corrolla, but on my old tercel I turned the crank pulley so that cylinder 1 was at its top height (by feeling with a screwdriver in sparkplug hole) then turned valve pulley until first valve was open (with valve cover off) then aligned the timing belt that way. It didn't work. Then I realized that the cylinder has 2 top positions, one for "compress" stroke and one for "push out exhaust", so I turned crank again to bring cylinder one to top height, aligned belt, and it worked, car started.Then I realized that crankshaft pulley had a ''timing mark'' (a kind of little notch) on it and that it aligned perfectly with a mark on engine, just to prove that I had done it right, "by hand".Hope the info helps ya !

YOU HAVE AN EARTHING PROBLEM MOST LIKELY A FAULTY EARTH STRAP BETWEEN THE ENGINE BLOCK AND THE CAR BODY [THIS IS A SEPARATE THICK CABLE OR FLAT BRAIDED CABLE WHICH IS ATTACHED AT ONE END TO THE ENGINE BLOCK - USUALLY ON THE CYLINDER HEAD, AND THE OTHER END ATTACHED TO THE FIREWALL OR CHASSIS RAIL] IF THIS WIRE IS BROKEN OR THE ENDS ARE CORRODED OR LOOSE THEN YOU WILL GETTHE SORT OF SYMPTOMS YOU DESCRIBE.

RUN A NEW CABLE FROM ANY POINT ON THE ENGINE BLOCK TO A PART OF THE BODYWORK AND SEE IF THAT CURES YOUR PROBLEMS

N360

Do you mean the sensor which turns on radiator fan when engine temperature is high?

There is another fuse panel by the passengers foot. I don't have a map for it, but the fuse would say parking lts or inst lts.

Automatic Transmission Fluid - Volume: 2.50QTS. ( 2.4L ) - [Automatic Transmission Fluid DEXRON II] - 1.6L Eng & 1.8L Eng

Manual Transmission Fluid - Volume: 1.80QTS. ( 1.7L ) - [API - GL-4 or GL-5 SAE 75W-90 or 80W-90] - 1.6L Eng & 1.8L Eng

Your harmonic ballancer is shot.
With the engine off , key out of the ignition... grasp the belt that goes down to the engine crank and see if you can make it turn a little ... if you can , you will see that the outside of that bottom most pully turns ... while the crank does not...
Replace the harmonic ballancer with a new unit... ( used ones are 90% junk by the time you get em from a bone yard...)

There is a cut out on the passangers side to access the bolt you need to take out... it is behind the tire , so the tire must be removed to access it...
easy fix ya !