1993 Honda Accord - Page 8 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

when was the last time you replaced transmission filter and oil? you might want to do it and save your transmission !!

fire the mechanic, yes, he is incompetent. totally.send him back to ASE school. he is a noob, i promise you.my guess, wild and usually wrong, is he put the spark wire back wrong,firing order , ignored.did you bend the valve.an ASE pro, checks compression or does a leak down test (vastly safer the latter) to see if the valve stems were bent.we do that to prevent the dumb mech, caused cascade effect.i skips this check and then cracks pistons or head. boom.it a honda, most are interference enignes. never skip belt changes or use belts of lower quality than Honda or GATES. ever.

you must have lost the operators guide.here is the google search, i find it in 5 seconds. posted now vast times.http://hondatech.info/downloads/Auto/Manuals/Civic/the FSM covers this too , and is free, to download, and posted vast times here, on topic, and pre 2001 civics.search it ?

raw where,tail pipeor injectors leaking on top of intakeor dripping for exhaust flanges.or just black smoke, tell more get more.im done, all 60days honda, done. no empty slots.my anwers are for you and others that know how to search/

old post.there are only 2 choice in lifeyou do ?they do.? you do,. takes training and toolsand the FSM. (got that?)if not, let them do their job.my guess?1: fate or entorpy2: the left something loose or disconnected. bad can happen.

old post in Spanish. google translate saves me.."1992 Honda Accord Transmission works well only 8 blocks and then pulls nomas gets second and third not only changes"ill post in English (you use translator )my answer, ? the key word is 8 blocks.!my guess is the hotter ATF fluid allows all shifting to work right?so change out the pan filter, (or screen as the case may apply)do the 50k mile service on the A/T now. every 50k. or the tranny will not last long.

USA car, not all cars are wired the same. (my answers are USA)ok you lost power to the clock (factory clock?)so check ALL fuses.the clock as about 3 pins.1: ground.2: Park lamp , 12v or less if dash dimmed in park mode.3: power to clock.if ground reads 12v, the ground is openif #3 is not 12v, that feed wire, is dead.the feed wires are called Honda, power distributionthe schematic is free for honda's (use a voltmeter to trace the voltage drop) (cut wires, for alarm or other hacks)freehttp://hondatech.info/downloads/Auto/Manuals/Accord/its there, see the clock pages.

right in front of the thermostat housing, underneath the distributor, you should see a green plug, that should go into the cooling fan swiitch, just be careful of spilling coolant everywhere when you take the switch out

wheel stud s?on call cars, press them out then press them in with , hydra. press.if the question is how to access those parts. that is in the FSMno FSM?are you doing front or rear., why not say so.?are you posted ford quesitons to a honda, forum section, seems so. see blue box above, 1993 Honda Accord , this is very confusing to any helper, please do clairify car .

why not finish the tuneup, spark and air filter.also the EGR valve is a 50k service point.if the EGR sticks open, Just before a stop sign drivingthis is a sure sign of a stall ,by EGR. failure (clean it)my pat gas.so you are really saying, the rpm drops way below normal?at idle , then stalls.but the fast right foot saves the stall?below 400rpm most cars stall. 300 for sure.the CEL will flash on just at or just after the stall. RPM based action it is.and if the stall is easy to save?" is it, super easy,? then the ISC is failing, the idle speed controller.if on the other hand the skipped fuel tune up, its all nasty bad spark then all hope is lost , for ISC and ALL.do the tuneup first, see the list?

Just the lock cylinder.

follow the cable from the battery to where it bolts-probably on the engine close by-unbolt it and reverse order to install new one-cheers Denny

the MC and foot pedal, have an adjustment.the pedal linkage pin, must not be tight. it must have playif there is no play here (the FSM is clear ,read it before guessing at brake service,) if no play here.then the MC piston can not return. if the piston can not return, the release vents are blockedif the vents are blocked, the brakes, lock.dangerous brake jobs. DIY? or id bet it was not an ASE shop.do not ever allow these 2 holes to be blocked,see red arrows. (next time read alldata.com on your car)http://www.fixkick.com/brakes/boost.jpg

I had the same car not to say it s the same thing but my catlinconverter. Was bad plus my throther control was bad also

Check battery first and there is a 100a fusible link in fuse box under the hood that may be bad

check under the steering or glove box compartement or engine bay

You have a fault present in the transmission, you need have it scanned/tested to see what the fault code is that is stored in the memory of the control module and diagnose the code and repair what is found to be at fault. this could require a ****** rebuild in this car when the light flashes.

check for vacuum leaks around the inlet manifold & check the throttle position sensor is adjusted correctly

CHECK THE TIRES REAL GOOD!!!!

it might be your ignition module