I suggest you have your car checked as soon as possible - while a rattling exhaust isn't desperately urgent it could be the cat breaking up which might later restrict the flow of gases. Most importantly excessively loose timing belts or chains tend to make most noise when the engine is idling. If the noise is being caused by this delay could be very expensive.
P2197 - Lack of HO2S-21 Switch, Sensor Indicates Lean
A Heated Oxygen (HO2S) sensor indicating lean at the end of a test is trying to correct for an over-rich condition. The test fails when the fuel control system no longer detects switching for a calibrated amount of time.
See the possible causes for DTC P2195.
Your washer pump is bad or bad connection. Check for voltage to pump first, if you have voltage, replace pump. Your squirter nozzles could be plugged with wax or polish, use a sewing needle to unplug if necessary.
Is it low air suspension broken let me no if its broken its not cheap to repair me i install coil spring from a 1990 tow car run not as soft but prety close
First you want to make sure the noise is not from wheels, brake or any bearings.
If it is transmission problem- not much we can do with transmission...
Try replacing transmission fluid with generic brand. This will cost around $200: if you DIY you have to drop the pan and replace the gasket and filter; if you let the dealer do it they will charge around $250.
If the noise is still there then you need to decide either sell the car or replace the transmission. Few years ago the dealer quote me around $2800? (2003 Town car) for new a transmission installed with warranty.
Depends on your area...few years ago here in Los Angeles, a black TC was still "hot". I was able to sell my 2003 TC without a working transmission. There are many people here knowing how to fix it for cheaper.
I had bad experience repairing an engine with a small shop. They charge less but the engine did not run well and I had to go back to the shop so many times. I still end up sell the car a year after the repair. I really don't recommend dealing with those issues unless you have a very flexible working schedule.
Bad ciol or module which when you supply outside signal and start car it heats the bad unit enough to run, but when fully cold fails again. Unusual, but possible?
It could be the button, motor, wiring or module being bad. Have it scanned, this will lead to a certain direction. My guess would be the module first, motor second. Both are a pain/ time consuming job..
Most likely because your alternator is not charging , the circuit of a vehicle is designed to show the battery light on if this fault occurs, your local garage can test this quite easily. you will possibly find the car will fail to start soon as the battery is exhausted.
