20 Most Recent Hyundai Motor 2004 Accent - Page 7 Questions & Answers

Your Accent has an Evaporative Emissions System which incorporates a valve, called the purge control solenoid valve (PCSV). If/when it sticks open, it will continually/continuously apply a vacuum to the charcoal canister, creating a 'RICH' mixture condition after re-fueling. The charcoal canister absorbs fuel vapors during refueling. The PCSV operates to vaccum/**** those absorbed vapors from the charcoal canister to the engine intake to burn them. This is most likely the cause of what you describe. Go to www.hmaservice.com and register your vehicle by VIN #..
you'll then have access to wiring diagrams, shop manuals,
service bulletins, illustrations, etc.

The warning lamp you described is called the "Check Engine" light.

Have a qualified Hyundai Service Technician properly diagnose your vehicle.

Best advice I can give.

you should beable to access them through your trunk, that is how i did my cra when i had to rewire and id assume most cars have that access to them

This would be an at your own discretion kind of event. Generally, if you need to remove the water pump to service something it is good to replace the water pump tho. Water pumps are prone to leak when you put them back on to many vehicles. This of course doesn't mean it will leak. There are many factors that would contribute to this all the way from the pump being slightly warped to the manner in which it was sealed back on there. I would take into account how many miles are on the pump and how much one costs as well.

Short answer with no details on mileage etc. Just based on assumed miles and age... I would replace this if it wasn't going to hurt me financially. If I was in a pinch and it didn't have to happen I would leave it alone as long as it was running fine.

Access to the tail light cluster should be through panels in the rear corners of the vehicle. Remove the panel and you can remove the tail light cluster to replace the bulbs. This is the position on most sedans, unless, like on pick-ups, the tail light lenses have screws which allow the lenses to be removed to change the bulbs.

P0340 - Cam Timing

SYMPTOMS/CONDITIONS
of a mistimed camshaft system (all must apply):

1. Camshafts have previously been removed from the engine.
2. Engine runs rough.
3. Vehicle sets P0340 (camshaft sensor code).
4. Camshaft sensor has been checked with a known, properly operating camshaft sensor.

CORRECT:
The diagram in the manuals should show the timing marks on both cam gears to be on the blue timing chain links.

It is possible that a sealing washer is a bit outdated but if the pipe ends of the tension does not help to be provided for pump repairs.

change your mass air chamber ... fit new air filter.

OK!.. which is IT?... problem with RADIO or MOTOR?... please be SPECIFIC!

Hello recommend is sae 5w30 is recommended by manufacture

Misfire condition can cause by few items.

1) mis-gap / worn / damaged plug.
One Hyundia and small displacement engine,it can also be loose plug.

2) oil leak / vapor covering the cermaic portion of the plug.

3) clogged air flter. // change interval for small car is 12,000 to 18,000 miles.

4) clogged PCV on // 140,000 or higher mile vehicle

5) worn valve cyclinder // 160,000 miles +

6) worn timing belt with an old water pump //// 140,000 miles+


Please reply with the currrent odomenter reading and recent repair record.

Washer is located in possibly 2 different locations either on drivers side mounted on inner fender or mounted on fire wall.

Was this the same code you had before? Did the plugs get gaped correctly? When replacing the plugs, did you drop the plug into the hole then stick your socket down in there to tighten or did you have a magnetized socket that holds the plug in it? Imagine taking a perfectly gaped spark plug and dropping it tip down, from 4 inches onto a metal table. What does that do to the gap? It closes it. So first, double check your gaps and when installing plugs like this, if you don't have a magnetized socket, use a small rubber tube that will fit over the end of the plug so you can gently lower it down and begin threading it in. Once the threads catch you can pull you tube or hose off. While you have the wires off, check for spark. I use a spark tester made just for this. These are cheap and can be picked up at your local parts store. Looks just like a spark plug but on the side of the plug it has a clip so you can clip it to a ground source, crank the motor over and see if you are getting spark through the wires. If not, you need to check the coil and see if it is putting out spark on all four places. I use a test light for this though not completely accurate as you should be getting 24kv 2kv will light up but not enough to fire. Very rare for this to be the case though. Place the tip of your test light into one hole of the coil and clip the other end of your light to a ground source. Crank the motor over and see if it lights up. If the coil lights up but you get no spark through the wires then the wires are bad. If coil does not light up, either you have a bad coil, position sensor, PCM issue, wiring issue...it can get hairy from here. Assuming you got spark through all wires, your gaps are good and you still have a misfire. Then its time to do a compression test or a leak down test. If your cylinder does not have high enough compression on the compression stroke it will not fire. You can purchase a compression test kit also at your local parts store. Mine cost around $200 bucks but it came from Snap-On. Not sure how much generic ones are. Good Luck

needs some more gas or the expansion valve is going or the compressor ,should hold about 700grms of gas