20 Most Recent Hyundai Motor 2004 Accent - Page 9 Questions & Answers

Take off any hub caps and loosen the lug nuts (just loosen them) with the tire still on the ground it is way easier this way. Jack up the rear and set the car on stands as secure as you can, please be safe. Place chocks under the front wheels to keep it from moving off the stands. Finish removing the lug nuts and remove the rear wheels. Look on the outer edge of your brake drum for a punch slot, it is an oval looking indention in the drum that you punch out to access the rear brake adjusters. If you do not see this punch slot look on the rear back plate for a rubber cap that you can pry out with a screw driver. Inside will be the brake shoes adjusters, you have to back off the adjusters to get the drum off the axel. Once you have backed off the adjusters, you can use a hammer and hitting the drum on the front edge it should come loose now to access the brake shoes. Next work on one side at the time using the other side as your guide remove & replace the shoes . Put it back together.

the right rear quarter panel above the wheel well

the brake light switch may be bad, ck if the brake lights operate. if not could be switch or fuse. if they do operate, could be problem with the locking mechanism insde the shifter.

Turn the directional lever with a twisting motion to turn on the wipers

put a new rear O2 sensor and it fixed it. Only problem you might have is if you have an aftermarket downpipe. If it is Catless then you are going to need some type of tune, opensource, Cobb AP, etc.... Even if it is a high flow cat then you will still need a tune because it will throw a code 75% of the time. If your stock cat is still on then replace your rear O2 sensor and that should fix it. Could be something else but mine was the exact same problem.

115,000 miles is quite a bit for $2900
I would shop around for a lower mileage car if it has a 4cylinder engine

No they just pulled a code and sold you a part. An evaporative emission system is very complicated with valves, solenoids, and lines. Any malfunctioning parts or other leaks in the system will set codes. This MUST be checked by a professional that has access to a smoke machine to look for leaks and test solenoids for proper operation. Guessing will just leave you with an empty wallet.

go to an auto recycler you might find the same color bonnet you need, if you get a new hood you will have to get it painted to match your car

my apologies for delay in getting back to you.only just sorted this.turned out was the little control unit for sun roof causing problem.it is cable tied to the sun roof frame beside the sun roof motor and can only get at it by dropping the head cloth on one side.learned from a hyundi dealer the switches give a lot of bother,now and again the control units do too.many thanks.

yes the blower should more then likely be under the dash on the passanger side of the vehicle if you find it you genraly can remove the cover it may be clogged in the motor/fan however the last time i was in a hyundai i thought the same thing when you turn it up you can only hear the motor our do you feel the air

that's normally how you do it. i would suggest a large pry bar. and wedge it between the axle and the trans case. use a piece of wood against the case

It's true that turbos can't be rebuilt by the average mechanic. There is a lot of close tolerances and special tools required to repair a turbo. They have to be sent to a shop that specializes in that. I'm sorry for the bad news but thats it. Hope this helps.

Sorry for the delay. I am personally going back to answer your unanswered question.
I do not know if you still need the answer, but I am going to answer it in case you still do.
Click on the following direct Link. It has the Timing Belt Diagrams with Marks for the Camshaft and Crankshaft that you will need.

Again my apologies...
Let me know if this helped, or if you have additional information or questions. Feel Free to contact me at FixYa.com!

http://www.2carpros.com/car_repair_information/year/2000/make/hyundai/model/accent/2000_hyundai_accent_timing_belt_diagram_marks.htm

these will just slip over the seats, usually easier to slip over the top first and pull down

Most probable is broken piston rings. Depends on the sound. Broken piston skirt can cause a knock and oil consumption. A hole in the top of the piston can cause oil consumption and a rough running engine. Depends on the size of the hole how bad it might sound and run. In either case the crankcase blowby would be pretty good. pull the oil filler cap off while it is running and see if you get any vapor coming out. Vapor coming out is really bad. not coming out doesnt mean there isn't excess blowby as the engine trys to burn it. Of course these are extremes and it could be more subtle then that. depends on how much oil is consumbed and how serious the sound change is. I wouldnt take any long trips in it at this point.

Use some WD-40. Also a wire wheel to clean off the corrsion. Let the WD-40 soak in.

Have your rear brakes checked...Sounds like they are bad...And also have them check the rear wheel bearing as well..Goodluck...

check ur steering pump

Check engine light means there is something wrong and gives a code to tell repairman the problem. Have it read.